2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

The truck is a 1999 5.9 Cummins, for the past 6 months I've had intermittent problems which ultimately led to a no start, use to buck horribly until I turned it off and back on again, and it would run fine for sometime then back to bucking. Injectors are new, injection pump is new, so is lift pump. I recently took my ecm to get tested but they said they couldn't test it cause I tried to break into it (rookie mistake, I should've left it for the pros) which led me to buying a used one that came off a 2001 cummins, and still a no start, any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you

Is it true that our auto transmissions don't reach full cooling capacity until lockup in 4th gear? I have not got my Posi-lock installed yet and I doing a tow with my travel trailer this weekend. So when going up a paved steep road that would normally be in second gear for a few miles. Should I disconnect the vacuum line and run in 2 wheel drive low range in 4th or 5th gear for optimum cooling of transmission? I don't have a Trans temp gauge yet to monitor.

I have a 2002 24v and i have recently intsalled a Quadzilla and now have serious problems. Truck ran fine before i installed it and now it I have 3 codes p0236 p1690 and p0216. Exhaust is always a constant white smoke when motor is warm or cold and have excessive blow by and oil. When its cold it has a dead pedal then when it gets warm after 30min of driving the boost on the iquad app is always reading 48 pounds of boost then it runs alot better but have to have the power level ag atleast set to 4 for no dead pedal. like i said before i installed the quad it never had any problems.

Yea. As of today I had to drop my sub-level again. Getting to smokey as summer time started coming on and noticing more and more smoke as I would be towing and/or launching with a heavy foot. I'm wondering if others have notices anything like this with warmer weather? No ill-effect to MPG's at all but the smoke level is slightly higher now than was during the winter time. I'm also wondering is the injectors changing for like a break in process and flowing more?

Hey guys got a question for ya has anyone ever removed there crankshaft position sensor mine is right between the starter and the stock lift pump? My problem is that upon removal the factory service manual says to twist as you pull to remove it upon doing so the plastic housing disinigrated leaving me with a little quarter inch nub, any suggestions for getting this thing out without dropping the oil pan since I would need to drop the transmission to get the oil pan off, other than that I was thinking maybee drive a screw into it?Thanks in advance

After everything I have read on the internet I understood that the PCM off my truck had to match not only the make, model, transmission etc but also numbers mine being P56046355. I was sold a PCM by a gentleman who swore up and down that a 2002 would work on my truck. It doesn't work and now I need some help purchasing a PCM. Can this PCM be programmed to fit my truck? Is this gentleman correct when he says he asked his friend who knows all there is to know about Dodge, cummings etc? I need my truck back ASAP and I have let different people tell me different things and at this point I need to know what has to be done to …

I am going to be doing a complete fluid change on my 01. I am looking for a recommendations on what fluid you guys are running or what works best in these 24 valves. I will be doing coolant, engine oil, atf fluid, and rear diff. Should I run any additives? Manual says to run something in the rear diff. Truck has a little over 80,000 miles on it and is an auto trans. It is a tow rig 75% of the time but not a daily driver. Looking for good quality stuff that is affordable and readily available. Is there anything else I need to do while I am doing all this??

Aloha - I am back from Hawaii! And apologies if this was answered already somewhere else. Here is what happened: It's a gen II 2002 24 valve diesel 3500 Changed VP44 and ECU in Jan 16 - truck ran fine other than issue with TPS - which we changed as well (sometime spring 16). Had "no-start" issue with error 1689 a couple of weeks ago and swapped out the fuel relay for a new one - truck ran fine but pretty rough - felt like missing cylinder. Today truck started, drove around for a bit (but ran rough); we shut it down, tried to restart a while later and now, no start again. Pulled codes and it is now reading 1689 and 1690 - swapped re…

Finally put a Bhaf on the truck, but now with straight pipe 4” (outlet currently under the truck, no tip), no silencer ring (does the ring create any congestion?) and a bhaf, it is just getting too loud. Contemplating whether I need just a muffler, just a resonator, a combo resonator/turbo (Jones/aeroturbine) or a separate resonator (under the cab) and a big muffler further back. thoughts/experience?

Ok, so I bought this truck a few months ago. It was about 4 hours away so I had it shipped home after I went and looked at it. I got a great deal on it. The transmission was completely gone so I ordered a Firepunk Street/Strip trans. It also ended up having a burnt valve which was unexpected. After comparing pricing with machine work and/or just purchasing a new a head I went with a new loaded head from Promaxx. I swapped out the stock valve springs for Hamilton 103lb vavle springs and used ARP Head studs in place of the factory head bolts. Everything is good there. So now after the transmission, head, starter and wheel bearing were all replaced I'm having an issue with …

I bought my truck 6 months ago with only 47,000 miles on it. It had sat for almost 4 years with a dead VP44. Before even starting or cranking the engine I changed the oil and filter. After running it for about 2,000 miles I started getting a very bad odor in the cab when I would stop at a stoplight or stop sign. Finally tracked the smell down to the engine oil. Starts getting that horrible stench around 2,000 miles or so. Any ideas on what it possibly is? Planning on getting oil analysis done as soon as I can get the trans problem taken care of and start driving it again.

Couple days ago i removed the "air inlet tube", the big hose from air filter box to the turbo. The hose has particles I've never seen before. Wix filter only has about 2800 miles on it. Many miles from the maintenance schedule "light duty "B" of "inspect/replace every 15,000 miles". Folding air filter in half, I can see semi loose strands bewteen the pleats waiting to be sucked in. About same size of 3 days of no shaving. Never noticed it before... Is this normal?

so this might be a bit long , please bear with me . working of a 2001.5 quadcab 4x4 diesel 2500 automatic ( single piece rear drive shaft ) less than 150,000km I'm getting vibration around 80km +/- 10-15 km ( starts around 70km , goes away over 100 km ) it feels like a drive shaft or bad u joint . ( but drive shafts are good ) started off with swapping the rims and tires over to another balanced set ( both sets of wheels where clean , no mud , and weights where in place ) .... vibration still there went through the rear diff and rear drive shaft , all good , replaced rear brake pads and joints in drive shaft ( joints where still good )..... vibr…

Hi this is my first time posting. I got a 01 quadcab cummins from my girlfriends grandfather that passed away . It has the h.o. motor and a 6 speed standard. Back in 08 he put a new motor in and had problems with the tach ever since. Now that i have the truck i had it idling with my scanner plugged in and the tach says its idling at 500 rpm. The scanner says 800 rpms. When the scanner is reading 3000 rpms the tach says 2000 rpms. Other than that it runs good . Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Also my redline on my tach is at 3000 rpm which is odd because every other cluster ive seen is around 3300-3400

I have had weird electrical problems with the truck for years. But never let me down except original vp44 crapped out a year in a half ago and replaced it. My belt snapped in my driveway Recently and I needed to get new battery as well so I decided to inspect clean or replace a few grounds and do a few things on the truck. Battery, 2 new terminals, oil filter change and fuel filter change add a new fp gauge sensor and buy all new fuses for the truck while Inside and out and new tensioner because it was worn out. Did fluids first started truck with old belt ran perfect for a min and belt came off again so i shut it down immediately. then i disconnect batts and started re…

Hello guys, I recently purchased a 2001 Dodge 3500 5.9 5spd to pull my equipment. My equipment weighs roughly 15k plus my 25ft dual tandem axle trailer. The guy that had the truck installed a 62mm turbo, 125hp injectors and adrenaline tuner. On level 3, the truck black smokes so bad that I can’t even see my equipment and don’t really build much boost until about 2k rpm. Took it to my mechanic and ended up having a cracked head. Ended up getting a new head, changed the tuner to a edge and still have the same issue with to much smoke and not enough power. Mechanic is suggesting to go with a smaller injector size. Any suggestions? Thanks

as my first post i would like to thank you guys for teaching me so much, however i am new to the dodge world and there is so much to learn! i have read that the key trick will not work to check for codes on a 2001 24v. is this true?i do the key trick and i get "P done." the reason why i'm asking is my truck feels a little sluggish. i'm getting good fuel pressure 16-17 idle & 12 WOT. no hard starts, sometimes a little gear hunt once in a while but nothing major. just wondering about the APPS. my truck just hit 81,xxx miles and i am concerned about things that might possibly need maintenance. i got my fuel pressure under control and i'm running 2-cycle oil in my fuel (t…

Hey fellas working on this 1995 12 valve p pump. The location is right where the cylinder head Mets the engine block I believe. Is it coming from the head gasket? Pics attached. Thanks!

So, I decided to start a new thread on this. My truck has been running like crap since I installed my 100hp ddp injectors. I know they set the pop pressure at 290, which is low. But when it's idling, or driving under light throttle it almost sounds Iike it has a fuel knock. Not sure what is going on, but is there any reason why I can't pull them and set pop pressure to 320? Not sure if this will help or not. They are really smoky, which is the nature of them I guess, but it leaves a slight clearly visible haze even driving under lite throttle, so not sure if there are other underlying issues. Truck does have a airdog 100 and a new vp.

I have a 2000 Ram 3500 Cab & Chassis NV4500. When I got the truck, it had a P-pump converted big turbo 24v built for pulling in it, but I bought the truck and not the engine. I pulled that engine and bought a wrecked 1999 dodge 2500 that ran fine but they needed the VP44 off the engine. So I did the engine swap on this truck, pulled the p-pump motor out and put the stock 2000 engine in it. I used the ECM from the 5 speed truck I currently have and a new VP44. I put a new MAP sensor, APPS, and IAT on the engine while it was out to make things easier. The problem that I have, is that the engine goes into a "limp mode" or defuels. I know the 2000 doesn't have a limp mode…