2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I had to visit one of the more sketchy towns nearby today...where the majority of residents have teardrop tattoos, the property values are tanked and everybody is illegally packing. I wanted to get in and out as soon as possible so on the way out I juiced up the TST and spun up the turbos up to around 55-60PSI and was sucking up pavement at a rapid rate. Shortly thereafter BOOOOOOM...I heard and felt a hell of a percussion in the truck. It sounded like a 12 gauge was fired right outside my window...and given my location was a distinct possibility. I just knew that I was today's victim of another shooting in that town. I finally unpuckered enough to notice …

I'm looking for oppinions, which guage would be the best all around? AutoMeter Ultra Lite Digital # 6545 or AutoMeter Ultra Lite Electric/ Needle #4344 I am looking for the most accurate and easy to read. Any oppinions will be appreciated, Kerley

So I been having trouble with rear brakes (DRUM) real sensitive you just touch and you can feel them grab, rain, gravel road you got to baby them. Its like the pedal is right there at the top supplying rear brakes before the front disc. Well I installed new injectors and noticed oil leak under boost. Can this be the cause of rear brakes being so touchy?

Just finished up my fummins build and aside from the torque converter not locking up and my map sensor saying I have 12psi at idle everything is fine lol. However on my drives to work at around 30-40 mph the truck has a slight bucking or chugging that's not terrible but enough to be an annoyance. It goes away as I accelerate a little but if i'm just cruising along at those speeds its pretty constant. If i increase my power level to one of the higher settings on my quadzilla its less noticeable. Any ides what could be causing this? I have done and custom calibrations to the V2 quadzilla tunes, they are the basic tunes that are preloaded.

Both sides are loose. Drivers side lifts right out. Passenger side is stuck. Trying to lift engine to pull the pan.

Hey guys, I had a problem come up on my 99 on Friday. I came out to start the truck after it sitting for maybe 4 days to go dirtbike riding and the truck started at first, I moved it to the spot I load my bike and then the truck wouldn't start when I went to leave. I watched some videos and did some reading and got the truck to start by unplugging and re plugging the connector right out of the fuse box with a single brown wire. No loose battery connections and just looking around I couldnt find any loose grounds anywhere. I took the truck and it was fine the rest of the day, started fine probably 5 times. Today I went out and it happened again. No crank, clicks every time…

I just got done pulling my 5th wheel for about an hour and when I stopped I noticed that there was a good amount of coolant splattered down the underside of my truck. As far as I can see it is not coming from the radiator or any hoses. It is wet on both sides of the motor and not mostly down low. My question is if the water pump was leaking would it leak down inside the front cover and come out the bottom. It is very hard to tell where this is coming from.

Has anyone used a injector fuel cleaner does it work is it safe? How often do I need to change my BAAF? How long does it last?

99 Dodge 2500 24v p pump man trans. WT- ground wire mod has been done. Fass pump. It started periodically no gauges then a mile or two down the road all gauges would start working ? Was always in a hurry. Never messed with it. Have a Edge II and it would lose connection, touch the screen would it come back on screen. Never showed NO BUS on dash, when this took place. This has probably been going on close to two years. I never was able to look at it. I got Covid 4 times and was very sick. Better now. Gauge issue has gotten much worse as of last month. I would cycle the ignition and the gauges would stumble and eventually come back. If the truck sat for 2-3 days batteries…

I poured a gallon of my wife's cooking oil in the tank. Man! I cannot believe how smooth the Cummins seems to love it. I'm pretty sure it has more power up the hills to boot.

so I got a airdog 150 off a cracked block engine. My question is do I need to put a draw straw in my tank or can I use the stock suction line? also the bed will be off the truck as I"m repainting the frame so migth be a good time for tank upgrades? just not sure if the draw straw is the way to go. Thanks

Dammit!I just went to NAPA to get new U joints and Center bearing. U joints are nice quality federal mogul made in usa & zerks included but the center bearing was crap! NAPA brand but made in china. wtf?? :mad:Ok I know more and more stuff is made in china, maybe ok for some applications but I'm not installing cheap china parts in my driveline.Any reccomendations for aftermarket quality parts purchases besides the dealer?Thanks

Ok so i turn the ingition switch on and The dash lights are dead, no radio, no wipers. no instrument panel, fuel pump does not cycle on for the normal two seconds, and the wait to start light dose not come on. tail lights work, head lights work, hazard lights work heater fan comes on and blows air. When i turn the ignition switch to the start position the blower turns off and that is it. My three gages on the pillar light up when the ignition switch is turned on but the have no power and do not light. I checked the fuses and i am thinking that the ignition switch may be bad. not sure how to check just a guess really.

Hey guys so this pretty much all happened about a year ago, I was cruising home ( nothing crazy) when all of the sudden the truck started surging and gaining MPH/RPM. Limped it home it would just randomly spike RPM to redline sporadically and come down to idle. changed fuel filter and seperator (FASS) and found my FASS had a popped fuse, fixed that. 16 PSI of fuel pressure, no CEL and issue still occured. Put a scan tool on it and the scope showed spike in voltage on ECM, APPS, and VP while the RPM jump was happening. Im leaning towards replacing the ECM. The truck has been off the road for nearly a year now from this and really want to get it back running. Has anyone run…

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So I'll start off by saying that I should have been more diligent on axle oil changes (once a year if towing/hauling heavy like most of us do)and that's likely what landed me in this position. That being said I didn't find anywhere on this site, articles about diagnosing, repairing or just general info. So at this point I have a chattering rear end but only on tight corners loaded or backing trailers, I tried the simple things new fluid new limited slip addative, to which I didn't gain much. Now my questions are: How much time do I have left before this thing grenades I only need two-three weeks. Rebuild the power-lok and if so what would be a rec…

hey guys been a while and i need some more help, today i noticed a good amount of tranny fluid under my truck after the morning commute, i de-greased, rinsed and inspected and it looks like its coming from the tranny cooler lines (the "isolater blocks" had moved allowing the hard lines to rub for who knows how long) i am ordering the "DieselManor Generation 2 Cooler Line for 1994-2002 Dodge RAM Cummins" with the port for trans temp guage but i cant find the rest of the lines on the web! any ideas? dont want to go to the dealership." also when i turn on my a/c i get a plesant aroma of anti freeze with the occasional puff of white smoke from the vents. heater core going b…

What happens when the 5th nut fails on an nv4500? Loose 5th gear or everything?

Hello Guys I have a 5.9 24 valve cummins in my F250. Im experiencing hunting at idle when in gear, worse when warm.Ive done the hot wire test and taking the ECM out of the equation and runs fine with no hunting, that said as expected no. I made up jumper wires from the VP44 disconnecting data link from the ECM and runs smooth but only 1000rpm....since doing the test Ive emphasized the problem, now I have skipping and bucking but no hunting up through the throttle range.Can only get fault codes from PCM not ECM ?...Im on the fence on whitch way to go APPS, VP44 or dirty signal from ECM....any help would be much appreciated..Im on the west of Australia …

I rebuilt my 47re all new parts with a ATS rebuilt shift solenoid. On cold start shifts fine until you you stop it doesn’t down shift and it then starts in second gear and will not go to over drive. basically have reverse, second and drive. (scanner indicates short in solenoid)