2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

ok.. guys well... my steering box showed me signs for a while it was on its way so i dont blame the box. It had developed a leak over a month ago.. Anyways, doing 60mph on an offramp getting to my house going around the curve, it decides to go. All of a sudden it shoots straight and had to correct it by almost a full turn on the steering wheel.. i made it through and steering was really loose and leaking a little more. i made it home safely. I really wanted to get this out there to you guys that like to live on the edge. I ordered a Redhead steering box and 4 Synergy ball joints ...ball joints have been bad for few months atleast. I was going to install th…

Ok after all the help on here i decided to go with a reman nv500 from haisly machine im going with a 01 so it will have the 1 3/8 input. Now will the larger flywheel and clutch fit with no issues as long as i get the starter spacer and what clutch do yall recomend for a stock to 500hp truck to tow with

Hello everyone, long time no talk. Life has been busy and health has been bleh... Long story short i was coming back from utah for a friends wedding and he was moving as well. I towed the uhaul trailer 6'x12' densly packed and very very heavy. Had no problems going through the mountains on HWY 80 EB till about 80 mi from lariamie WY. I was heading up a very long grade and towards the top something bad happened. Here are the stats of when it happened speed 70 gear 6 EGT under 1250 (no more than 60 seconds@1250, i saw it and turned the cruise off and throttled down) boost around 20psi rpm appx 1800~ cant remember exactly but was below 2000 oil psi normal ~6…

Report: Took My alternator off and to a local Alt/Starter rebuild shop. To double check it for bad diodes. My alternator bench tested OK . He then took the back off and to check the diodes individually with a meter, and I had "1" bad diode I was charging Volts: D.C. 14.30 and My A.C. was .055+/- Moparmans video, he checked Volts at: DC 14.25, AC .005-.015 IIRC The Alternator Shop (Jason) Ordered a new Rectifier/diode pack about $25 and Im putting in new brushes $9.00 as long as I had it apart. The above numbers are a reference to go by . My Alternating Voltage Test A.C. .055+/- I thought was ok , But I did actually have 1 bad diode. There are …

Well I have been curious just to see what an average EGT range for the VP powered trucks. I run between 600-700 pre-turbo anywhere from 55-75 MPH usually at 0-3 psi of boost. My truck has 100hp(7x.009 SAC) injectors, a 62/68/14 wastegated turbo, factory air box with a modified opening, 285/70R17, low stall converter, done rite valve body and 3.54 rear gears. Like I said just curious to see what people average.

I have an airtex lift pump and it has been great. I changed my fuel filter last night and went to bump the starter and got nothing. My pump in the past has always run after bumping the starter. I got the truck running and the fuel pressure was fine: 18 PSI idle, 14 PSI cruise, never below 12PSI. I have stock fuel lines so it is going to drop a little more than bigger fuel lines. Any thoughts as to why the fuel pump didn't run when I bumped the starter? Would it be some sort of relay issue, computer issue, or just fuel pump issue?

I have a 99 Cummins with 109,955 miles on it. I have noticed I had white smoke coming out of the blow by tube but not anything noticeable unless im stopped for a few minutes. if I take the oil cap off it blows a little white out of it but not like clouds of it. So next I did the oil cap test and removed it and flipped it upside down and it didn't bounce around or move (except a little due to vibrations of the engine). the truck runs awesome no lack in power perfect pick up and go, it doesn't smoke except a little black on start up and doesn't eat coolant or oil. No knocking either. The oil pressure is around 30-35 at idle and at normal cruising speeds of 55mph at aro…

Good Morning all, well it seems like every 6 months or so this issue returns, i just slayed that dragon last night and its really getting old. my battery clamps are not going to take much more of this before needing to replace them so here is the low down on the recent findings, the Ground on the primary battery has the acid build up, the other three did not. the problem was only presenting itself at speed between 40 and 50 (in the past, this would happen at any speed above 40mph in OD) i have a switch that i can use to kill my alternator (story for another time) so i killed it thinking it could be related to the alternator and the heat we been having. nope is…

I'm getting my truck set up for a winch on a removable mount, that way I can use it in multiple applications. I have a qwadzilla programmer and instructions say disconnect the module before jumping the vehicle, or immediate damage will accrue. My question is, how do you guys use your winches. Or is it only quwadzilla that have that problem. I really don't want to unplug it every time I got to use the winch or even give someone a jump. Unless I'm thinking of this all wrong and it only apply when my truck is dead and someone is giving me a jump.

I have a 99 24v 2500 2wd Mostly happens when truck warmed up' It will drop out of OD and sometimes then drop to 2nd. I have dome all the cleaning up etc. I have fresh pink fluid no slipping just wont stay in od mostly. A funny thing is when it does this if you set the cruise it will take off running faster.Trans was rebuilt according to previous owner but don't know who. I have been told that the shifts are controlled by electric in trans. Have not but do intend to replace VSS, but got a feeling it is more then that. Thank you for any help [i do have a new alternator on way for lock/unlock problem.

I don't know if anyone is running an enviroguard breather out there, but I just picked one up, and I need to figure out how to get the unused dipstick plug out to install the oil return line. I understand that different plugs were used over the years. Mine appears not to have a lip on it at all, and is just a cylindrical plug pressed in. Any ideas how I should remove it?

I have been experiencing dead pedal some times it is as soon as I take off other times I can drive for 30 min before any bucking happens. I have already replaced the APPS with a new one and it worked fine for about a week or more then it started again. What could be the cause of this to make the sensor keep going out?

Hi Cummins Mopar Fans, Just wanted to give an update on my auto to 6 speed swap. I couldn't be happier. First off, I had everyone on here giving me things to try over the last eight (8) years to help me get my automatic problems solved, gear hunt fix, something like 6 altenators, ground cleaning, let alone hundreds of hours researching trying to find a cure. I want to thank Whie98Lightning for suggesting a swap after he sent me a diagram for the TC lockup switch. Mine even wanted to hunt w the switch on. Like he told me & I agree, that (the switch) was the only thing I could do to keep driving the truck. Also, all the deap pedal issues are gone, the truck seem…

What size Tube or pipe do I need for connecting BHAF to the TURBO Boot?? I've been running it for years without one and just soft clamping it over the lip on the BHAF but now i don't think that such a good idea after my latest turbo compressor wheel issues. Compressor wheel was pitted and DAMAGED BY WATER as was told to me by ATS.

Ok, so I bought this truck a few months ago. It was about 4 hours away so I had it shipped home after I went and looked at it. I got a great deal on it. The transmission was completely gone so I ordered a Firepunk Street/Strip trans. It also ended up having a burnt valve which was unexpected. After comparing pricing with machine work and/or just purchasing a new a head I went with a new loaded head from Promaxx. I swapped out the stock valve springs for Hamilton 103lb vavle springs and used ARP Head studs in place of the factory head bolts. Everything is good there. So now after the transmission, head, starter and wheel bearing were all replaced I'm having an issue with …

I had to put OEM filter box back in... mice promptly moved in, trashed filter element. So today I screened the filter with aluminum expander metal & self drill / self tap screws Long ago I used SS pot scrubber behind the hood hinges... where the cowl drains are. Water drains just fine but mice can't get into the heater.

Ok my 2000 nv5600 just died it has a broke gear and what looks to be broken syncro pieces laying in the bottom, the fluid was full and i was not towing i was in traffic at a light and it locked up, now i have a choice to make do i put $3000 in for i 5600 or convert to a nv4500 if i convert i know ill need the trans and bellhousing,flywheel, clutch and drive shafts. My question is will the 4500 bolt in place and will my tc bolt up and where can i find cheep drive shafts they are hard to find here

I'm sick of my isolator that goes to my ispro fuel pressure guage. Every so often I get low readings and I have to push back the rubber thingy in the isolator and fill it back up to get it to read right. Would it be safe to eliminate the isolator and have diesel go all the way to the gauge?

2000 with Raptor 150, Edge JWA, full 1/2" line from tank to VP, S&B intake. After sitting, she cranks and cranks (5-12 seconds) before starting, and then billows white smoke. I haven't noticed missing coolant so I don't think I'm losing compression via a bad headgasket. Had a bad starter that I replaced and oddly enough a bad vp ground at the same time but this didn't fix the issue. So this leads me to believe I'm losing prime since vp issues typically manifest when hot, not when cold. But my lift pump is tied into a toggle switch on the dash. I can turn on the pump and instantly be at 20 psi right before the vp, so even if I had a small leak, i'd push …

So I'm going to replace X-over tube o-rings and I have conflicting info, Book says torque injectors install tubes torque injector lines, I have read on this forum leave injectors loose (snug but not torqued), install tubes, torque lines, then torque injectors? Is one method better than the other? I understand reasoning, to help center tube on injector. Is the book overly confident that one could put the injector in the proper position the first time? I want to hear from people that have done it. Thanks