2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

Ok guys my truck has me stumped! Ill start from the begining and tell everything... My truck was doing the TC Lock and unlock at 45 MPH, after reading some stuff online I tried wiggling the black and white wire going from the battery to the alternator, stopped that problem I would just have to wiggle it every 3 weeks or so. The WTSL wasnt coming on either. So one morning(Months Later)I was leaving and my truck would idle fine but when I put it in gear I would have to push the throttle down like half way to get it to go, the truck felt like it had no power, it went to 3000 RPMs before it would shift, and when it did shift it felt like it was going to die. I pulled over lik…

And the premium prices being paid to get them

When I park on level ground or nose uphill its been turning over about 2 seconds or so no matter how long it sets. If I park nose downhill it starts imediatly like it always has. What is the best way to find my culprit? I dont see any wet spots anywhere but my fuel line is about 5 years old and looksdry rotted in some places but its not wet either. The teflon tape on the bottom threads of my needle valve was a little discolored so I replaced it with new and it fired up imediatly but its nose down hill too. - - - Updated - - - It also runs just as smooth as always, no miss at idle or anything.

i leaving OK to head home wednesday. while there i am going to install my new ADII 165. it came with a kit to replace the intank lift pump i have grown to love so much. Has any one here replaced an in tank pump? if so is there anything i should watch out for? the instructions look pretty straight forward but you never know. my try getting it running with the tank on the ground and rehang once it is runnig right. any input would be appreciated.

I am going to do the 930k service this weekend. I will change the trans fluid, oil and coolant. Other than that the truck is running great.

Lets hear your ideas? Injectors (RV275), Edge Ez, Powerpuck, Smarty, Quad, Etc...Just looking for a little extra for towing. I will be adding a 4in exhaust before end of year.

Something odd happened this morning. I packed up to head for Ontario, OR today. So my truck was parked in a unheated shop where the temperature was 44*F. Fired up move out on the yard to load up some old tires and wheels. Yeah my old Cooper STT and white spoke rims are gone! Then parked back in the driveway. Wait for MoparMom to get together and left. Well the first 5 miles going down the road if I throttled it at all it was bucking or surging just enough that even MoparMom asked what was going on. Which I told her I didn't know. I had 17 PSI fuel pressure. Rolling light to build engine heat. But unusual to feel it surge like that. After it warmed up fully it was gone nev…

today, i hooked up my gooseneck trailer and loaded some cattle, and i was hoping since i installed a new vp44, airdog165, ats arcflow, silverline stacks, my truck was going to have more horse power, but mywas dissapointed because my truck just cant pull a 24' gooseneck with 7 bulls (about 10k lbs.) When i take off the truck starts to shake and takes a long time to advance, i have a 2000 dually with the nv4500, with only 130k miles, i've had this truck for about a year and it is my first dodge truck. I like the fact that the engine is real simple and easy to fix, i also have a 00 duramax 2500hd with the banks six gun, and that truck pulls more than this truck. My truck is…

So I've been noticing that here and there my truck will put out a good amount of white smoke when starting up cold. This morning it did it for maybe a minute, tops, but went away after that. The truck had sat since Friday through some 30ish degree weather and I plugged it in on a timer so it'd be on a few hours this morning. Also used grid heaters and still had smoke. It doesn't do this any other time through out the day, but it also doesn't do it on every cold start in the morning so sort of weird and inconsistent. What do you think? Anything to worry about or sound normal?

The head has a weep on the backside. I'm not getting coolant in my oil that I can tell or vice versa. My question is is this something I should fix right now or run it til it starts dripping?

I had two different questions and just lumped them in to one thread. First, does anyone have a good write up for draw straw install? Going to do it Friday and wanted to make sure I have everything I need. Second, I just read somewhere that the 24v's also have the killer dowel pin problem. In my ignorance I thought it was only the 12v. If so how prevalent is it? I worked for a company with a fleet of over 100 6bt and 4bt engines and never saw the killer dowel pin however I did see the bolts back out of the housing on two occasions. I guess I'm wondering if this should be a 911 issue?

I have a 1998 3500 4X4 dually 24 valve fresh rebuild (3k miles) Industrial injection Hot Rod 44, Hamilton springs, 120 BD sticks, Air dog 150, Quadzilla , 5" exh. , Packbrake, DNE2 OD, NV4500, SB DD clutch, S&B intake & filter. Just installed Custom Airwerks turbo close to Silver Bullet in specs. Loaded trailer went from Boise to Portland and back and towed great. Only issue I had was too much black smoke for my liking at low end. by the time i got back the smoke was getting worse. Went through my injectors but no change ( easy to make all traffic vanish in my rear view mirror with pretty light to medium throttle . Decided that maybe turbo seals were leaking as ad…

I have been tossing and turning, surfing every post I can find that seemed related for 2 weeks trying to get answers. I am on the verge of rebuilding my 1998.5 as soon as I buy a newer rig to daily from now on and have this one as a toy. I’ve read more than one post about 6.7 crank in a 12v. And ppump on a 6.7. I was looking at stock bore or maybe 20 over(is anything bigger safe?) with a 6.7l crank and it seems I need shaved pistons to make stock compression. Are the crank gears interchangeable? When I rebuild it I’m going to try my hardest to get the crank polished and balanced, pistons coated, rods polished and hardened. And maybe my head milled off if the budget will a…

Can anyone help me? I was talking to a representative about my truck the other day :| :red and he breifly mentioned that I have a 45RE Auto Transmission. Cany You tell me what that means exactly. :smart I bought this truck to tow our 5th wheel trailer, about 6tons, and I was wondering if I should upgrade the torgue converter. :$: I am a novice to mods and really don't know too much about transmissions either so any help there would be greatly appreciated. :cheers Thanks,mab

So i was rolling down the free way today and my tire blew at 65 mph. My tires are 285/75 and i was aware they are rubbing and i think the blow out is due to this i have 16x10's i believe with nitto terra grapplers 285.... is it cause of the offset on the rims that it rubs... these are the rims i have: http://www.discountedwheelwarehouse.com/Store_Detail.cfm?ID=192660&InfoID=2505&ShowLarge=True&SnipID=4117 I would like to buy the same tire what do i need to do so they wont rub at all? I either have to change my wheel and tire combo to something smaller or im thinking i need a little lift in the front....if i were to lift the front so the whole trucks sits leve…

I recently bought an upgraded vp44 from Blue chip diesel ($1600) because my original died. After installing the first pump the truck started right up and ran great for about 10 minutes, then I got a code saying injection pump timing failure. I talked to Chip and he sent me another right away. This second pump has been great for about a week. Now for some reason around 1,000 to 1,200 rpm when I mash the go petal it loses power, makes a horrible lugging sound then picks up and runs fine. I am also having trouble starting. Warm or cold it doesn't like to start on the first crank and sometimes it won't start on the the second. This doesn't happen every time I go to start it t…

Anyone know how to test the vaccuum for the CAD 4x4 axle. Specifically - not sure if I have a problem with the CAD itself - or vacuum isn't correct on the two lines (red and black). Is there an easy way to test a) There is vacummb) Its the correct vaccum pressure I suspect my main issue is the actuator/thing on top of the transfer case - as it was pretty dirty when I reinstalled my tranny - so I cleaned out as best I could. Just want to know what I could do to test each component - before I go out and buy a posilok. thanks

What’s up new guy here, just bought my truck a couple months ago and stumbled onto the site, lots of cool info. Look forward to sharing my truck and learning from everyone. Like the title says it’s an 01 dodge 3500 4x4 5 speed, it has 301k miles and was a work truck for all but a couple years of its life. Start up construction company bought it in 2005 from an old man that bought it new, they put a flatbed on it and towed equipment trailers. I bought it for what I consider a good deal considering current economic times and plan on making into the weekend truck for the family, tow my boat and looking to buy a truck camper. The guy I bought it from took …

Hi all, it's been awhile, I had my trans rebuilt about a year ago w an RV converter upgrade. It has been great. So last week I pulled my 68 Comanche 16' camper trailer about 800 miles from my home to Tybee Island, Georgia for a Vintage Camper Rally. Not even a hiccup! I just drove the truck a few times w no camper while down there & it was fine. On the way back, it would hunt & then go back to normal until about 1/2 way home than it seemed like it would slip in any gear. I watched as my trans temp gauge started to climb as did my engine temp, so we decided to stop at a truck stop for about 10 minutes. After that it was fine until we hit the hills of West Virgi…

If everything surrounding the DDRP is stock, is it limiting the DDRP/fuel pressure? Would it be beneficial to increase fuel line size? And what other benefit that would also be beneficial when I upgrade from the DDRP to either a more powerful mechanical or electric pump should I do?