2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

My rear side window detached from the hinge at the glued joint. Anyone had this happen? If I try re- gluing it, what glue would be best?

Hello,, got a buddy w/a 2001 2wheel drive , he just put brake pads on,, then he calls me that he had to order hubs cause the bearings were bad[ 165000 miles], I told him he can just order new bearings,,am I right, can he have the old ones pressed out and new one put back in,,, whats a good recomended bearing? Thanks

Could someone look up the fuse location for me. I need to know where the fuse is for the trailer running lights. I've still got taillights on the truck and all work fine. No running lights on the trailer. I've got turn and brakes on the trailer. I'm in the field and don't have my books with me.

Going to change diff fluid this weekend. I'm thinking about getting on of those fancy diff covers. I don't mind the price but only if upgrade is worth it. Anybody know what normal temps are with a OEM diff cover compared to the aftermarket alum covers with "cooling" fins? My Dana 70 is usually towing a 8k to 9k trailer most of the time. Even with the fancy type I would still pull cover when changing fluid, just to get a visual of the insides. And I would still use "dino" oil. In your opinion is the fancy type are worth it?

Is there a check valve, or similar flow directional device, between the lift pump and the fuel filter? I am trying to understand what I can about this area of the fuel system, before I remove the lift pump to further investigate the problem. So far, I have been unable to get any flow through the filter housing.I ensured there is fuel to the lift pump, but I do not see any fuel flowing through the filter housing. This was done by pressurizing the fuel tank and witnessing fuel at the pump fitting. And the fuel filter cap was removed to determine if any fuel flow after the lift pump as it was not witnessed at the banjo test port fitting .I have been using the bump proced…

I have an Autometer fuel pressure gauge for my Cummins that constantly loses pressure the more I drive it. I seem to have a air leak and I have tightened every single connection. My T connector is between my lift pump and my fuel filter, is the best place for my T??I have a isolator on it. Fuel flows into a piece of equipment I bought with my gauges........so there is no actual fuel coming into the truck via the gauge.Should my T for my fuel be after the fuel filter?????

Looking for something I can mount in the cab that will read the signal (0-12v) and display. Something very cheap and small to hook directly into a variable voltage feed ???? --- Update to the previous post... kinda like this ...... in functionality But digital and smaller http://www.hobbytron.com/CK005.html --- Update to the previous post... -----update------- hmmm this may work .... http://www.amazon.com/XScorpion-Red-Digital-Voltage-Monitor/dp/B001RS1ERC/ref=dp_cp_ob_e_title_3

Currently have about 5 accessories tapped into fuses on side panel drivers side. Worried about overloading circuit and becoming a bit messy Assuming I can clean this up using a fuse panel like this for accessories ? But how best to RIG up to ensure on own circuit and not overloading another circuit (eg power ) http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-15600-06-20-Quick-Connect/dp/B001BXKLNQ/ref=pd_ts_auto_13?ie=UTF8&s=automotive http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html Any better ones that handle more AMPS and how do you supply power/ground to man circuit - direct from battery using a higher gauge wire ? thx

How long would it take to change the assembly ? Mine is broke.

My battery post are on the verge of breaking and trying to avoid the expense of new cables. If you do a search for these it comes up with like three connections on each terminal. If someone wouldnt mind checking these out? I tried to get a pic to post but I'm not good at that at all.

Boy, the last few days I ain't had much luck. AC goes out and now the ABS and parking brake lights are staying on. I checked for codes and got nothing and checked the fuses everything looks good there. The truck brakes just as it always has since I got the truck. The speedo and everything in the gauge cluster are working properly just the two lights are on. I know it could be several things but just wondering what order I needed to go in to fix this problem. From my searches on here I think it may be the two speed sensor up front. Would you replace them first and then if that didn't work replace the sensor in the back? If not that check the ABS motor/computer? Eit…

Looking to change sway bar or just the end links any recommendations on the 1999 I heard it's not that bad of a suspension I have the steering brace new shocks ball joints seem tight just at high speeds and tight lanes i gets a little white knuckles

Ok I replaced my bro boost and powers steering pump now nothing out o the pump

I just got in and it's 1:00 am. Worked 9 hr today then put new set of rotors and pads on, then pulled vp and swaped the last one they sent due to the second one was a little better. That is a sad statement. Emailed Chip at Blue Chip diesel and he came back saying they have less than 2% come backs on there vp's. Does anyone here have any dealings with them?Later Man

Hey everyone,I have a new set of Top Gunz control arms coming in for my truck and hopefully will be installing them tomorrow. Does anyone have any tips or tricks on doing it?:shrug:Thanks,Winslow

My truck is equipped with the tow package and the 7-pin receptacle for trailer lights/brakes/etc. I have an electric brake controller in the cab. The ground (pin #1), left turn/brake light (#5), tail light (#3), right turn/brake (#6) and electric brake (#2) all work. As I understand it, pin #4 (2 o'clock) is used to charge the battery in the RV trailer. I checked the #4 pin with ignition on & it was dead. I looked at the trailer fuse (40 amp) in the power distribution panel under the hood and it looks good. Where else should I look for the disconnect? Also what is the auxiliary pin (#7, in the center) used for & how is it switched?Appreciate your help,Joe in St …

Is this a common leak due to a bad seal, or does it look like it’s not seated all the way? Never noticed it before, but had the transmission built 1,000 miles ago. Would the trans shop had messed with this? It’s not a massive leak but I can see where it’s spinning and throwing oil all around.

I have the violet with white stripe connected to the light green (actually yellowish-green). Both High & low beams light up but when I release the lever (after changing to high beam) there is an overall dimming negating any advantage of the double connection. Can't figure what's up - it used to work ok. (This on a late 02)

Not sure if I like it but sure is durable. IBM's rv spot for northern runs My little house

Just changed rear drums, pads and parking brakes. Got it all back together and it seemed to work ok in the driveway. Went down the road and the rears are stuck on. Took them apart and checked and tried again and still the same. Are my calipers messed up? The second time I took them apart I put a block in and hit the brakes to see if the pistons would come out. one did but the second one on both sides took a HARD push on the pedal to make them go. Did i mess up something pushing them in?