2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I just pulled the entire lower dash out, drilled out all the rivets holding the plastic to the metal sub-frame, removed the plastic and put down a layer of fiberglass on the back side for reinforcement, then riveted it back to the metal subframe. While doing this I started thinking about fabbing up a completely new upper and lower dash to replace the plastic garbage Dodge so graciously blessed us with. Has anyone done something like this? I'm not talking about a bare bones dash you see in a race truck but rather something that looks factory. If I decide to do this I'm heading to the local junk yard to find a cab to use for R&D work.

Anyone (mike?) have the pinout of the plug under the driver's floorboard for an 01? I'd like to know what all is controlled through that plug.Thanks!

I picked up a set of aftermarket sport headlights and built the harness from the info on this site. They work great except for the fact that I have started blowing headlight bulbs. I have been using Sylvania and Wagner bulbs. Are these brands just not heavy duty enough for the voltages directly off the battery's? Last week the low beam elements in the 9007 bulbs both burned out. I replaced them both and this week both high beam elements in the 9007 and 9004 on the passenger side went. I am about ready to go back to the OEM housings and just the 9004 bulb on each side. Only problem is that I tossed the old housings as they were in real bad shape. …

Short version: Didnt drive the truck for a bit, jumped the truck, got it started. Drove it for a bit, then parked it. checked to see it would fire again after shutting it off, thought the wait to start didnt show up. next morning, slow crank. attempted to jump the truck, didnt fire off. swapped batteries now i have no CCD bus and no wait to start. i also attempted to jump the truck with the Quad hooked up the second time.. Long version: Last weekend (I think) I tried jump starting my truck. Havent started it since like late October. Finally got around to trying to get it started. Unhooked the Quad, put one of those lithium jump packs on, got it fired up. Let …

Hi all, So my the buckle on my driver's side seatbelt was flickering the light. If I pushed it in it would go off, for awhile, then it the light would eventually come back on. It got tot he point where the light would only go off if I pushed the seatbelt into the buckle, full-time. I purchased a new Mopar part from ebay, they are not cheap. Replaced it and it worked as expected. Them my truck sat for about 6 weeks. On the first trip out the overpriced new buckle started doing the same thing the old one was doing. The good news the part has a 2 year warrantee, and they sent me a replacement. The bad news, the…

Any one els have a slt+ truck with manual mirrors? Im pretty sure the previous owner may have removed them to add the manual towing mirrors. Just cant imagine the truck being leather power everything heated seats and manual mirrors... If I decide to go to electric mirrors where can the switch for the mirrors be purchased other than the dealer.

I have a 2000 3500 5 speed. New built engine. Currently getting about 9 volts to fuel relay. Truck started and ran upon engine install but oil change place arced alternator on oil filter. Injector pump was fried, so I replaced. Traced back to computer. Sent off twice and got same result. Installed computer on another truck, same result, have to jump pins for relay to start engine. Sent off to Auto computer specialist this time, same result. Fass comes on and works fine but injector pump won't create pressure while this relay is getting low voltage. Please help. I have used this site for testing wires and can only come up with computer failure but after repairing 3 times n…

Hoping someone will know what this plug is for ..... Have an '02 RCLB 5speed There is a plug below the ashtray in my truck. It has a double row of 8 sockets (16) and the sockets are small. It appears to be factory installed, but I just don't know. The wiring is lengthy, and the excess was coiled up behind the kick panel - drivers side. I've been de-installing the boom box sound system, and have a RAZ (optional-non Infinity) radio. It has the auxiliary input ... Any info on the plug would be much appreciated ....

I was thinking!Now I may be wrong! but It seems to me that I remember a few years back that the color of diesel fuel was kind of green.Now does anyone else remember that or was it just a few stations that had fuel that was a odd color, or was it because of the higher sulpher in the fuel back then.It seemed that it was mostly in new mexico and Oklahoma at the time.But I never drove to other states so I really don't know just a curios thought.

I like that. Another tidbit... I've had this happen to a customer truck and it was so simple to fix. If you happen to have o-rings form A/C work or just a o-ring kit you can swap them out in no time flat.

Hi, I'm looking for a single 1/2 Bulkhead fitting and some 1/2" corrugated fuel line. (ALL items above bracket in pic, less, washers, male QC, clamp and ties. ) Any one know of a source for fittings besides Vulcan? [Note: Nothing against Vulcan, they are great to deal with, extremely helpful, I can't say enough good about them. I'm just looking for source closer to me given Christmas mail delays etc..] Thanks. Leaky

I read several posts on here about clutch cycling and decided to check my a/c system pressures. Today at 72 degrees my pressures were 225/30 on max a/c with blower motor wide open. Air inside cab is good and cold and clutch stayed engaged. I thought I was in good shape, then I noticed as soon as I turn the blower down or change from max a/c my clutch starts rapid cycling and pressures change to 150/40 when clutch is engaged. Air is still blowing cold on the inside. Any ideas what is going on? Too low R134a maybe?

Getting rotation today and as I take look at the brakes while all the wheels are off and see something strange. Right front. Left front. There appears to be cracking and you can feel it with your finger nail. Never had this before. Seems there cracking. Any one had this happen on theirs?

Rust! Yeah, this winter I've not been able to keep up on washing the truck as much as I wanted to. I knew I had a few paint chips in the tailgate from the old canopy. So I'm doing some fix-up work to keep the R word under control. Need to pick up a can of gloss black paint tomorrow when the hardware store is open. The black of the tailgate liner plastic will blend right in with the extended black paint line. You can see I had it paint once with flat black but that is porous.

What’s the best way to drain coolant on a 2wd 12 valve doesn’t look like a 5 gallon bucket will fit

I'm currently trying to figure out why I have to recharge my AC every spring I'm looking for leaks. Question is what are the sections of tubing that have the tin foil like tape on them? The one behind the battery I can hear flowing or leaking in it after turning the truck off for a minute or so.

@BrokeAssPainter asked this question: I just changed out my right wheel hub assy, everything I'm finding online says tighten to 20ft/lb then back off quarter turn and then hand tighten......... Honestly that just doesn't sound like it's going to hold my front tire on seeing as how it's a 2wd with independent front suspension. Anyone care to chime in? I'd really appreciate someone saving me from a catastrophic failure lmao From the 2001 Dodge Ram FSM page 59, section 2-8 FRONT - 2WD TORQUE SPECIFICATION Hub Bearing HD 2500/3500: 280 Ft. Lbs.

Truck question/issue: As most of you know, I have a 99 Ram, 2500, 2x4, Cummins, Auto. it is up @ 230,000 miles now so Ive replaced just about every consumable on it a couple of times now. I have noticed the last year or so, it bounces down the freeway now. the faster I go the worse it gets. it only happens on Concrete (not on blacktop) & not all concrete, just some. This really seems like this is a shock problem. However I have replaced the shocks (that were not that old) with new ones & the problem is still there. I used to have Bilsteins on there & the previous 2 sets were also Bilsteins. being as its a 2x4 I dont have a lot o…

For anyone who has a SCII - is there a battery in there that holds the memory of it for when the truck batteries are disconnected? The last two times I've had to start over with the fuel level calculation as when I disconnected the batteries for a battery swap, and then for my alternator, I lost my settings in the SCII. As my fuel gauge is currently inop I kind of rely on it a bit for my fuel level, and getting it calibrated takes several tanks of fuel, which for me translates to about 6 weeks, as I don't have far to drive for my job. Thanks.

Hey guys, finally getting around to wiring up my trans gauge. It's the isspro ev gauge so it comes with the amplifier box. I'm already using a couple other key on 12v sources so looking to use another one if I can. Is there a list or diagram I can reference to check? I tried splicing into one one in already using but I'm not getting correct reading on th gauge so I'm trying to isolate the power to help troubleshooting.