2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Is there a way to test VP44 health when there is no codes? My truck ran like crap this morning. Very chattery and doggy. I’m wondering if my VP isn’t going south. It started pretty well but was pretty chattery for only 25 degrees. Scanned for codes and got nothing.

New to this great forum. Just wondering if anybody knows of anybody that has had long term success after replacing the transistor in their vp44 module??? I am referring to the “injector pump fuel valve” drive transistor that overheats melting its connection. Anyone know what the original transistor was that Bosch used? If so please let us know what transistor replacement you used? Did you solder or use an adhesive to secure and provide the necessary heat transfer? Thanks, Gary

First time poster, appreciate all the info exchanged here. 2001 2500 ETH (six speed) 245HP (I have owned the truck since new - June of 2000) I think the current (subject) VP was installed by me around 2003??? and is the second replacement pump on this engine. I have always changed fuel filters and "check" lift pump pressure with a mechanical gauge which is anywhere from 6 PSI WOT to 12-14 PSI (25 second no start check). I have a FASS DDRP installed (2011), (new overflow valve and fuel drain valve installed recently. So......I am here looking for a little help I have had an intermittent dead pedal about one year now.....It has progressively gotte…

Ok I go to tap my vp44 and the wire you are supposed to tap is missing the insulation and some of the wires are broke ? Can you replace the wire ?

These wires were bare and the plastic falLing off is this mud problem Sorry picture didn't post but it's wires on vp 44 I was fixing to remove it too see if it could be re soldered and its touching and wires bare

Ok Gang... You all have seen the Dodge FSM book minimum pressure of 10 PSI. Well I started to do some thinging and relized even that is too low. Here lets take a look at a pic here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=878 So now let assume your fuel pressure average is about 12 PSI which is above the 10 PSI minimum pressure. Driving down the highway at 55-65 MPH your going to be flowing at least 2-3 GPH through the pump. But now let add a twist to it. New situation... Going up to Seven Devils Campground its a 17 mile drive up a 1 lane dirt road that is steep. I'm dragging a utility trailer with 2 ATV's. Ok for the sake of the post we'll say t…

I figured a few on here would get a kick out of this. not affiliated with any of this, just wanted to spread the laughs.

Hello, I'm certain many have changed out the Draw Straw to 1/2" but I don't seem to be finding discussion on it. Could someone please direct me to a discussion or documentation on doing it? Thanks. Leaky

Tried 3 times to contact Eric (on vacation maybe?) The valve at top of his pressure tester...should it be leak proof or not leak proof? and turning screw on tester only depresses the valve stem (to allow pressure in) on what ever you are testing?

Soon to come... W-T simplified ground mod article. I did mine without buying very much stuff at all... All wire was reused!

Does my one have a list of supplies needed to do this. I couldn’t find an actual materials list in the articles about this mod. Thanks.

Hi all...I am getting ready to do the W-T ground mod and have a few questions. I have an early model 1998.5 and the alternator is wired a bit different from the later models. I was able to find a picture of the connections from a member on here and also a wiring diagram of the alternator. Do I remove the B+ cable on both sides of the junction block all the way to the PDC or just where I placed the red arrow? Then do I run a new short B+ cable from the alternator, with 140 amp fuse, to the passenger side positive battery terminal? Is everything the same for the grounding mod after this point? Thanks for the help!

1998 1/2 5spd. I am doing the w-t ground mod. I dont understand why I need to remove the alternator charging wire going though the bundle to the pdc. Why would i not just leave it? I am doing this in hopes to fix my grounds to get rid of a dead pedal issue. So what am i missing?

I kind of touched on this in another thread but can't remember which one or find it so here we go. Sorry for rehashing this. I did the basic W-T ground mod and installed a 150amp breaker between the alt. and passenger side battery. The breaker seemed to trip early (it was a cheapo from Amazon $12 made in china) but prior to the mod not once did it ever fry the 140amp OEM fuse which leads me to believe that the breaker is sub-par. So my question is: Which 150amp breakers are you all using with no problems? I have no tuner or major mods for that matter, basically stock truck, original alternator with about 148k on it. Need to get this done since it is…

When your buying ring terminals for the alternator don't go cheap and buy just larger crimp rings. Make sure to get a good copper ring for the alternator lead. I thought yesterday my alternator quit being the circuit breaker didn't trip neither did the fuse for the field wire. I kind of messed up yesterday and was trying a pop a rib out yesterday so I asked Mark to swap out the alternator with our donor truck here. He started pulling my alternator off and the charge lead fell off. The ring tore on one side and the rest of the ring wasn't strong enough to hold the current and poof! It melted and opened the circuit for charging. I highly suggest using copper te…

Ok. I did the ground wire mod for my landlord Cummins Truck. He had a bad alternator (Bosch) which was crossing the 60mV line with AC noise. After the the mod it dropped to 10 to 12mV AC. Typically it does make a huge improvement. Next day it pops the breaker. I assumed the diodes are bad enough to blow the breaker from shorting diode. Changed to a brand NEW Denso alternator. Drove the truck to my house and the alternator was hot and pop the 150A breaker again. At this point its my breaker from my truck in place and it popped again which my truck has never popped the breaker. Found out a sticking grid heater relay could pr…

I’m finally getting around to replacing all the battery cables and doing the WT mod. I have a very early 1998.5 24V, and all of the other posts and pictures about the WT mod seem to be on later second gens. I have pictures attached with markups. Can someone please confirm I’m on the right path. Thank you!!!

hey all , been a while.ya'll got me going last time i had trouble , maybe someone has had this problem. my wait to start light quit coming on. could it be my grid heater?

This seems to be consistent for my truck. I usually do not get a wait to start light on the dash...i just wait for the chimes and other lights to go out and turn the key, starts right up. What I have noticed over the years of ownership is that after the batteries are disconnected the will function again.(I usually notice after trying to start my normal way and just get cranking) I now have a FP gauge which gives me other details on this light. When it does function the light will come on two seconds or so after all the other lights and bells have gone off. When the light does come on I notice the FP gauge spikes up and then returns to zero as if the pump is turned o…

Howdy...first post but long time lurker. Sadly I am in a pinch and need some smarter minds than I (which don't take much). Not too long ago my WTS (wait to start) light quit working...I was new-ish to the truck at the time and now living in So Cal I thought it was an ambient temp thing and the truck did not need the warmers. After looking into it it seems either the bub is bad OR the ECU, right? So, I did a gauge check (via holding the odo button and turning key to on) the WTS light came on at the VERY beginning of the test but did NOT illuminate at the end when all the other bulbs were getting checked per the procedure. So that is confusing to me...some part of …