2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I got the issue with the torque converter acting up sorted out and now this... The gremlins didn't stay away long. I am now getting random drop outs of the tach and the CEL comes on and it has 0336 codes. I just changed out the CKP sensor awhile back after it developed these same symptoms but now they are back. Either the sensor I installed is a POS (I did get it from Autozone) or there is something else going on.

I HAVE A 98 24 VALVE WITH 165 k miles. I am getting a crank position sensor code set. This happens only near wide open throttle. The tach goes crazy and the check engine light comes on. when checked the only code is p0331. I have previously replaced the part but the code comes back. After doing a fair amount of reading I decided to check the fuel pressure. It reads 13 at idle and will stay there until i get close to 2500rpms or so at which point it will drop to around 8 pounds maybe. the needle flutters pretty bad. The truck also at that point runs like ____.So my questions are do I need to replace the crank position sensor , replace the lift pump, or should I do some mor…

Okay guys, I been looking online and off to find something to address my crank seal problem. I have not tore into the truck yet to see whats going on. But I would rather get equipped with the necessary parts just in case. Nothing worse than opening things up and taking the time to do it and by the time you realize you need something, the stores are closed!So, I have been looking into the repair sleeve that goes onto the crank. It goes by the common name of speedy(i) sleeve.I found that cummins makes one to address this problem. I also found that O'reilly's makes a kit to address this as well.The cummins one on puredieselpower is like $114. I can't find it now, but I saw b…

For any one here that has or had or will have a leaking CRANK SEAL or Timing gear Cover...check out the link below..."hope it works" LOL. I installed mine a while back and took plenty of photos incase any body else had to do this, it might make it easier... http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Crank%20seal%20install/ SLIDESHOW VIEW http://s1209.photobucket.com/albums/cc389/rburks1/Crank%20seal%20install/?albumview=slideshow Richie --- Update to the previous post... I apologize Guys.. the photos are not any order like from start to finish...i tried to do this 3-times and thought i had them arranged that way but after i post…

Ok in the crankshaft seal kit, it comes with a couple things. The instructions are extremely vague about the parts. In this pic: http://media.photobucket.com/image/cummins%20crank%20seal/FiveNdime/Forum%2520Stuff/CumminsCranshaftseal.jpg It shows the seal, install sleeve and a piece of metal ring. I dunno what the other black rubber ring is, as I have not had one of them in my kits I bought. Although, I have gotten the metal rings in mine. It does not say what it is for and when I first removed the dampener, there was never one between the crank seal and dampener. Anyone have any idea what it is for? If its important to have, I need to know soon, as I have a new crank …

I attempted to change out the crank sensor today. And of course, it broke off. I screwed in a long screw and pried with a pry bar, it moved a short distance, but is wedged in there pretty tight and won't move any further. I'm considering drilling it and removing it in pieces. Input? Any other ideas?

So the past few days when I drive my truck The tach will sometimes bounce around until i let off and it idles then it will work and stay perfect still. Then I go to give is gas again and it works then all of a sudden bounces around then works. But just yesterday it seemed it was idling a little more i guess choppy than normal then seemed to run better later on after it was shut off. I put a code reader on it and got p0336 which is crank sensor A circuit range/performance. Also got p1690 which is a guess a communication error with the ECM and crank sensor I think. So should I just replace my crank sensor? Is there anything special you have to do other than remove the start…

Hello y'all I have a 99 5.9l 2wd 5spd man and the crank position sensor code is being thrown. I recently replaced this with an OEM part and after a few months the code is coming back. From what I understand this issue can be caused by a loose tone ring. However, I cannot find out the exact placement despite searching multiple times and places. Is the tone ring in the block and do I have to drop the oil pan to check and tighten it? The only other thing I am finding may be an issue is the ECM itself, if that is the case I will get rid of the truck at this point. Thank you for your assistance and any insight you may have. Ed

Truck has a new injection pump and lift pump. Injectors were replaced last year. New CPS... has fuel to injection pump but very little to injectors. Injector lines to 1, 3, and 4 are cracked open. Number 3 gets a small amount of fuel, numbers 1 and 4 get none. Borrowed a good ECM and still just cranks. The injection pump was tested and it is good. Has a brand new air dog raptor 100 lift pump. Truck has 17 psi to isspro gauge when you turn key on... when cranking it has 12 psi. RPM sits around 250 when cranking. Injection pump has 12.2 volts to connection. Overflow valve is good at 13.5 pounds. Not sure what is causing the problem at this point need help.

Hi all, My 2000 ram 2500 cranked, but would not start. I managed to get it started and it got me home, but the tachometer said 0 for the whole ride. I scanned it and got p0336 which is a crankshaft position sensor fault. I put a new one in (from rock auto), cleared the code, and when I went to start it, same problem- The starter cranks, but no start. The RPM's stayed at zero when it was cranking. I haven't had great luck with rock auto, so i bought a CKP sensor from advance auto with a lifetime warranty. Put it in, tried to start it and the same exact problem! it cranks but does not start. At this point, i figured it's an electrical issue…

My truck has the stock crankcase breather bottle. It is making quite the mess and getting oil all over the underside. Got a few questions however as when I am sitting on level ground at a stoplight I see smoke coming from both sides of my truck. I can take my oil fill cap off and smoke comes out of that hole and I see smoke coming from my crankcase breather when I shut my truck off. It appears to be smoke coming from my crankcase breather but I wanted to make sure I possibly don’t have a bigger issue since I am getting smoke coming out of the valve cover oil fill hole. I don’t recall this issue previouslay but have noticed a stronger smell of oil as of lately as well. I d…

If this is not posted in the correct place please let me know. Today i started tearing down my truck to replace the tappet cover gasket and check for the KDP. When i pulled the rubber hose from the crankcase breather i found the nipple is broken. It has a big chunk gone. I cant see paying $100 for this thing. If anyone has one sitting around not being used that they want to sell please let me know a price with shipping to Kentucky, zip code 40216. Thanks in advance for any help.

I am seeing and experiencing the problems all of you are talking about with the current stock crankcase vent and bottle. I am thinking about trying what I call a crankcase vapor condenser. I do not think it would work in those situations where the down hill angle would cause the oil to flow out. Following is a posting and update that I have put on a different diesel forum. OK! OK! Don't laugh me off the site! And I have the empirical proof! Unfortunately, I am not able to find the link any more, if I do I will post it. Basically, you make a condensation jar and put it inline of your PCV vacuum. For us GM dieselers this would be inline with our CDR. I have had one …

OK, so I feel dumb even asking this question.. but I'm looking at the front of my engine and don't see a hose, bottle, vent or anything like it. What I think I'm looking at is just a smooth timing cover. D oes that make sense? I crawled under the truck and see what looks to be the vent/blow-by hose but it runs back up into the side of the block above the stock LP location. So, am I really dumb enough to be missing it somehow??

Hey guys, Just going to do the crankcase vent mod and I'm wondering whether or not you guys have glued your joints, or just pushed them together? I'm assuming "slip fitting" means you just slip them together and friction does the rest.. but figured I'd better double check. Thanks!

The main issue with OEM crankcase vent is it is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case. The piece of hose elbows over the case and points down towards the ground. There are two versions of this crankcase. One involves a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other does not. A Technical Service Bulleting (TSB) was released on this issue as well: TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow). This bulletin warns of potential of extreme loss of oil from a truck descending at to steep of a slope while off-roading. During this loss of oil, oil also has been known to scatter all over the engine and radiator. This scattering of oil c…

I have been looking for the Crankcase Vent on my 98.5 24 Valve Cummins. I can not find it so I looked in the Haynes Dodge Repair Manuel. On page 2B-8 photo 9.3a it shows a 1994 thru 1998. On page 2B-9 photo 9.3d it shows a photo of the 2000 model. No where does it show or refer to a 1998.5 or 1999 Crankcase Vent. The oil filler cap on the valve cover does not appear to be vented, there must be a Crankcase Vent some where on this Cummins. Any one know?

Replaced my heater core last night, which was oh so fun, and came out to flush the coolant and refill this morning and now the truck will not start. It just cranks and cranks...When I dropped the dash I unhooked the 2 wiring harnesses from the column, the vacuum lines from the hvac controls and the 2 heater fan connections. Under the hood I had to disconnect and remove the computer on the passenger firewall to get to the heater box bolts. Other than that I can can't recall any other wires that may have been missed in re-assembly. Currently truck is sitting 80% drained of coolant with the lines off, fuel pump is working fine. I kicked on the heater controls to check a…

I am on my 3rd fill up with 1oz of Super Tech 2cycle per gallon of fuel. Maybe coincidence! I use to bump the starter and engine immediately fired up. Now it takes 2-3 seconds of cranking. Stock transfer pump installed 36,000 miles now at 98,500 miles. Fuel pressures no load on truck: Idle 14psi, 75mph 10psi, on interstate WOT 8-9psi - this is monitored before the fuel filter. Fuel filter changed 94,000 miles FS19598 Fleetguard. Recent fill up 178 mile trip with 301 mile trip next day and there was a vacuum when removing OEM cap on tank. Even if I bump starter and pressure builds still 2-3 seconds of cranking. Any ideas

2001 Ram 2500, 5 speed, 4x4, 183k, 5.9 Cummins i was going about 50mph after driving about an hour, I got a dead pedal intermittently for about 10 seconds, then the truck died. It cranks strong, but will not start. No signs of any combustion whatsoever. Will fire off with a spray or two of ether but dies as soon as ether is burnt up. Codes: P0122, P1693, and heater grid code (can't remember the code number) Filter bowl full of fuel. Fuel filter changed about 3 weeks ago. 15 psi out of the lift pump. Swapped fuel relay. Swapped cam position sensor. Opened line out of ignition pump and have fuel when cranked. Opened line at #1 inj…