2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok. I did the ground wire mod for my landlord Cummins Truck. He had a bad alternator (Bosch) which was crossing the 60mV line with AC noise. After the the mod it dropped to 10 to 12mV AC. Typically it does make a huge improvement. Next day it pops the breaker. I assumed the diodes are bad enough to blow the breaker from shorting diode. Changed to a brand NEW Denso alternator. Drove the truck to my house and the alternator was hot and pop the 150A breaker again. At this point its my breaker from my truck in place and it popped again which my truck has never popped the breaker. Found out a sticking grid heater relay could pr…

I’m finally getting around to replacing all the battery cables and doing the WT mod. I have a very early 1998.5 24V, and all of the other posts and pictures about the WT mod seem to be on later second gens. I have pictures attached with markups. Can someone please confirm I’m on the right path. Thank you!!!

hey all , been a while.ya'll got me going last time i had trouble , maybe someone has had this problem. my wait to start light quit coming on. could it be my grid heater?

This seems to be consistent for my truck. I usually do not get a wait to start light on the dash...i just wait for the chimes and other lights to go out and turn the key, starts right up. What I have noticed over the years of ownership is that after the batteries are disconnected the will function again.(I usually notice after trying to start my normal way and just get cranking) I now have a FP gauge which gives me other details on this light. When it does function the light will come on two seconds or so after all the other lights and bells have gone off. When the light does come on I notice the FP gauge spikes up and then returns to zero as if the pump is turned o…

Howdy...first post but long time lurker. Sadly I am in a pinch and need some smarter minds than I (which don't take much). Not too long ago my WTS (wait to start) light quit working...I was new-ish to the truck at the time and now living in So Cal I thought it was an ambient temp thing and the truck did not need the warmers. After looking into it it seems either the bub is bad OR the ECU, right? So, I did a gauge check (via holding the odo button and turning key to on) the WTS light came on at the VERY beginning of the test but did NOT illuminate at the end when all the other bulbs were getting checked per the procedure. So that is confusing to me...some part of …

Today I decided to mess around with my edge OBD style programmer and uploaded the economy tune onto my truck. I had taken a trip on the highway the other week and wanted to see if I could get better then 16.5mpg. I started my truck and drove to work. It drove fine and started normal to me. After a few start ups throughout the day, I noticed that the WTS light was delayed, instead of coming on as soon as the key was turned on like it has been doing for the past 8 months I’ve owned this truck, it took about 5 seconds for it to come on. When the light came on, my fass lift pump also kicked on. I tried starting before the light kicked on and the engine would just crank. I fea…

So I replaced the fuel lines from the injector pump to where it T's off to the back of the motor and then the fuel return line. I went to replace the fuel pump with a drp2 but the connections are different (mustvhave been replaced at some point) Anyways. I go to start it after and nothing. No wait to start light and no power to the pump. No codes.I wired the pump to the battery and it will run. I also tried to put in a new relay switch drawing power from the brown/white wire going into the PCM and still nothing. I then replaced the ECM with a good used one and at the same time replaced the alternator in case there was any noise. Turned it on today and nothing. S…

im starting to get this problem and when it doesnt turn on an cycle its hard to start even if the engine is warm. its kinda like when i turn the key on its not turning on the power to it cause if i turn it off and turn it on then it will click on or if i bump start it and turn the key off then turn it on the WTS light turns on and as soon as it turn off the it fires right up. i can pull my ignition key out while the truck is running, it came that way when i bought it used. do you think the ignition switch needs to be replaced or a fuse or relay?

Can this be due to a bad IAT sensor?

Yeah I got a a weird one. I had a truck come to the shop with a dead injection pump (P1688 and P1689). It got a new Injection pump and lift pump from Vulcan Performance. After getting it running the WAIT TO START light is stuck ON even while driving. The grid heater are cycling as normal and canceling out either by time or by speed. I've done my AC noise check on the alternator and it was .260 at the highest. So the alternator was replaced and the new one is floating about .040 which is OK. But still got a stuck WAIT TO START. I check all the wiring for loose connection or pinched wires. I even call a local computer expert and they are stumped.

The wait to start light comes on and does it thing as usual when its above freezing. Truck starts normal and works great. If its colder than freezing, it will take a few extra seconds to light the light. It also takes longer for it to go off when its colder, I think this part is normal. Of course when its hot out the light is on and off right away. Do I have an issue with the ECM or am I just crazy (normal) No codes when scanned. I am not using it for a daily driver ...too darn cold. When the roads are nasty I will drive it cause It will get me there. Thanks Chris

already blew through 4 gallons of wally's blue 2 stroke oil, and need to be getting more pretty darn quickI suspect any non synthetic 2 stroke oil would suffice...So besides WalMart, what would be the next place to look? Do they offer it in 5 gallon pails? 30 gallon drums?

Looking to get a little more power, probably all I need is a little more boost. Anyone know anything about Turbosmart wastegates? Another option was a boost fooler but heard mixed reviews as how much they actually do. Also was looking at upgrading Turbo, Borg Warner makes a drop in K27 that it says has better low/mid range response. Not sure I want to upgrade to more performance electronics like Quadzilla or Edge. Any suggestions?

I use my truck for work every day, its a tool box and a hauler. I've been considering getting Van to use as a drier tool box seen as I live in the Pacific NW, and I keep putting more tools in truck and have to decide which ones get to ride in back more often than not. So, I use to drive vans and I thought it would be cool to put a 2nd or 3rd gen engine in van. Has anybody seen this done or know anybody that has done it. Does the 5.9 fit is the biggest question I have? Thanks for your input

My truck has a two pillar pod, both egt and boost gauges are toast. In my new to the Cummin's world mind, I think I want EGT, fuel pressure and trans temp and boost as first gauges. My 2000 24v has a new Fass titanium, new injector pump, running Smarty #1. Would I be better off with the electronic reads it all or should I install all new mechanical gauges? I don't tow or beat my truck but I want it to live a long life. This is a daily driver which sees a couple miles of crappy roads then 90 miles of hiway 5-6 days a week. Advice from people with similar situations would be much appreciated! Much thanks for the forum and advice!

I would like to upgrade the performance of my truck and as far as what i have been told i will only be able to try for around 100 hp without a new trans or upgrading the stock trans. I am going to start by removing the resonator and muffler. Then upgrading the p-pump and restricting the turbo wastegate as well as changing the air box and filter. the final part to my puzzle will be a box ie. comp edge. please let me know if i am leaving anything out or if there is another order in which to proceed.

I have a ton of AN line and fittings ranging from #3 to #12 lines and fittings. I was wondering if anyone knows off hand the thread type after you remove the Banjo bolts from the filter? Also what size line would ya run i am guessing #6 or #8. Thanks CD

As the title says I've got the alternator diode issue and while it's off I'd like to make a new wire from alternator to fuse box. The rubber loom is rotten and falling off causing it to short against spots. I'm not sure where I can find these exact lugs. Fitment in the alternator is pretty tight.

Hi there guys. A couple days ago I was driving down the highway and the ABS and brake light came on. Wasn't sure if it was anything big so I pulled over and shut truck off, restarted and lights were off. I asked someone and they said it was common and no big deal. Now, last night both came on, won't go off and now my speedometer wasnt working at low speeds in town but then when I would get to 45mph or so it would jump up and when I would slow down, it would drop to zero again. Is this an issue with the batteries or something bigger or are they separate problems? I have the 99 and no code reader so just trying to figure it out! I did have brakes changed about a mont…

I was turning the alternator nut to get the valves to TDC when all of a sudden the nut comes loose and now I can't get it tight because the pulley spins with the nut. I'm not familiar with how to work alternators or how to adjust them so any help is appreciated!!