2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,275 topics in this forum
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I think its in the app's, when you are going through the gears you can feel a fairly sharp miss occasionally. Its irracic almost like a surge, hard to describe. But when you set the cruise its fine. This is a new to me 2002 bones stock straight axle dually with stock exhaust and never been touched motor. 272k Its strong, the gears are like new no slack 6 speed HO. Thanks Did the key trick to check for codes and nothing came up.
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I noticed downloaded Quadzilla tunes are in json format. Is there a schema for key value pairs available to decipher the tunes? I’m new to tuning and Just trying to learn a bit more about how this all works. The data doesn’t read intuitively, like {“max valet power mode”:”30”}. Instead all values are coded, like {“135”:”144”, “15”:”6”}
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Can someone help me out, I’m trying to put my engine harness on and can’t seem to find a form or picture on how to do so. First time doin this need all the help I can get
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so i got something in my drivetrain kinda hooking up making a poping sound in 2high, It only dose it in reverse with the wheel cranked to the right.(in 2hi) i don’t feel it or hear it with the wheel cranked to the left. I also can’t make it pop going fed in either direction (in 2hi) In 4high I can make it pop going forward with the wheel either way, like barely half to 3/4 turn not even cranked. if i kept wheel straight in sounds fine but turning the wheel either way it was binding up hard. I was on dry pavement so i know it 4high this is somewhat normal. I am more concerned about the 2hi noise. I cant find any play in any axel joint or u joint…
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Hi folks I own a 1998.5 with Cummins 5.9L 24V Ram 2500. Automatic. 4x4. I got under the truck to try and ID the tranny. I learned where stamped ID numbers were located. I can read 10PK522195, I think. Hard to read. I would need to get a wire brush and some break clean to better read it. Does my truck likely have the 47RE tranny? I see a good used one for sale locally. Seems like a good price. Thinking of picking up for a spare. Mine is at 261,000 KM currently. No problems. Just planning to keep the truck long term. Could store the tranny easily. Thanks, Keith
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I am ordering a rental Smarty and high idle switch from DAP later today. Sole purpose is to enable factory high idle. It's my understanding that all i need to do is install any Smarty tune then return the truck to stock tune and I'm good to go. Is this correct?
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Trying to track down the test procedures for the ess (engine speed sensor) on a 99 ram 24v. I’m assuming it would be in hertz? I’m trying to see if my ecm is correctly giving this reading to the pcm.
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1) 150 hp over injectors DAP 7x0.010 VCO..hamilton 103 pd springs and pushrods 2)MDC S300 62/65/14 cm or 12cm 3) 47RE Auto (Don't know what's been done if anything at all) 4) 4:10 gears 35 tires and 20 inch rims 5) air dog FP-150 6) DPS exhaust manifold 7) S & B cold air intake 8) Pusher 3.5 mega intak3 (W) Cross air # PDC9802MCA 9)ARP Studa 247-4262 10) 188/220 Hamilton Cam 11)Quadzilla Adrenaline Tuner Need a Daily aggressive street tuner
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Im having heck trying to find straight axle parts. Is there something else you call a straight axle?
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My 02 dully is a cab and chassis, I am able to get to the in tank module/fuel pump. I was planning to install a Airdog 150 with draw straw then I saw the Airdog Fuel Module, what is involved here? And how is my fuel gauge to work if I pull out old pump. In other words I havent a clue.
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Im new to the nv5600 so I been digging up info on how many qts should over fill. I read everything from 4.5 to 7qt. Im running 6 in it now but if any of you are running 7 Id like to hear from you. Thanks
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When I purchased my truck the hydro-boost had a leak, but instead of replacing the gaskets I just purchased a whole new unit, (I figured after 205,000 miles I might as well). Now 2,500 miles later of no problems or leaks, I got in my truck yesterday morning, started it, and a couple seconds of idling later there was a loud noise coming from the hydro-boost. I quickly shut off my truck, waited a few minutes and then tried to start it up again, and it started doing it again. (P.S. whenever I tried turning the steering wheel or pressing the brake the sound would get louder). However I came home from work that evening and started it up and it didn’t make the sound, and drove …
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Drive the truck all day today, came home parked it for a few hours put my new rims/tires on and then went and started it up and got half way down the road when I realized my speedo wasn’t working. This is also causing the truck to shift weird because it doesn’t know how fast it’s going. Anyone have any ideas as to what could go bad just from sitting for a few hours? Picked up a new axle speed sensor and will throw that in tomorrow for a Hail Mary. I’ve already checked the wires and everything looks good. Also throwing a p 1683 code speed circuit short. Could the sensor internally short and just took a crap?
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I’m still running down some issues with my truck. It will start and run but I dont have any charging, no a/c clutch, and no O/D. Everything works when bypassed. No voltage from the pcm on the blue wire from the pcm to the trans relay and alternator. Checked CCD bus with a meter and have 2.4 - 2.5v on the network. Unplugged all modules except pcm, ecm, and ipc. Still no signal. Checked cam sensor and the bolt was missing but I replaced the sensor anyway. Checked and cleaned all grounds. Instrument cluster and overhead console are working so I don’t think the ccd is the issue. I’m wondering if it’s possible to have a bad crank sensor even though the engine starts and runs. …
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Pop pressure of Injectors When you look at a 24V Cummins fuel injector and look at how it's designed and how it functions. The injector pintle is held shut by spring pressure. For stock injector, you need 310 bar (4,500 PSI) to make the injector open and release fuel into the cylinder. Now the bottom limit is 293 bar (4,250 PSI) below this point the automation gets poor and there is more smoke because the fuel can't be heated enough to get vapor to go BANG! As injectors start getting lower pop pressure they do flow more fuel but the droplets start getting larger. This typically creates more black smoke as well as increased fuel flow. Net problem is daily drivers end u…
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So I've ordered new air horn gaskets from Geno's, didn't have them when installing the new vp44... I THINK I hear an air leak... would I get similar smoke if one of my inter-cooler boots was split?
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Has anybody else had problems with downloading the installer? When I click on the link it says that I don't have permission to install it
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Torque Converter Issues and Alternator Noise Testing Before Testing - IMPORTANT PLEASE DO NOT SKIP! Before doing any testing of the alternator for AC noise, make sure to remove any and all wiring modifications. Return the electrical system back to stock. Make sure there is no extra grounds, relocation of ground wires or noise filters installed before testing the alternator. It has been brought to my attention that wiring mods can and will provide false passing grades for the alternator. The entire electrical system should be left stock and unmodified so you (the owner) are alerted sooner to impending alternator failure. Stock system will show AC noise issues much …
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Has anyone tried this? I've watched a couple videos about it but I'm still questioning it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teAV96QfAyg
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1998.5 dodge ram 2500 24v leaks tons of oil out of the breather tube, truck runs great and gets great fuel economy, oil does not smell like diesel and doesn't gain oil, it loses a ton, so far in 2500 miles I've lost almost 3 gallons, making sure to keep it up. Very odd considering how well the truck runs. I've seen someplace it could be something to do with vacuum leaks? Any insight?
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