2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Bad part of this is I use my truck for work "traveling" and I broke it in Indianapolis and live in western Missouri. Has anyone else had this (happen) to them? If so what all did you do to repair it? The stuff I've noticed that is not working on mine is the fuel pump, engine preheat, dome light, the radio, the ABS light comes on and i get a "no buss" message. I realized I had done something wrong when I heard the ABS system making some noise as soon as I had touched the post to the cable. I have found at least one fuse terminal shorted. There is power on both sides and I didn't smell any hot wires at any time.

going to replace apps, now I see that a screw needs to be turned to take out the slackdoes any one have a picture of this screw, in the front I presume, thanks

ok unlike most My converter does not unlock most of the time. I have replaced and checked new alt. with new method, replace control solenoids, when I come to a stop it stays locked ,shifting to neutral does not unlock it. when I put back in gear will kill engine. when I restart it is unlocked. all though when I started it today after sitting all nite it was locked, shout it off when restarted it was unlocked.it seems to work fine when cold after warm up it fails to unlock. most of the time.also it was rebuilt about 10000 miles ago with new half billet converter.truck has 220000 miles

I am seeing a constant 21-23 pounds, is that too much?

On the drive to work today, made it about 4 miles. Pressure dropped to 12 then 10. Found a place to turn around pressure dropped to 0. Now the wiwrd part about one mike later pressure pegged high on my isspro electric gauge

Hello new to the forum and looking for some advice and information. i unfortunately have to do an engine swap on my 2002 dodge ram 2500. i have been searching all over for information on what i need to do and i have found almost everything i need besides the easiest way to get clearance from the cowl of the fire wall. i have read to take the head off, to take the valve cover and the #5 and #6 rockers and push rod assemblies. I have also heard that i would need to raise the cab to get clearance. If i raise the cab how can i raise it without taking off even more parts that i feel aren't necessary. But i have seen a couple of videos of guys pulling the engine out with the va…

Well as much as I was excited about having an automatic and not shifting gears as much I can now say I hate my automatic! I have hauled two tractors now with my new truck and it absolutely sucks! I am planning to do a 5 speed swap at this point. Here is my parts list so far please add what you think is necessary and add any ideas or concerns about it. NV4500 Bellhousing (will the standard one work or will I need a special one?) Clutch (South Bend ConOFE) Clutch Fork Slave cylinder and resivor NP241DHD t case (will the DLD behind my 47RE work?) Driveshafts Shifter console and cup holder PCM ECM Gauge cluster (Can I …

99 CTD 4x4 Tell me about advantages of disconnecting the heater grid. Im in Calif, but will be moving back to Idaho or Washington state I disconnected the Heater grid wire eyelet right at the drivers side battery positive terminal. ( is that the proper place to disconnect?) Ran my truck to see if it would throw the checkengine light (nope} So tell me the advantages or extra safeguard I benefit by disconnecting the heater grid. I thought I heard disconnecting it helped protect the ECM or something like that ? ? ? Or what issues does the heater grid operating cause, if any ? I obviously draws amps/power

Ok, So I bought a 2000 dodge 2500 4x4 auto, quadcab. When I bought it is seemed to run and shift fine. I got a pretty good deal on it and was a little worried something might be wrong. Well of course I didn't know about key trick to check for codes until I started working on it at home. When I bought it there was only 1 battery, so I bought two new batteries and installed. I also bought a raptor 100 and installed along w/ fuel filter. I did both of these at the same time. Since then I am getting 3 codes. p1693, p0216, and P0123. I know the first two point to mechanical ip failure, but it still cranks and runs good. The main problem I have now is the p0123 code…

So I bought the filter kit for the fast coolers buddy has the other style of filter the yarn filter. Is there any problems with running two filters or is that wrong.

hey guys n moparman, first post here i just got an email from the site suggesting my return but ive yet to post anyways ill start off with a bang.. 01 24v dodge excab 4x4 stock new vp n raptor, 86mph 2250 rpms i think forget what its governd to also have a 12v anywho pedal to the floorboard 13 psi going to the pump. idle i think 14 -17 im pretty sure. im trying to do this from memory i havent driven the truck in a week or so. so i believe it gets good FP? the gauge is taped into the shrader valve on the fuel intake banjo bolt and i recently changed the fuel filter and saw no change in numbers... regardless the truck gets 11-12 mpg around town. litterly $100 or…

Hey guys so i think i narrowed down the surging to one thing. P0500 obd code. I replaced the speed sensor in the tranny and it worked for a little while. Im still dealing with this issue. I ohmed the two wires to the pcm connector and they are good. My boss suggested a short to ground. I know its a wire issue now because i went over a bump and the abs/brake light came on again. What are some grounds and other things i can check? Battery terminals are new and clean. Anybody else have a problem like this? I have a p1693 code that follows after the p0500 is thrown too. Assuming that its because of the vehicle speed sensor circuit 1.

after searching for a fuel lab to do some home testing.. I found this site. http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf It is 7 years old, but had some pretty good info on various additives still on the shelves today. I always wondered what the hfrr stood for, and in a nut shell, they take a steel ball bearing, and it's rubbed across a steel bar at high frequency for 90 minutes, immersed in the test fuel. At that time, the ball bearing is microscopically inspected for wear, and the 'scar' is measured in microns. the actual measurement of the scar is the fuel rating.. I can't cut and paste that pag…

I have noticed a big increase in the amount of smoke/vapor from my vent tube, seems to happen since the weather turned hot. Day time or night I can see the vapor coming out around the truck. Runs fine no loss of mpg. Doesn't smoke anymore out of the oil filler hole. Doesn't use any oil and I only have a drip or two fall into the driveway. A/c controls, 4x4, and cruise all work as normal. I did the moparman mod this winter so it's my first year with it. Is this normal? Or should I be looking into something?

Alright guys so wanted to start a new thread about my transmission on the 02. I'm not even sure this is an actual issue, but being that the trucks new to me, I'm just trying to figure out if it's worth worrying over or not. So if it seems like I'm chasing nothing, I'm not trying too, just want to verify it's nothing before I ignore it and move on and it turns out to be a bigger issue I could've prevented. So, what's happening is when driving with O/D on, the truck will engage 3rd gear lock up around 38-40mph, then as speed gets up to 45ish, the trans seems to shift into 4th and attempt to lockup all within like a 1/2 second (and a slight jerky feeling) and then resum…

Lately I've started to notice what sounds like a slight tapping after my engine gets up to normal temperature. It's a very light tap & hard to hear but you can definitely hear it when you listen closely....Sometimes it even sounds like a clock ticking fast when driving normally.....Only thing I know that I have changed the last month or so is that I've been running Stanadyne Performance formula in my diesel....Is this an exhaust valve or something that I'm hearing?

So I bought one off of a buddy of mine and he had spliced his wire to the vp I want to go with the BD stealth cover is this the right thing to do or should I just splice.

I heard CAT was running this - or someone ....... any good ?? Its pretty cheap right ? Specific one or just the walmart one ?? Also - I wanna stay away from FRAM at walmart - but they do a MOPAR 280 filter or something ..... can that be used ?? Any good ?? Or stay away ......(Can't do oil change at my RV park -> so thinking of just taking to wallyworld ......) :shrug:Seems to be DELO/ROTELLA/QUAKER for around $45 +tax ..... including filter .... (fram/mopar)

Hello I'm new to site and did not search through the posts but found this site via YouTube from a Video called "24V VP44 Cummins Stand-alone rewire" I saved a couple Cummins Engines from 2 Bread Trucks my Buddy was scrapping and might have to make em run to sell them. If I was a little younger I might do something with these because I like Black Smoke! First engine I'm going to putz with to see how it runs is a 2002 ISB with 54 block. It has IP and Turbo and was told it runs from the mechanics who worked where this truck came from but still want to see blow by..etc It's missing stuff so don't to get into buying too much stuff. It's missing the line…

Ok Gang...I've got a project on a 2002 Dodge Cummins 2500 (no not mine). I've installed a fuel pressure gauge it holding 15-16 PSI at idle and about 11-12 PSI at WOT but at low speeds that I've seen. Here is the problem the codes have P0216 code present no others but its got a partial dead pedal. You can mat the pedal to the floor and it barely rolls along at 5-15 MPH then all of sudden like the ECM or the VP44 wakes up and hang on she powering up. There is no codes for APPS sensor so I'm not considering the APPS sensor. But now I know that 2 cases of ECM failure I seen where the throttle is limited (CajFlynn is one of them). Knowing both the ECM and VP44 are $1,000 dolla…