2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

First.... What kind of lift pump is this? And is it decent? Second.... Do I have a DANA 80 that is limited slip or not? I heard that limited slip dana 80s are standard in 01 and 02 one tons with the 6 speed tranny and 245 motor, but I don't know. Third.... My cruise control indicator on the lcd screen below the trip and odometer always stays lit, and my cruise doesn't work.... Next, this may be related to the cruise not working or it may not be, my BRAKES and ABS light are constantly illuminated.. Only codes I have are the 0122 code for a dying apps, which I will be replacing with one from timbo in the near future.

Has anyone used a injector fuel cleaner does it work is it safe? How often do I need to change my BAAF? How long does it last?

I have a 99 quad cab dually, with 5 speed tranny and 3.55 gears. It is basically all stock except for the AirDog II 150. I have Fuel PSI, Boost, and EGT gauges. I currently only see 16 PSI max boost. Is this normal for a stock truck? I have tried searching on the forums, and all I really saw is max numbers of what the turbos and engine can produce and handle. So, can I raise my boost numbers closer to 25 without a boost fooler? Its really not a big deal to me, seeing as how the truck seems to run great, but just curious. Basically, just curious about what I would need to achieve 25 PSI.I was also considering getting some RV275's. Will I notice any gains adding these right…

New Blue Chip X, Marine Injectors and a valve adjustment, with a new filter thrown in for good measure:cool:

Well anyways, my 53 block has been cracked for a couple of years now and growing steadily.Iv'e been shopping around and here is what I think I will do. my truck has 140,000 miles on itso I think the best route to take is to get a new block and have all my stuff put on it.The mech said they will do the head and do anything needed while it is in the shop. I just wanna do it once and do it right. Looking at right at 8 grand does this sound like a good number ?? I do not want to put a junkyard engine in my baby.Luke

So, looking under the hood one day, checking the oil level, I noticed a hairline crack running right between cylinder 3 and 4. More than likely and I'm putting money it, the funky color I was seeing under the turbo on th manifold was probably this same crack, but I bet it has now traveled. If not though, and regardless, how much of this is a problem and do I need to worry? If this is a mandatory fix, what do I need to go with? - - - Updated - - - Nobody, eh?

About a month ago while changing oil and looking over everything I noticed my exhaust manifold was cracked. Thanks to @TFaoro who still had his stock manifold. I finally had time to get it installed yesterday. My manifold was cracked much farther than you could see on the truck. Here are a few pictures.

HelloDuring a routine valve adjustment the shop noticed that my exhaust manifold is cracked between 3 and 4. I plan on replacing with an aftermarket, they are reccomending the BD manifold, what is everone using? Is one better than the other? Also can about a 100 deg higher EGT than normal for the last 2 years that i could never explain no boost leaks whatsoever poor economy be chaulked up to the cracked manifold???Thanks eveyone

Got a 1999 24v 3500. So the top of my filter housing is leaking fuel. My question is. If I purchase the fass fuel titanium system with the dual filters. Will this eliminate the factory filter housing?

I'm replacing my head gasket and took the head to the machine shop. They just called and said its cracked . Is this common? Where is a good place to get one? Any input would be great.

Hey all, just looking for some ideas here. My truck has one of the cast iron eyelets, the ones on the head that the intake horn bolts screw into, broken off. It hasn't been a big deal because I have an aftermarket horn that uses studs and nuts instead of bolts. So I just have a nut on the other end, inside the intake plenum, with loctite to make sure it doesn't come off and get sucked in. I am about to take the intake horn off again to replace my powesteering pump and reseal my vacuum pump and I was wondering if I would be better off with a lock nut and loctite just as an extra safety to make sure that nut doesn't come off, but I'm not sure if that would be safe eith…

I was crawling around under the truck looking for problems and I noticed this cracked mount for the rear of the transmission. I was wondering if anyone else has seen this on their trucks. I searched but didn’t see any threads on it. What’s more, it looks like someone has tried to weld it previously, but it was never mentioned. My dad had the truck for a couple years but other than that I bought it new. The trans was out for a synchro replacement and shortly after that, the 5th gear nut fix. (Whole other story of clown work by a local mechanic). Anyway, I ordered a new bracket and will replace, but just thought I’d post something on it. I was hearing a bit of …

It's being a REAL bast*** !! got the starter off, the bolt holding the retaining clip out, and even popped the dipstick tube up. I Can turn it freely.... but the dang o-ring has got a death grip! Does that have a groove it indexes in? or am I facing a dozen years of heat making that oring a permanent part of the block? Last thing I want to do is break it off flush with the block! :banghead: going to spray some penetrating blaster.... maybe that'll help break loose the oring Am I missing something? - - - Updated - - - worked like a champ! hosed it down with pb blaster, and wiggled it around, then it came right out! …

So I got a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 24v. Put all new injector lines and vp44 on Saturday. Drove truck all day Sunday while shutting off/ restarting multiple times. Monday rolls around and drive the truck to work, go to leave work 12hrs later and truck won’t start. Have to bleed lines to get it to start. Tuesday morning have to do the same thing. Tuesday evening can’t get the truck to bleed and notice the gauges don’t work and LP won’t turn on by key. Come back Wednesday morning and truck fires right up and everything works. Get codes 1389, 1899, 1492, 1693. Go to leave work later that day and truck fires up and I let it idle for a couple minutes while I do stuff and get in to …

ok before i break this how does the crankcase vent {the big plastic piece not the hose] come off just twist it which way ? i want to extend the tube after i finish the injectors and adjust the valves also 8- 18 or 10- 20 on the valves?

Been meaning to get to this mod for a while. My radiator is getting covered in oil and dust sticking to it so it was time. I followed @Mopar1973Man's write up on this for the most part. I did reuse the hose from the oem vent. I cut off the "J" part of it and used the piece that kind of jogs over a bit. It's a tight fit getting the pvc in it but it works. To paint the pvc I used rustoleum satin black implement/industrial paint. Dries to the touch in about 15 minutes and seems to cover and stick to the pvc pretty well. Thought I'd share a couple pics.

So I've been thinking that I want to put a oil trap on my crank case vent. My biggest problem is that I dont want to spend $200 on a kit. As I was thinking about options for a home made setup, I got a crazy idea...why not use the stock fuel filter housing? I have a FASS 150 on the truck already, so that housing is just sitting there doing nothing. Im going to look at what all i would have to change on it to make it work as my oil trap. Any ideas/gripes/complaints or comments about the whole idea??

Ok guys i have a 98 24v that won't start. I have checked all fuese and relays , lift pump , crank shaft position sensor was just replaced. I an not getting a wait to start light on dash or the lift pump does not run when hooked up to the pig tail.

2002 24v recently had NO BUS problem but got it fixed. Still doesn’t start, fuel pressure gauge says 10-15 psi. There’s fuel at the injector lines on the head but not much. Won’t even start on ether, p0122 p0123 p1693 are my codes. VP44 less than a year old, air dog 150 gph and Edge juice bigger injectors are the only mods. I’m lost here and really need some help.

Awhile back I posted wondering if a VTSS system that I didn't think I have could be causing a no start , and no 25 sec LP run that I was experiencing occasionally , I got no response . This no start was happening it seemed after the bats were disconnected for a few days while doing other things to the truck , and then it would run again. I had just replaced the ECM so I wondered if it was causing the problem , but the WTS was working ,LP 2 sec run with key to run worked and the cluster was also , when it ran it was fine , no codes , tach was not misbehaving So it happened again after the truck had been sitting for a few days - bats where still…