2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Just bought this truck and it is a good truck but I get this vibration from the engine, especially at idle on the steering wheel. That`s the place I notice it most although it vibrates at other places as well but not as much as on the steering wheel., it does not skip, in fact it runs and starts great. Could this be a broken motor mount or something? After I start driving it almost stops the vibration until it`s back to idle again. Harmonic balance maybe? Tx.

Some years back there was a lot of talk about turbo timers to prevent turbo bearing cokeing but, for whatever reason, no one seems to know what I'm talking about. Maybe because some of the new fueling boxes have this feature built in them. What I want to do is build my own relay timer so that I can run an auxiliary 12 volt fan for about 30 minutes or less after engine shut down but I cant seem to find any kind of timer relay that can do this. There used to be aftermarket turbo timers which would run the truck for 5 minutes or so after turning the key OFF, unless you opted to override the timer with a button. Maybe there aren’t too many guys who have been on these forums …

My truck has had dead pedal since i put it back together after putting new hot rod pump and timbo tps. It threw a p0500 code the other night and i was wanting to reset tps and my parking brake cable broke a few years ago and i never fixed it, so i put a new switch on and still no light. I think it works off ground and when u ground it i should turn light on correct? I had a problem with tach not working awhile back and had cluster worked on and now my high beam light does work all time now. Im wondering if my cluster is messed up and i guess u have to have parking brake light on to reset tps? And if i replace cluster with one out of yard my truck …

Ok Gang... I'm going to produce a write-up on how to replace an ignition switch and lock assembly for a 2nd Gen truck. More to follow soon. What happen was I took the 96 Dodge into town and load it with fuel brought it back home. Put it away. Later on realized I needed to bring in firewood for the night. So I went out fire up the truck and backed into the wood shed and shut it down. Loaded up with wood in the bed and tailgate. Hopped back in the driver seat turn the key and shock to feel the ignition switch snap internal and the key rolled over without resistance. No ignition, no start. I played with it for quite a little bit and figured out if I pressed the key …

I have an 02 cummins 4x4. Pulled the codes and had p1698 p1689 p0237. Replaced the vp44 and still had the codes. Cleared the codes out took the truck for a drive and hooked the scanner back to the truck and it will not read codes so I done the key trick and am getting p1694 p1693 p1687 and p0237. Truck starts up fine and drives but it has no power has the CEL ABS and BRAKE light on the dash. Got to looking under the hood and seen that the previous owner had a wire on the harness to the pcm tapped and grounded. Took that wire off and nothing changed. I don't know what to do next!

I was driving home last night and the brake and clutch petals got weird on me. There was a lot of play side-top-side and the brake petal was sticking. I was able to safely get it home. The e-clip on the brake pedal side was gone and the rod had pushed through as you can see from the pictures. I removed the brake light switch (guessing that is what it was) and I was able to wiggle the rod back through. However, getting the nylon insert in proved to be a pain. I disconnected both the clutch and brake petals from their respective push rods and I was able to quickly shimmy the insert into place. Nothing earth shattering here, but I thought I would share in case…

Been searching all morning and can not find a reputable company to buy from. I'd like a complete cluster overlay prolly white cause that seems the most common and easy to read. Anyone have these or know where to buy from?

Well it happened wrecked my 01. It bent the front part of the frame under the rad. support. Hopefully I have a guy with a frame straightener to the rescue, this will be the second time this part of the frame will be straightened. Im sure it is weak and gonna be even weaker but I have no choice but to fix it. My biggest question is where to find motor mounts? The impact ripped the left mount, I find mounts with no dampeners in them and never the same brand. Looking to buy them all together. Am I missing something here?

My A/C doesn't cycle on and off, compressor just stays kicked in. I checked the pressure and it was a touch low so I put one of those small cans into the system. It is now in the safe range but still won't cycle out. It runs until it freezes off and airflow stops. I have been switching it to vent every few minutes to keep this from happening. What do you guys think is the problem?

I decided a few months ago I am tired of messing with the factory fuel filter housing. It’s not easy to remove the lines when I need to, and even with new hardware it still leaks at the drain valve sometimes. I have a large auxiliary trans cooler/fan mounted on the frame rail as well as the Raptor 4G so I don’t really have room for a rail mounted filter. While weighing my options I came across this from GDP https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/collections/fuel-filter-systems-vehicle-specific/products/glacier-diesel-power-1998-5-2002-dodge-ram-5-9-cummins-mk-7-big-line-kitheated-mk79852-blkh It is pricey, but it retains use of the OE WIF plug and the fuel heater.…

I'm in the market for a new steering gear box. Problem is I can't afford the one I want from Geno's Garage and I need one soon. I have had bad luck with Napa's reman gear boxes so they are also out of the question. So has any one had any luck with Advance or AutoZone gear boxes?

1997 ram 2500 cumming 4x4 have a intermintant electrical issue the dash goes dead guages all the warning lights come on headlights go dim thinking bad ground but cant seem to find it please help

Ok, I've done some searching and can't really find what Im looking for. My Blinkers started to malfunction on me lately and at first it was intermittent. Sometimes they would work and sometimes they wouldn't. This went on for a day or so and now they just don't work at all. My hazards do though. My lights are good it has something to do with just the turn signal system. Does anyone have a for sure answer as to what could be the issue? I'm definitely electronically challenged. Thanks

What could be causing popping in the steering wheel truck is a 97 2wd 5 speed

I got my new Autometer "A" pillar triple gauge mount today with gauges and was wondering how you guys got the wiring and tubing through the dash? I am guessing drilled a hole somewhere to manipulate the wires and such through? I am going to try to install the Trans. Temp, Boost and Oil Pressure this weekend hopefully, if things go right. Thanks for help! Steve

Review Monitor Cab Monitor and Rear Trailer Camera Parts list: 50’ roll outdoor Cat-5/Cat-6 cable (Home Depot) 10’ red 18awg 1’ black 18awg 10 ‘split wire loam tubing ¼ diam. 5” color monitor (5” E-KLIN 12-24V car monitor, Amazon) Color camera (E SKY EC170-11, Amazon) 4 pin round trailer wire connector ON/OFF switch, SPST, push or toggle 2 amp fuse Fuse holder Rosin core solder Electrical tape Heat shrink tubing Coaxial cable staples Zip ties 2”x4”x ½”- ¾” plywood or board Flat black spray paint Double sided …

So, I decided to build a relay harness for my headlights. I've heard people have had good luck with getting more light output so i decided to give it a go. With the harness installed, only the driver headlight works. It looks much brighter, but one light wont cut it! LOL. High and low beam have the same result. The high beam indicator is on with the high beams but goes off with the lows, like its supposed to. I used the Low+ and Common from one side on the relay for the low beams, then I used the High+ and Common from the other side to trigger the Highbeam relay. The reason I used the common from the OEM harness is these headlighs are 99% of the time ground switc…

In my 99 Laramie SLT overhead console everything works, except for the trip meter. I ran the self test on it, and it said "PASSED". My friend's 02 Laramie SLT does the same exact thing. We don't get any errors on the display either. Anybody know why this is happening? It's not a big deal as the dash has its trip meter, but it's just an annoyance that it doesn't work.

Hello. Checking to see if anyone has also experienced this. With engine running, attempt to turn headlights on and engine dies, as if it were a kill switch, and will not start. Some research suggested to remove park lamp fuse. It worked, but now no running lights except headlights. Brakes and hazards do work, but my concern is with tail/marker/license plate and front ambers. Can this be as easy as a bad ground or am I looking at a full ECM replacement again? Thanks , DRG

Paint the frame and axle with rust bullet paint, the dana 80 is getting a new locker and all new 1/2 fuel lines