2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,288 topics in this forum
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Since I blew my serp belt I've noticed I'm dripping some oil spots. Maybe the overheated situation caused some kind of change to the gaskets? Any ideas?
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hi y'all, I am about to check out a non-running 2001. Seller claims that vp44 is bad. It has a swapped 56 block together with a 5 speed with around 150k. I am wondering how would I be able to tell the health of the engine, as apparently test drive is not possible. Or, should this truck be absolutely avoided?
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Does anyone know of a set of airbags that will work on a 99 2500 4wd that mount over the axle not the leaf springs (so I can keep my over loads) and they need to work with a goose neck or fifth wheel mount.
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Hey guys I hope you can answer a simple (hopefully) question. Lately I've noticed my pressures dropping on my DDRP. I did some research and didn't realize there is the infamous ball and spring pressure relief in that model as well. So I stretched the spring out a 1/4 inch like most recommend and now my pressures are pretty high. At idle I'm around 24 psi and 17 at WOT. Is 24 psi too high for idle or is it OK? The ball looked to be in great shape unlike some of the deformed pics I've seen. Thanks in advance. D
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My old trans had 350k and still had good detent between gears, let go of shifter and it still had spring in it in other words. It just didnt wont to stay in 5th gear. So I find a rebuild shop in San Antonio, 975 bucks, said a lot of new parts didnt come out and say what new parts, but anyway. I get it home and the first thing I do is open the fill plug and have a look see. Well I should have stopped at the sludge on the in side of the plug and took it back, but NOOOO I keep going, take the plastic cap off where the shift tower goes and there is more paint on the in side than there is on the out, and a little more sludge. I am thinking I should call the SOB, well he's clos…
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Is there a way to look at smog test results and figure out what an "up grade" would do to a smog test? Like injectors for example, anyway using math to "guessimate" what a new smog test would be? I would hate to buy some upgrade stuff and then fail smog test. The state (WA) I'm in uses the "transparity" test I'm told. Also found out my truck has been licensed as "gasoline powered" for long time. Maybe that's the reason several smog tests ago, the guy looking at his smog machine said to bring RPM's up to 3,000. Believe it or not, the license people can't change the title back to diesel by looking at VIN or lifting hood and seeing the big words across th…
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For the last two day after I get off work at 6pm. I am leaving work and before I get out the driveway of work my apps reads 101%, truck goes to idle, I loose the throttle till I tap it twice and then it will come back. I get the P0121 code. Has anyone else experienced this? Then only thing I know to do it run the apps test posted on this forum. The temp here here has been around 100 degrees.
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I've got a weird one that just started up. First off I've got a brand new fan belt. I've check all pulleys and bearings. No loose bearing and all pulleys spin freely and grooves are clean. The noise is coming from only the A/C pulley. Turning on the A/C has no impact in the noise level. Now in all my messing around, I managed to get the belt to ride on top of the high points of the grooves for the A/C pulley and the noise was gone. So I took the time released the belt and made sure it was back down in the grooves again. Now the squeak returns. I've tried some of my older belts I kept for spares with no change. I've power washed all the pulleys with degreaser and solvent. …
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"T" fitting in fuel line to pressure gauge is leaking. What's best to stop leak? Epoxy glue, thread locker, tephlon tape? This type of fitting in link. Not many threads to it and thin aluminum. http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-7221-gdp-pushlok-fuel-pressure-sender-tee-38-12.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3_SRouC21QIVD3R-Ch18VQxUEAQYCCABEgKsS_D_BwE Thanks
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Hi All I am trying to help my friend who just got his truck back form someone that borrowed it and returned it in less than IDEAL Condition. 1999 5.9L 2500 2WD When you go start it (it will start) but then just REVS to very high RPM. We were able to borrow another computer form a local 99 5.9L and it didn't do that and acted much better with the swapped ECU. Locating an "affordable" part seems to be a pretty big issue. I think I am able to locate a 2000 ECU for a fair price. But form what I understand it will need to be programed by Someone to make it work with the 99 correctly!? Ebay Link: http://www.ebay.co…
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Thought I would put in needle valve in fuel pressure line, I'm using elec gauge. In the directions, Auto meter (gauge maker) says in couple different places says to use snubber. I like the idea of needle valve, if nothing else valve can used as shut off valve to that line. Still going to put in snubber (just to be safe) . 100 DF air dog. Branching off fuel line about where motor meets trans. Question........... The Needle valve, where is best position? All the way open or slightly open? Or just play with it a bit to find best position? Your thoughts please.
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I've owned my Dodge for over 4 years now, and have upgraded the lift pump, which is the raptor 100 gph on the side of the block, edge ez, 4 inch exhaust, and I believe it has at least 60hp injectors that were installed by the previous owner. I am at 400 rwhp now, tested at the hunting for horse power up in cda. My question that I am asking, why is my fuel pressure dropping down 5psi at WOT? I have spent many hours trying to find information on this, and its hard to get a definite answer. the Diesel mechanic I take my truck to says its normal, but I know its not, especially since my truck will start to stutter if I let off the pedal after stomping into it for to long( by n…
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Well I hate to say that word head gasket, but I got oil bubbling out of front right, by head bolt just to the right looking from front( I got ARP's from po. ) It bubbles tiny little bit from head gasket and running down front cover, not enough to drip on the ground yet. Wondering where is a good place to get parts from, like a gasket set and whatever else I may need. Though about mabe going through the turbo but want to up size to at least a hybrid, so might just leave it be. Another thing is I already have ARP studs but not sure which ones, how do I tell, I know there is more than one choise. Will need to know torque on them when putting the hradon backnowledge on. Can I…
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hello I'm in need of I guess the upgraded suspension I can get like tie rod links and stuff supposively from a newer model ?? I preffer moog ball joints and stuff but what else can I get to beef it up for allignement soon to get a bluetop steering box and stabilizer I have a problem solver trac bar
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I can't seem to get my switch to work. I just left a friend and the local dodge house and he varied that the high idle was on. What do I do to get it to work?
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I am have a problem where my APPS never reads 100% throttle. I am going to try and keep this short. The truck is basically stock except for a Quadzilla Adrenaline. The stock APPS sensor started acting up in Jan. It was causing the truck to die will driving and lurk forward while stopped. I replaced it. I thought everything was good. 2 weeks ago the truck started doing some hesitating. Maybe once every 4 days or so. Then started doing it more will throwing the CEL, P0121. The truck would die and then once the idle was low would act like nothing happened. I took the APPS back and got a new one. Then notice while it was hooked to a computer that the throttle at full…
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It was finally time for front rotors and pads so I went ahead and did the 3rd gen caliper brackets, rotors and pads. I've ordered the brake line kit @jlbayes suggested a Russell 694540 as well. All I can say is it's well worth doing! Thanks @trreed for the positive report back after doing the conversion and towing with them...and I "borrowed " your pad comparison picture from your thread.
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Just wanted to post my experiences here for others to learn from my mistakes! Went through my 1500 mile trans filter change and band adjustment yesterday. All went relatively smooth, front band adjustment was pretty straight forward. Draining the fluid was a synch with the Goerend pan and drain plug. Dropped the pan and adjusted the rear band, installed new filter and got everything else plugged up. Put back in the fluid and fired up the truck, let sit for 30 seconds or so, and went to head around the block. As soon as the truck went to shift into 2nd it felt like the truck was trying to throw me through the windshield! Slowed down and tried to spe…
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OK so I recently rebuilt my 47re and have just over 1000 miles on it now . right around the 800 mile mark I started getting a pretty noticeable 2-3 bind up and I've been chasing my tail trying to catch it ever since.when I rebuilt the transmission I originally put in a superior front servo, the one with the sleeve and 2 o rings that restricts the release oil flow. I thought that was my problem so I swapped it out for a new billet double ring, double spring servo with billet cover. That didn't cure it either. I'm all ears at this point, everybody I've talked to says go with the TCS servo and there 4.2 lever and it'll go away. But I'm not ready to drop the trans to change t…
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