2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Hey all, I have a 2001 that already has 2.5" leveling kit from previous owner, and I installed a 'Dodge Off Road adjustable track bar. My suspension is currently shot and I'm looking at upgrading it with the Carli starter kit. The kit recommends an adjustable track bar which I already have, extended sway bar end links which are affordable at $200, and extended control arms which are not affordable / way over priced for what they are IMO at $700. From what I understand the track bar moves the axle back to the passenger side where it should be, however I don't think I did that properly upon install. I just put it on tightened it and took it to firestone for an alignment, id…

Is it difficult to change the tie rod ends yourself? Any good links?

Have any of you done your own undercoating and what product did you use? Looks like it would be fairly easy unless you just didn't need it due to being continually bathed in oil. Mine could use it under the floor pan and bed.

i need some help. i have a 99 3500 i just bought and a have a head light problem. When i turn the lights on every light turns on but the head light. i checked the fuses and the connections and they were good. What can be wrong? help please

Ive got a 24 valve 98 and I was driving down the road and I heard what sounded like a "pop" in my stacks and my truck died. It bounced around at a couple hundred RPM's before it died but NO response from the pedal at all. My truck has the fuel pump in the tank and the vp44 and thats it. No motor mounted lift pump. I have plenty of fuel up to and after my fuel filter canister but nothing coming out of the vp44. I pulled the very first injector line off but I have no fuel at all there. I THINK my vp44 took a ____ on me and Im in a real bad place right now. I cant afford a grand for a pump. Is there a way to test it and make sure it IS in fact the vp44 before I buy one? It w…

I am installing an Isspro trans temp gauge an would like to know the best route to run the sender wire. I will be putting it in the trans hot line to the cooler. Most everything I have run is through the firewall grommet to the upper right of the steering column, but is there a more direct path near the trans tunnel? Also I will be splicing the cooler "hot" line with the "T" from Diesel Manor. Is the line full of fluid that I should be prepared to catch when I disconnect it? I am hoping that it will have drained and I can just break it loose with minimal spillage. Thanks in advance!

Not sure If I'll need help with this topic just yet but decided to start this thread / discussion to help me get the mind-set. Maybe this thread can help others who need to sort out the trailer wiring. Ok so when I bought my truck in 2013, it didn't have a bed or body on the back. I basically bought a truck with just a cab. Previous owner was using it as welding rig. He got a new truck and swapped the welding body onto his new truck. Unfortunately he was not so nice and he cut ALL of the wires in the back for the tail light and towing. Left me with the rats nest bunch of cut wires. I used a test light to get the basics connected for the stop, turn and tail lights…

I replaced the clock spring about 3 weeks ago to fix the airbag light and cruise issue I was having. While reinstalling the airbag I pinched the horn wire and didn't notice till I was driving home and got the horn to blow when turning left! Got home and repaired it with a butt splice connector and all seemed well for about 5 hours then the horn lit off solidly blowing for all it was worth. Went out started the truck moved the wheel and all was well until about 10pm then it did it again! Removed the horn relay and nothing since. My question in all of this is: Do I need to replace the clock spring or could this be a horn pad issue like…

Are there any radio/GPS/backup camera combo's like in the new trucks that will fit into the radio cutout in our dashboards?

Was looking at my Dana part numbers for upcoming gear change when I noticed my old stock shocks are shot. Wondering if anyone with an 8600 / 8800 lb cap 4x4 extended cab has tried this and if so, are these worth the money? I would really like to hear from someone with the remote control wireless unit.

I'd like to ask the form if increasing the fuel supply line to 5/8's from tank pickup to L.P. to I.P., would reduce the starving fuel problem at higher RPM's? Would you replace the return Ln? has anyone done this? I know it won't cure it like a air dog sys. And what is available after market to rebuild/ replace tank pick up to 5/8's, and not drilling new holes in tank? I have liked the research done on this from torktek.com. Thans for lookin at it..

okay so i have a 98 2500 that didnt come factory with cab lights whats the best oem solution to do and any tips on doing so thanks!

I repainted my 96, one of those with the clear coat that seperated. And now I'd like to put the emblems back on. They were put on with double sided tape and I'm looking for a good one that will keep them on. Any help is appreciated. Bob

Have the window and lock switches illuminated for night driving ...... Are the cruise control switches in the steering wheel supposed to be illuminated also ? Mine aren't illuminated ....... just wondering. Thanks, MM

Does any one install post gauges in the Boise area.Have the setup just need to have it installed by someone that has more knowledge than I ( Correct way of saying I don't want to screw it up )

Is there a difference between the front doors for a 2dr quad cab vs a 4dr quad? I’m wondering if doors from a 94-98 will fit on a 98.5 truck.

I know a lot of people have to transmission work at home on their shop floor without a lift. I wish I would of shot pictures on the way out. What you need is 2 cam buckle straps and 2 ratchet straps. On the way down you put both cam buckle strap across under the transmission on at the front and one at the rear. Hooking to the frame one on left and on right side. Once the transmission is loose wiggle a bit and allow it to be cradled in the straps. Single man can hold like the rear strap ease it down a few inches and then swap. Now the photo here I used the ratchet straps to lift it back up but doubled up with cam buckle straps. So again ratchet strap can be reset …

I've noticed on my 1999 24v that the WTS light takes a while to come on. All other lights have come on and off before the WTS light comes on. And there is no cranking the truck without that light coming on. My 12v is not that way.

Today I hooked my computer up to my truck and when I viewed the live data values (RPM, VSS, ECT, IAT, etc) with my truck idleing the numbers were jumping all over the place, for example the VSS would read 0 then 68 then 136 and all over the place with my truck just sitting there idling. So something is wrong somewhere in the truck because I tried connecting to other vehicles we have and everything works like it should with the OBD II cable and software. I'm not even sure where to start in trying to find the problem but right now I'm kind of thinking it may be a ground wire somewhere but I have no clue what wires to start checking

Hi everyone. I replaced my pillar gauges yesterday with all new isspro ev series gauges. My old ones still worked but they were all miss-matched. Anyway, I had an auto meter pyro before. I hooked the new pyro up just like the old one was and according to the instructions. I did just use the same thermo probe though. I have no reading at all on the gauge. Does anyone know if I need a new probe? Or what the problem might be? Thanks!!!