2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Well I was excited that I found an upgrade turbo a HE351W Ya the Chinese Holset.(since my PacBrake would bolt up) that was going to be bolt on, but the modulator? for the wastegate hit the oil filter housing. I removed one of the studs from the manifold just to get it in there. Now I need to determine the best way to make it fit. Thinking of bending the the bracket or cutting to move it up. Always up for suggestions.

Out of shear curiosity, how long and/or how many miles do you go before changing your oil? What oil do you use? Myself I use Amsoil 15w40 and generally go about 6000 miles before I change it. I'm still programmed to change oil every 3000 miles so it just feels wrong to even go that long! I've read where some people go a whole year between oil changes and so I would just like to start a poll and see what guys are doing! Thanks!

So, finally got the truck all ready to go since rebiild. I got 1100 trouble free miles on it. Been pushing it hard, trying to weed out any bugs or issues. Hook up the 5th wheel, get going down the road, 4 miles....4 #@&#$! miles... And I blow a freeze plug on right under turbo on the water jacket. 4 miles.... Now, before ya ask, yes, I replaced all the freeze plugs during the build. However, I had them done at the machine shop when the block was getting worked over. So, now what...roadside assistance got me home....but for some reason I don't think the answer is to just put in a new freeze plug and then "go see what happen…

Last year I had the dead pedal syndrome on my 2001 Cummins 3 hours away from home pulling our camper. I limped the truck home with the camper after our summer vacation. Anytime I would start from a dead stop, extremely slow acceleration. It would run down the interstate fine once up to speed. FF, I changed out the lift pump which must have been failing because it wasnt pumping enough fuel. Also replaced the stock exhaust to a 4", added 4 guages & installed the BHAF system. New tires, new ball joints, new power steering pump and I thought I was all set for awhile. Last week while hauling the trailer, I had the dead pedal syndrome once again everytime the tranny …

hello ... for several days it gives me the p0222 code but it did not cause a fault that I felt driving, I did not use the truck for a week and yesterday when I started it it made like 8 injection cuts in a row and very strong and then the engine was turned off I just started it several times but he did the same and the throttle does not respond and the only code he gives is the P0222, I am very worried I don't know what it will be. thanks for your help. Orlando

Living in North Carolina we don't frequently see extremely low temps but last year we had a few weeks that went as low as 8 degrees. I don't think they sell winterized diesel here, at least I can't find anything that says they do. I'm wondering at what temp should I use and anti-gel supplement? Also, I always run 2-stroke oil in my fuel. Is it safe to run anti-gel with the 2-stroke when necessary?

Getting set to start upgrading my ‘01, including 100hp injectors, head studs, turbo, FASS, clutch, exhaust, exhaust brake, Quad, and gauges. At what point should I consider upgrading to heavier valve springs? I’m targeting around 450-475 whp with the changes I’m making, but at what point should the stock valve springs be updated? Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas!

So after extensive testing the pcm is not putting out 12v positive to the alternator/trans relay circut. Without going to the dealer to confirm yet, which will happen. Anyways after much searching I have not found anything consistent, but a whole bunch of rebuilder websites. I don't have much faith in any of them, but have any of you taken the plunge and bought a remain pcm? If so how is it holding up? I started calling junk yards around here with no luck, so I'm already assuming that either I'll have to try the internet or go to the dealer. Anyone have any help? Thanks!

I've found a good place to mount my Fass titanium relay on my '99 and rout the harness in the engine bay. Mocking things up. Was curious where others mounted your fass relay switch and ran your harness on your 2nd gen

Determined I have 2 crap IP pumps....Need ONE TODAY...any ideas....I am in Eugene, will travel where needed Call me PLEASE 541-232-9958

As the title states, I while installing my Wicked Wheel on my HX35W I snapped the tip of the shaft off getting it tight. I know the instructions say to get it hand tight but it was seized and would not spin freely at all. The tighter I got it the looser it got and spun a little more freely until it snapped. It's for a 99 manual truck. I'm not trying to buy anything that's not genuine, I would buy just the center piece but my exhaust housing has been rusted to the point where it will not budge and I need to clock it for the compound turbo setup.

hey everyone im new to this wonderful forum,anyways ive got a 2002 dodge 2500 single cab diesel and everything on my truck is stock so where is a good starting point as what i should upgrade first. I want to add some power but nothing outrages just mosty for towing.

I have all my gauges and comp ran through the hole that the clutch rod goes through so im gonna have to change them out. Do you with stick shifts drill a hole or is there a better spot?

Where is the article on testing for AC leakage using a good multimeter Cant find it. Guy on other forum said there was a good article here Thanks Rick

^^^ like the title says I am looking for the best place to buy 2 new front wheel hub/bearing assemblies for my TWO wheel drive 2001 dually. I can find 4 wheel drive hubs all day long, but 2 wheel drive not so much! I know very few folks have 2 wheel drives so I am sure it is a supply and demand thing.

I can find all the normal gaskets, turbo to manifold, oil out, oil in, boost out ect. The gasket I can not find for the hx35 is right next to the waste gate and before the cast elbow that attaches to the exhaust pipe. It has an irregular shape with 5 bolts. Exterior measurements of 6 X 4.5

I blew an oil seal out of my 62mm the other day, and rushed in a rebuild kit from Southeast Power Systems. Rebuilt the turbo today, and it's leaking worse than before! Question now becomes does anyone know where to source a genuine Borg Warner rebuild kit? Google has been of no help to me, as all I am finding is crappy aftermarket kits that I know will suck

For the second time in three years I believe my ECU is headed south. A few weeks ago the truck didn't want to start. I checked the grid heater and had more than the recommended resistance between the terminals. I had power to the relays with the wait to start light just no power coming out. Fusible links are good. Now the problem as I understand it is I have 12 volts to the relays with the wait to start light on. When the wait light goes out, I should have zero volts to the relays. I have seven. If I have more than zero it sould be the ECU according to the service manual. I now have IAT sensor voltage codes, fuel calibration error codes, etc. Now the million dol…

I have narrowed down my power issue to I hope what is the ECM. I get a lack of power at consistently 35 mph+. The guy who did this swap used the ECM from the manual 2001 and it had some sort of tune on it that no one seems to know. Just trying to find someone to flash it back to stock and start my troubleshooting from there. My local dealer said they do not do any electronics like that for my year of vehicle.

I have two 1/8th pipe fittings in top of my fuel filter one is towards the side and one is closer to the center. I am guessing you want the fuel pressure that has just passed through the filter correct? If anyone has pictures please post so I don't mess this one up. Thanks CD