2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I was towing a trailer last night and noticed that my brake lights were not working. I've dug into it a little bit. Ive tested all the fuses and they're good. I've done continuity test on the brake switch and it is good. i have turn signals and 4 way flashers, but i don't have any brake lights. Any ideas?

Hi all, So I've had a slow to return brake pedal since I bought the truck a year ago, but I was hoping after a power steering and brake fluid flush it would be better. Well I finally got around to flushing them and so far it's not much if any better. It takes a solid 3 seconds for the pedal to return when the truck is warm and even more when cold. I even took apart and cleaned the valve on the high pressure power steering line at the reservoir. And I used almost 4 qts of ps fluid to do the flush. Now we did only pump the brake twice lightly while doing the ps flush, but it spewed almost a qt of ps fluid just from that so we figured that was good for the hydroboost si…

Got a brake switch in yesterday to replace the OEM unit. The brake lights were stuck on, one night and killed my batteries. Before I read the instructions, I looked at the switch. I rotated the lever on the outside not thinking anything of it. Then I read the instructions... Supposedly by doing that before installing the switch it's no good. But I took it apart afterwards and don't understand why? Anyone know what's up? It just looks like an adjustable plunger. The internals are not complicated or sensitive. What gives.

Yesterday I had a horrible vibration while braking so when I got home I pulled the front tires and found my pads and rotors where shot. I've only had the truck a little over 6 months and never checked them (my fault).So, I went to NAPA and spent $250 on rotors, pads, seals, and grease. I started w/ the passengers side first since it was the worst. I cleaned and repacked the wheel bearings and installed the new rotor (my truck is 2WD). When I went to install the new pads and the caliper they simply would not fit. I compressed the piston in the caliper w/ a c-clamp as far as it would go and still couldn't get it to fit. Now I'm thinking my caliper is bad, the piston i…

heres my problem. my rear drums on my 01 are very touchy dont think my fronts ever even grab. if im goin down a dirt road in 1st gear and tap the brakes they will lock up in the rear. my parking brake doesnt work either. hope i can get it fixed before the ice comes. any ideas?

Hey all, just pulled my old trans that was slipping and not wanting to shift out of first a few weeks back. Got a brand new rebuild with a shift kit, raised pressure, redone VB, the works (not a full race trans but warrantied to as much power as I could add on a single turbo) and put it in. At first, it wouldn't run well, so I figured "what the heck, I'll replace output speed sensor and try." After that, It ran fine for about 5 miles until suddenly, it started slipping and wouldn't shift out of first. Same exact issue I had with the old one. The other day, it started up and went through the gears no issue but the problem has since come back. Now I've got the flui…

Rock Auto has a brand new, not reman, vp44? Is this right? For $2200? I think mine is toast and am looking at pumps. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8355604&cc=1366602&jsn=549 Industrial Injection supposedly has new one for $4000 too.

Is it possible to have an oil cap with a vent for the valve cover? I am fixing to install a 12v tappet cover and want to vent the valve cover aswell, so ill have 3 vents. Is it possible to vent the valve cover without drilling and welding bungs and doing what i said and making or buying an oil cap with baffles and filter on it?

My number 3 injection line snapped off at the vp. I'm looking for any ideas

I have a raptor 150 it just stopped working. My question is can you use the the raptor fuel line on the stock fuel pump? All my stock lines are there and capped but I lost my blue thing that connects the stock fuel line to the tank and I don't really want to drop my fuel tank in the parking lot it snowing and cold. I have changed the relay and this morning I'm going to check for power and all connections thanks in advance Jon

Oh man I put e85 in tank. Had half tank of diesel and put in fifteen gallons of e85. Drove quarter mile and it quit running. Getting towed to dodge dealer now in nabraska city. You think I messed truck up? They are going to take fuel out and replace.

So I started my trip back to Colorado and did not Get very far. About 100 miles. And when slowing to a stop for a gas station the truck died. It will not start again. Any ideas? No codes... Also no tach on dash and no bus message

Today I had to do a repair to my fuel return line coming off of the VP at the pressure regulating banjo. The steel tube cracked where it is pressed into the banjo. I was 40 miles away from home, luckily I had an old washing machine hose, and some SS clamps in the truck. Made the repair and ordered the new part over night from Cummins. I pulled in, and smelled fuel, the customer standing out side my truck confirmed this I am sure it happened from replacing the VP 44 2 times in a year, it did bend as I turned out the banjo bolt that last time, as I recall. ---------- Post added 03-10-2010 at 11:56 AM ---------- Previous post was 03-09-2010 at 05:27 PM ---------- …

Damn was getting ready to do the WT ground mod and noticed the upper mount tab is broken on my Alternator. It's a bosch. Are the bosch and denso alternators interchangeable? I've been shopping around for a replacement but seems to be some confusion about the correct alternator, depending on the eighth digit of the vin. ( in my case it's "C") Advance auto has the actual bosch alternator (based on the alternator part#) but the listing says it's for trucks with a vin: 7 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bosch-premium-100-remanufactured-alternator-al6400x/20851271-P?navigationPath=L1*14920|L2*14999|L3*15587 Rock auto has an alternator …

I have a 98.5 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 5.9 cummins and I have this weird tick noise at idle and also when I shift my truck from drive to reverse to park. In this video you can hear this ticking towards the end. I checked all my torque converter bolts and they are tight. Also you can see on some of the bolts that it looks like have been rubbing on metal. I am wondering if my flex plate is cracked and making this noise. Truck drives fine and has no power loss. Also the engine was rebuilt last summer and also has 18k on rebuild. What are your thoughts.? Watch "Flex plate broken?" on YouTube https://youtu.be/eo74OrnMqH4

Hey all, I've been having slow start on my 99 cummins and I read up about replacing the starter contacts and plunger. I got my parts in today and went to install them. When I took off the starter I noticed the smaller wire that was connecting to it was extremely loose. It was held on just by 1 wire and was hanging out of the starter. I accidentally broke it off trying to remove the nut that held the wire on to it. I attached photos of what I am talking about. Is there two wires that it connects too? Am I able to fix it, or am I better off purchasing a new starter? The pictures are here: http://imgur.com/a/iRc8B

I was coming back from AZ last week, up 93 to Twin Falls coming up grade engine started getting colder going up hill which is opposite of what normally happens. When I got back down on flats temp dropped down to 150. It was 19 degrees outside but that has never happened. Not wanting to stop, I continued on, blocked off radiator all the way and kept temp at 160-170 all the way home. Next day removed thermostat housing. To this? Went and bought new one at parts store. This is a first for me, never seen cracked broken thermostat. All is well now, lucky for me it stuck open. Could have been much worse, I might have got stuck in Idaho.

While changing the oil today I had my filter off and noticed something odd. I cant remember if I have noticed this before but there are no nicks in the blades and it has no in and out movement and very little side to side. It spins freely fine and builds boost as it should but as you can see there is a chunk of metal missing right behind the nut.

Hey guys, I've been averaging 450 km to a tank! :banghead: i dont understand it! my 400 in my old ford 1/2 ton gets better miledge!! can anyone give me some info onto what this might be!?Thanks guys:pray: