2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Quick question for the experts! Currently working on bleeding my fuel system after installing a new VP44 and some injectors (all from DAP). I've bypassed the relay on my FASS165 because currently i'm unable to bump start the truck with my wiring harness being removed. While having it bypassed I am able to get fuel to flow out of the #5 injector line but that is it, I cracked the lines on #1, #3 as well as the #3 line that connects to the VP also. Does the VP have to be turned over in order to see fuel flow to the other injectors? In my head it makes sense this is the case but I'm looking for input, I hope to have my harness installed tomorrow and maybe turn th…

If I loosen the #4 and 5 injector nuts only, do I need to bleed the whole system again or can I just bleed those two lines by bumping the starter til they leak? Or do I not even need to bleed them for just removing the nut?

I've been fighting a blend door issue where if you turned the temperature up to warm up the cab and later want to turn it to a cooler setting the door wouldn't move. You had to turn it up hotter and then quickly down lower and it would start to cool down. Now Being I've never done a heater treater yet I was thinking the shaft broke and hanging it up. I grabbed Mark and asked him for an offset Phillips driver. With little patience, I managed to remove the two Phillips screws and removed the stepper motor for the blend door. I was shocked my shaft coupler was still going strong. Then I popped open the steeper motor lubed the gears with …

Mike, would you happen to have the lube properties of 50/50 fuel, which was 'cut' with a benzene xylene 'anti cloud/jel' product?

98.5 24v. truck has a block heater but it is 110volt 3 pin. I have a transformer from 240v to 110volt so no problem on that side but on the American plug what is what ? I'd guess big pin is earth and other 2 are live and neutral ? Does it matter which is which as it does here (England)

WWwwwwooorrrrrRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrzzzzzZZZZZZZZZZZzzzzzzzzzzzz! So, last winter, I got this weird buzz from my block heater, and a very high current draw to the heater. Popped a CB in the house. And, like any true American would do, I reset the breaker and plugged that puppy back in! I haven't used it since though. I Ohmed the plug, and couldn't find any leaks and summer was coming so I didn't worry about it. I was thinking of replacing the thing soon. Has anybody had this issue?

I did start a topic on this earlier but deleted it as I was soooo confused on what I needed to use the block heater in the UK. I have a 110v transformer as households here in the UK use a much more deathly 240v, all work sites use 110v so 240v to 110v transformers are rather common BUT our 110v uses totally different plugs and sockets and heavier cabling also, so I was going to ask what I needed to connect to the block heater plug at the rad support but after switching between several USA sites and several open ebay pages I found a company here supplies the very item, only small problem it's amazon and I for one think Mr Bozo is rich enough without my ££…

My block heater is tripping breakers in the house. I ohmed it out and it falls in an acceptable range. It has been a while since I did it, but I think the reading was about 19 ohms. What ever it was, from the research I had done the reading was acceptable. I would think that if I had a rub thru in the wire that would give me an open reading. The extension cord I used to get there has been starting snowblowers and running circular saws recently with no problem. Any ideas? Or just replace it?

Long story short. I plug in block heater GFI outlet breaker trips. I don't see any breaks in the wiring. So is my cord from the block heater bad? Is the block heater bad? or both? It was all working up until this week. I used the same outlet and extension cord with some power tools and they all worked fine.

Those with block heaters, and use them, I have a question..How "hot" does your coolant get when plugged in overnight? I realize this could be dependent on ambient temps, possibly, but I'm curious. As an example, my block heater heats the coolant to ~100*F when plugged in overnight. Is this a normal temp for these things? Seems my '96 got hotter than that, but not 100% positive.

Just curious as how you all use your block heater. I am of the mind set that the more you use something the faster it will wear out so I try not to over use things if not needed. So that leads to: Is it better to leave it plugged in all night or possibly for a day or two at a time or would it be best to just plug in an hour or so before you fire it up? Any advantage to either practice? This morning the outside temp is 9° so I figured on plugging in an hour before start up today just to aid in warm up and easy cranking. It should start fine without it but I know it will be easier on the engine with a little heat in there.

Pictured is the block numbers I just installed in my truck. I removed the infamous 53 block. After attempting to start with no luck.... I researched and found that the back of the cam gear with the newer block has a tone wheel where the original only had a notch. I'm in the process of swapping the cams out because I'm sure this is the reason for the no start. I would like to identify this block for future reference if anyone can help me out. 1998.5 ram 3500

I had my 53 block replaced with another complete motor. I know where the 53 was stamped but where should I look on this one. There is a stamp on the front that says made in Mexico. Does this mean it's a 55?

I have a 99 Cummins with 109,955 miles on it. I have noticed I had white smoke coming out of the blow by tube but not anything noticeable unless im stopped for a few minutes. if I take the oil cap off it blows a little white out of it but not like clouds of it. So next I did the oil cap test and removed it and flipped it upside down and it didn't bounce around or move (except a little due to vibrations of the engine). the truck runs awesome no lack in power perfect pick up and go, it doesn't smoke except a little black on start up and doesn't eat coolant or oil. No knocking either. The oil pressure is around 30-35 at idle and at normal cruising speeds of 55mph at aro…

so I dont have a drip can, i just have a hose hanging down in front of my diff. and I have excessive blow by as far as im concerned for 60,000km.... is something plugged? or done wrong or is there a better set up? i have very high Oil pressure too. 100+ psi cold ( gauge only reads to 100 ) and 50-60 hot idleing. would that have something to do with it? not sure what to build/buy to make this more of a breather then undercoating my truck

Since my last oil change when I put in 0-40 synthetic oil I've noticed increased blow by up to where there is a fair size of a spot on the floor. Is this an indication of an overhaul in the near future or is it not a big worry short term?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so i did the vent relocation mod shortly after i got my truck a couple of years ago, and cleaned the mess out of the radiator. Where the tube exits is just above the front diff/ujoint. It pushes enough oil out of the pipe to completely drench my u joint and drip on the ground. I have seen some videos and it seems this is excessive. :think:I also have a headgasket leaking externally so i figured no need to just go part way. I am saving for a overhaul now. Just wanted to double check the obvious. :banghead:

So, since I have installed the mopar1973man blowby mod, it exits right at the front differential on the driver side. I was wondering what normal blowby looks like. Does the outside temp. have any influence as well? My dipstick says its at the top of the full line still, but the differential looks wet like I accidently dropped some oil on it. It does not accumulate enough to the point that it drips on the ground though...

I developed this miss over the winter and blowby pulsating out of the oil cap. There's also blowby floating by the firewall but that could be coming from the breather. I don't think i have a vacumm leak because my defrost works. Can bad injectors cause blowby? Here's a video, sorry for the wind noise. truckmiss.mp4 Sorry I dont know why my sigs not showing up. 154000 mile 6 speed, with edge comp and 5 inch exhaust. Mostly stock truck.

Good evening to all I hope you have your favorite beverage and snack for this one as I've gone down a deep rabbit hole trying to bring this truck back to life so here we go! -----Short story, if you are having blower issues and the troubleshooting has basically stopped check the interior fuse panel to ensure you are getting good contact with your fuse, having an add-a-fuse can spread the little keepers inside the fuse holder creating an interrupt at the ignition source for the blower relay (pin 86 I believe).-------- In the process of fixing one of the numerous issues with my recently purchased 2001 Cummins I was at that moment…