2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain

I need some help. I run a 2001 3500 2w drive dually 5 sp pulling a 40 gn trailer. Starting friday afternoon, my truck would get sudden power loses, usually in 5th gear. It will surge several times then resume operating normally. I might drive several hundred miles then out of the blue it will start surging again. I depress the clutch to see if it dies but it just goes to idle. When it's running right there is no problem, no lose of power and no misses. This is what I have done to it since march, I've put in a new lift pump, we have some wiring issues to the lift pump which was corrected and the block pump is completely out of the picture. The lift pump is an in tank mode…

How important is it to spend $1,200 on a clutch? I am looking at a auto to nv4500 conversion and am wondering for a mainly stock rig how important it is to go with a big a$$ clutch. Can I just get one from napa? Every time I turn around you guys want me to spend a thousand dollars. Lol.

Little story here just in case anyone is wondering if they should buy anything from DAP. I bought a set of injectors last spring because my copper washers were leaking compression back into the fuel tank and I figured at 180k with the injectors out I might as well throw in a new set. For 400 bucks I didn't have much to loose. Immediately I could tell the motor was much quieter and it had a ton more power. (Oh still getting 21+ mpg too) Within the last month or two I have developed a slight miss in the #3 injector which is progressively getting worse. I pulled it apart and found the pintle wasn't moving up and down easily even after cleaning thoroughly. I called Jacob and …

My 47RE is going out. Starting to chatter on low rpm lug in lock up and OD. I need to get my mind around gathering parts for the swap quick. Does anyone know how much I'll need to spend to get this done? Are there any sorurces that sell kit for reasonable prices? I have access to decent replacement auto transmissions locally for $1,500 tha have valve body upgrades, add $500 for removal and install and $1,000 for a torque converter and we are up to $3k. Can I do the swap for this amount if I do most of the labor myself? Kinda short on money. Saving for hip replacement surgery. Out of pocket looking like $5k plus living expenses while in recover.

So for those of you who saw my previous thread about my pump issues, you know that my fule pump is now hard wired into the battery. Because of this, the engine can't mandate defueling if I exceed the set boost level. So I'm planning on just getting a boost elbow since a boost fooler isn't really needed to trick my computer into thinking I'm at lower boost since it can't defuel. Anyone see a flaw in this? I feel like if this method worked, nobody would buy boost foolers.

With less that 100K and complete? Saw one for sale for $2K and was wondering if that was a good price.

Hey all, I've tried everything I can think of and I can't resolve this issue. My 2000 automatic won't start because the lift pump (raptor 150) won't turn on. I had only 3000 miles on it before it suddenly stopped working. So I checked my ASD relay and my fuel system relay, both were fine. So I unplugged the pump and bumped the starter and checked voltage with my multimeter. Got a healthy 12.3-12.7 volts. So I figued the pump was bad and got a new one under warranty. When the new one came in, the same issue continued. I figured maybe there was some glitch and the ECM was telling the motor to defuel because the check engine light with p1693 came on when it stoppe…

99 Ram 2500 4x4 auto 5.9 24V bought it with 89K on it now has 116K. The Issue I have is intermittently when it starts it has a ideal lope for about 5 to 10 seconds then ideals normally which around 740 -750 rpm... occasionally 800 rpm... The problem is/was magnified when I installed 75HP injectors... bigger lope like it had a big cam in or something... but again it would ideal normal after 5-10 seconds on it own or if gave it some pedal... it would also like to stall when putting it in reverse with the 75hp injectors sometimes... the problem is only at start up truck runs fine other then that... I put the stock injectors back in and still does it just at a smaller lope…

I thought there was a procedure on here but I can't find it. Can someone point me in the right direction?

So I have had to work 6 day a week for the past 3 months. So I'm done with that fun. Time to start my winter project. Back ground is I have a 4.0 jeep cherekee. Daddy is use to his s330 and 150 hp injector cummins. So here my question hy35 spool harder smaller hot side 9 instead of 12 but I am building this as a trail/ mud rig. Do I run the hx or hy I'm going to run 8 psi to start then when I get my stroker I'll run 14. I know this isn't cummins but this turbo are off the 24v and I have a hx35 that I toasted I can rebuild. Next question anyone have a hy35 they want to part with

Well everyone, was hoping that this was not the case but... Two mornings in a row I got in the truck and started driving. Truck drove fine to about 30 mph then stopped accellerating. Did not matter what I did with the throttle and I had zero boost. I turned around and started to head home then it picked back up and drove fine. Next morning no issues. Following morning it did like above but after driving a bit longer the boost came on fine and truck drove ok... Still this is not a good thing and finally this morning pulled the intake hose off of the turbo inlet. No real noticeable movement in the turbine up nor down but when I tried to turn it it sure seemed stiffe…

Is there a way to disconnect push lok fittings without cutting the fuel line? I need to check my bypass valve for debris on my fuel boss and I don't have a lot of extra fuel line if I cut it. I'm trying to diagnose my stall issue upon cold start up: the truck stalls/almost stalls when put into drive or reverse from a cold start. Once it's been run, it's fine the rest of the day. This started happening when I put my triple disc torque converter in. I have new injectors ready to go in, but connector tube o-rings won't be in till later this week. I'm guessing it's either low stall converter issues, debris in fuel line, or connector tube leak.

Hey guys, Just going to do the crankcase vent mod and I'm wondering whether or not you guys have glued your joints, or just pushed them together? I'm assuming "slip fitting" means you just slip them together and friction does the rest.. but figured I'd better double check. Thanks!

My 1998.5 Cummins is stock except for the air cleaner. I am not sure that my turbo is working as it should. I have the Auto Meter fp,op, and would like to add a Boost guage. When I haul a heavy load it is usually Hay Rolls or Cattle. My question is...Does the Boost guage indicate that the Turbo is working? and is it necessary to install a pyrometer guage as well. What guage range should I get. Pyro 0-1600 or 0-2000. Boost ..0-35...or..0-60.?

Hi all, new to this forum and do I have a good one. what we have here is a 2001 3500 drw 6 speed, chip is back to stock 4 inch exh and a k&n, other than that all stock. Ok here we go, I have a pile of codes and I don't always get the same ones when I clear them. 1693 0522 0117 1475 0237 0217 1295 0122 0127 these are the most common ones I get back when I ether clear them with disconnecting the batts or with a scanner or the smarty. The other thing is going on is the gages are all over the map, temp goes up to 240 and sets more chimes and things, oil gage intermittent, volt sometimes goes down when revving up and oh, the thing misses horribly. So these are the things I…

O.K. so I'm chasing a hard start issue and apparently a little air leak seems to be the kryptonite to the mighty Cummins. Everyone says replace sealing washers, connector tube O-rings and the return T. In my searching I've found many don't know where to get the parts and when they find out they come from Cummins they don't know the part numbers. I got on Cummins quick serve which I found difficult to navigate and finally found the parts and #'s, and added them to my cart. Trying to check out all I got was some Java bla,bla,bla message. I'm no IT guy and you should not have to be to use a website. I found out they have a central warehouse 50 mi. from me so I called them di…

I'm having a problem again with torque converter lockup I think. Symptoms are different though. I can be driving 70 and for a split second its like it misses then goes back to normal. Sometimes at 30-40 trans shifts back and forth. When this started I got an apps code cleared it and did the apps reset but didn't accomplish anything. The alternator I had rebuilt the first time was putting out 0.1v ac but now it jumps from 0.12 to 0.34 so I know that's a problem. I borrowed a snap-on verus to do some diag and I get a p1693 fault in companion module. There are no other codes showing up and I can't clear this one. I've cleaned all grounds and connections. Any ideas?

Is there a axle type identifier on the Dana axles? I need to order parts and want to know what I have. Not listed on my original sales invoice.

I was moving Hay Rolls yesterday and when on the freeway I could hear a rattle kind of like a gasser pinging under heavy throttle. When I reached the top of the hill the rattle stopped. I was running 55-6- mph. I am curious wondering about Injectors. I run 2 cycle oil from Wallmart @10z. per gallon but I filled up at the half tank mark but did not add the @ cycle oil. Could this be causing the pinging/ rattle? Or might I need to adjust the valves. Theres 202K on the clock.

This might seem like a stupid question but I would rather ask it than suffer a bad out come. I understand if you disconnect the batteries completely, you have to then reset the APPS when you connect the batteries back up… Yes, No??? If I want to clean the terminals, do I lose battery power if I only do one terminal at a time on one battery while leaving the other one hooked up?