2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
This is a discussion forum of the 1998.5 to 2002 2nd Generation Dodge Ram Trucks with 5.9L Cummins 24 Valve Turbo Diesel power train and drive line system. This includes all sub-system including wiring, fuel, oil, exhaust, air, transmission, computers and sensors.
6,287 topics in this forum
-
I have an 01 2500 I’m having an issue at idle, it sounds like it has a slight lope. I can see the variation in rpm on the dash and on my display for my programmer. It will only do it if I’m sitting in park. If I have it in gear it will not happen. It started last week. I just changed the fuel filter yesterday and dumped in a good amount of diesel Kleen. My fuel pressure doesn’t show any drop when it lopes. I have my sensor at the bottom of the fuel housing . It stays at 18psi. It will also lose prime if it’s parked up hill with the engine above the fuel tank ,but it has to sit for more than 8 hours before it loses prime. So I just back in my driveway ,and have no iss…
-
- 2 replies
- 3.2k views
-
-
My stock alternator is finally starting to go south and i have been looking at replacing it with a higher amp part. Anyone have any 1st hand experience with the Mechman 320 amp alternators? Its expensive at $500 with a 2 year warranty. They have a 240 amp alt for $400 but with my stereo and all the other electric crap I've added the 320 fits my needs better.
-
-
- 8 replies
- 2.4k views
-
-
I've been loosing prime lately. * Park nose downhill, starts fine - uphill, hard to start * Pressurized the return lines from tank filler neck, no fuel leaks visible (did hear a hiss from the top of fuel module - guessing take vent) * Checked all inbound and return connections, everything is dry (replaced sealing rings/grommets for banjo fitting in back of head and tee 10 months ago) * Oil level is fine So at this point I feel like all external fuel lines/connections are sound. I drive like an old man most of the time. However the other night, I turned the quad up a little and got on it for a few seconds. The n…
-
-
- 28 replies
- 6k views
-
-
Hi folks, I am looking to tap into the tranny oil on my 98.5 47RE transmission. I am unsure where to thread in the gauge temperature probe. I would rather not be reading oil temps after it has been though the cooler and is re-entering the tranny. I was thinking it would be better to read the hot oil as it exits the tranny. No? I was under the truck today looking around for a test port plug. On the RH side I see these two plugs as shown in the photo. Am I even on the right track here? If so, which one is preferred? Thanks, Keith.
-
-
- 14 replies
- 7.7k views
-
-
Anybody know where to get dust shields for a 1999 3500? None of the auto parts stores carry them. Also checked Dorman, Summit, and Amazon. No luck. I'd think somebody has to offer them.
-
-
- 28 replies
- 8.1k views
-
-
-
Unfortunately I found this code today while doing my normal checkup on my truck. I have a fuel pressure gauge in the mail right now and should be here middle of the week. And I am installing a fass 150 GPh pump hopefully tomm afternoon if all goes well.Could the wiring on top of the vp44 be shorted and throwing the code? Take it out and look at the wiring? I'm pretty good at saudering is this a job I can do if I see the problem or is there another quicker way to test the IP? Im new to this forum all advice is greatly appreciated thanks ahead of time!
-
- 15 replies
- 16.9k views
-
-
So the other day I made myself a switch panel. Gotta love 3d printing. One of the switches is a torque converter lockup switch Welp, it was getting dark and I tapped into the wrong line. I tapped into the apps wire. Oopsies. Orange and dark blue vs orange and black when it was starting to get dark out Ended up running it on my commute to work today, about a 30 minute drive. Surprisingly, the switch worked, just not as a lockup switch Turns out if you ground the apps wire, the truck will run properly, but the torque converter will hold whatever condition it was in when you flipped the switch So if you flip it while it'…
-
- 9 replies
- 1.2k views
-
-
Have trouble getting my old 2001 Cummins work truck to run. Truck ran great but was leaking fuel from drain plug on side of the fuel filter housing, so i changed it out. Truck was hard to start, then would run, but would die if i put it in gear. Did this acouple of times, then bucked and saw big cloud of grey smoke come out of tail pipe. Now truck is in what seems to be limp mode( iknow these older trucks dont have them) but truck will not go over 2000 rpm. Theres no more smoke at all, just has no power ,Thought maybe i had air in the fuel lines so ive tried first with the lift pump valve , and then cracked the injector lines, still nothing has changed. Totally stumped.
-
- 15 replies
- 3.1k views
-
-
Any advice - just thinking of doing it - just from what I have read.My head was replaced 1 yr back and decked and also a new gaskett.
-
-
- 16 replies
- 17.4k views
-
-
Hello folks, I browsed search bars and had some questions. I see there are some pre built tunes for different combos. I am going to be installing 362/475 compounds and a set of 150hp injectors, I see the different injector set ups but nothing to plentiful for a compound set up? Any direction or input would be great!
-
- 4 replies
- 1.1k views
-
-
-
First, my question. I have her all torn down to the point where I just have to remove the timing cover. Fingers crossed no grooves on crank. 222K on the clock. I bought a cummins seal at the dealer. Says cummins on the part. Question..... which way is OUT? Logic tells me this side should face INWARD towards the crank: And this side OUTWARD facing away from the crank: Reasoning, the second picture has a rotational marker. when facing you it is clockwise. when facing the front of the truck, the crank turns clockwise. Why am I asking? bc the plastic alignment piece is conical (cone sha…
-
-
- 84 replies
- 19k views
-
-
Hey Everyone, Currently in the market to lift my truck to get a little more clearance and also to put larger wheels on. I went to my local store and they’re pushing a rough country 3” lift, which replaces 4 control arms and the other option I was interested in was the skyjacker 2.5” lift with only 2 control arms being replaced. I’ve heard negative things about rough country, but I can’t find any substantial evidence online besides them being on the cheaper side of lifts. Does anyone have any experiences? Additionally, with this lift I will add a dual steering stabilizer and a steering gearbox brace to try to correct for a drift at 70m…
-
- 7 replies
- 2.1k views
-
-
I recently got my high idle switch and so far install went easy everything seems to be of decent quality, however. It will kick on the 3cyl warmup when put in 6cyl mode and nothing happens in 3cyl mode. Any input? I watched a video on it and the IAT and ECT switch to the correct numbers and the led is the correct color but it doesn't do what it should be doing. Any help on this? Thanks @Mopar1973Man
-
- 6 replies
- 1.5k views
-
-
I'm starting a new post about a previous issue. If this isn't kosher feel free to move it. So I stated my turbo only builds boost to 22psi,then that's it. It won't build boost until about roughly 2,200 rpm, and is using fuel like crazy. It's not smoking like a freight train, but still using too much fuel. The turbo specs are: Turbonetics T3 66/65/.84. I have stock size injectors in it for now, and I have the tow tune on my quadzilla. Is this turbo too big? Or should I suspect a boost leak? The turbo also has no wastegate. Just straight out the back to a 5" exhaust all the way back. I'm thinking this turbo isn't too big, and I can …
-
-
- 10 replies
- 1.6k views
-
-
Hi, I want install Isspro pyrometer gauge. Lots of well meant advise on YouTube etc., with some contradiction. Questions I have concerning probe placement are: 1) Which is it, the left or right side of the collector, and where? Halfway up, the middle, or top. 2) Do I Drill and Tap in place, or remove Turbo first. Despite the Dollar Store magnet cleanings I’ve watched, doing it in place has me looking up the cost of a replacement Turbo. Of course, removing the Turbo first will have its own challenges given age of fasteners. Any advice or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks Leaky
-
-
- 15 replies
- 5k views
-
-
-
Pictures will come later as they are buried in my phone but its really simple. As a disclaimer, use common sense, see what other things i've got done to my truck and take that into consideration before you do this. I am not responsible or liable for anything that happens. For what its worth i am working with a stock truck. No "real" mods or upgrades.. You will need- 1- Eye bolt (with 2 nuts and 1 washer) (i think 1/4 inch is what fits through the old wastegate holes) home depot for less than 5 bucks 1- extension spring from napa part# 7704099 (balkamp) about 2 or 3 dollars 1- 1/8 pipe plug to plug hole in turbo compressor housing lef…
-
- 5 replies
- 4k views
-
-
Beginner question... In process of gathering new battery terminals, both batteries are out right now. Once cables are fixxed... Is there a certain sequence I'm supposed re-connect them or pull any fuses first or anything else I should do before connecting? Thanks
-
-
- 19 replies
- 3.2k views
-
-
Ok I'm really hoping I am not going to be in the market for an injection pump. Recently my truck started cutting out under moderate to heavy acceleration. Cruising at about 30% load on my quadzilla readout it seemed ok but if I got into it, it would run ok for a few seconds and slowly die down to 38%. Just before it quit running it would drop slowly until it got to about 10%. I stopped at a store and when I came out it wouldn't start. All through this the reading from the tps matched the reading on the quadzilla so I don't think it's dead pedal. After having it towed home and doing some digging I find I'm not getting fuel at the injectors. I have power at the vp plug, and…
-
-
- 6 replies
- 1.4k views
-
-
I have an 02 dodge 3500 6 speed and a few months back my ecm went bad and the one I replaced it with is out of an automatic truck... truck runs as it should but my question is if I put a programmer (smarty) on it will it work as it should or am I going to fry my ecm thanks in advance for any helpful info
-
-
- 24 replies
- 3.1k views
-
-
At 75 mph my engine will cut out like it’s hit a governer or lost fuel pressure but comes back then cuts out and comes back and so on anyone have any ideas? Also fuel pressure on my edge does not cut out stays at the same psi when problem is occuring new fuel filters new o rings in air-dog 165 new check valve in vp44 and clean air filter
-
-
- 3 replies
- 1.5k views
-