2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

I recently bought an 02 3500. It has no body. Previous owner had a welding rig body which he took off and in doing so cut all the tail/stop/turn/reverse lighting wiring.Does anyone know where I can find rear light wiring diagram so I can figure out which wires are what so I can:banghead: wire up some new lights?Thanks!

Hi, I am installing these Running Lights. Harness is 18 Gauge wire and has a 2A line fuse. The length of this universal harness far exceeds my needs for a neat install. The pamphlet cautions: “Do not modify the lamp harness or the switch harness in any way.” First inclination is to reach for side cutters, heat shrink, and tailor but wondering what others have done. Do I coil the excess or trim and are there any issues with doing so? Thanks

I'm resealing my hydroboost and these items popped out in my hand when I took the last bolt out. Can someone tell me how they go back in and am I missing anything. Thank you I assume it goes like this back in the hole.

I looked at it briefly but is it possible to remove just the center console? Or even move it enough to mount a stereo amp under it? I want to secure my amp to the floor under the console, would be easiest to remove it if possible. Thanks.

I dont know if this starts a new thread, as HAGGAR suggested, I'm new to the forum, not tech savvy, and have only a tiny phone to post with...so please, bear with me. I'll try and recap, I've cleaned and reinstalled ALL the grounds for the headlight circuit to the best of my ability. I had no broken or loose wires., and the SINGLE 40 amp fuse checks out. I have no other current wiring or lighting issues, stop, turn, and tail all work, as do all running lights and in cab lighting. in the below pick, with selector on high beam, the passenger side light plug works, with 12+volts at the pin on the right as seen. On the drivers side, this pin registers .52vol…

This kinda stated in a different thread but I thought I would post what I've done here instead of hijacking. There was a discussion about rust proofing and weather protection including the use of undercoating, fluid film and the old fashioned used oil concoction to combat rust and corrosion. Since I've been off work for a bit due to a knee problem I have been getting antsy and needed to get outside and tinker with something so I decided to try the used oil truck that was mentioned by @Mopar1973Man in another thread. I have plenty of used motor oil here on the farm (approx 35 gallons of it) so I mixed some with diesel to thin it out enough to be sprayed throu…

there is what appears to be a 90* vacuum or some other fitting in the backside of the drivers side front fender. My windshield washer doesn't work maybe this is why, but my 4x4 doesn't engage either, maybe this is why. Thank you!!

So I'm finally getting around to the pump that's been leaking a while now, (much more time on my hands) but I'm faced with a bunch of options to choose from. I dont want buy a cheap remanufactured just to keep replacing the pump, but are the "new" ones any more reliable? Napa brand Part #381058n 240 dollars for pump and resivor, no idea what the real brand is Comes without resivor, 35 dollars cheaper Advanced Auto Part # 96-8002 300 dollars for Cardone brand, cant find a lot of reviews on this either, manager said they started carrying it in the fall. Anyone use this? A bit more expensive. Borgeson (the problem…

I've been fighting an intermittent no bus/ no gauges issue for a while now. I narrowed it down to the cluster because sometimes a hard bump would cause them to go away and a soft bump with my hand would bring them back. While waiting for the ATF to stop dripping so I could change the cooler return line I finally pulled the cluster. The slides that hold the plugs in the dash appeared to have relaxed over time allowing a considerable amount of play. After a Yankneck Ed dielectric grease treatment I put some toothpick shims behind the plugs to tighten them up much like a builder would shim a window. I'm not implying that @JAG1 would ever use a shim but some guys do . Put it…

Has anyone built an on board air compressor type of a deal on their trucks? Im looking for ideas... One of the guys @ work has a bagged Toyota & he suggested some of those compressors. It looks like that might be an option..... It seems to me that there might be a belt driven option for the Cummins motor for other uses....... I could not find anything that might be a good solution. Bob

Has anyone had any experience with this company? Seems like a viable alternative to swapping an axle or buying another truck. No, it won’t legally change the tow rating but would increase stability when towing at the very least. https://www.southwestwheel.com/c-10-single-to-dual-wheel-adapters.aspx

My door sprinf fell out (see photo). Is there an easy way to re install it? thanks for any ideas.

Does anybody else have a problem keeping their main doors closed on their truck while driving? When ever I hit a few bumpy patches of road or hop on the freeway my door doesn’t seem to latch all the way and wiggles creating a very noisy and annoying sound in the cab. Especially when driving long distances when I put my hand o the door I can feel it shaking back and forth I’ve replaced weather stripping on both sides of the truck and they still do it. Anybody else have this issue or an idea how to fix it?

Hey all, so I'm in need of more fuses for accessories and what not. The previous owner when hooking up the quadzilla used some type of pigtail add a fuse which had a small metal piece that was flat and then the other end went down around the pin on the #9 engine fuse. I'm wanting to do an actual add a fuse but I have 2 accessories already running off ignition hot sources in the fuse box and there isn't room for me to put the add a fuse on #9 for the quad. Geno's garage I believe used to sell a "painless" wiring fuse box for ignition hot sources but I can't seem to find it these days. I want to run the gauge cluster and air dog to the new block so I have room to do the cor…

Had my alternator spin tested at an automotive electric specialty shop, he said the alternator tested great under all parameters. The shop stated allot of people come in with specific specs they want confirmed. My question is what exactly are the specs I should be looking for.

Hi All, New to me Truck. I was removing the Edge Transmission Temp sensor Wire when crawling out I noticed that the top bolt in the 4 link #4 in Illustration was backed out, right hand side. Aside from screwing back in with Locktitie is there a way to unload the link so I don't Screw it up? I assume (That word.) that Jack it up and support the frame and then just unscrew locktite it and back in she goes?

I have a new junkyard dash core and I got a new dash top from Geno's. I know they recommend painting the top but is it really necessary? I currently have a black plastic cover and like the way it contrasts with the grey I already have. I need to repaint the core and glove box door due to some fading but was gonna stick with the grey on those parts. Has anyone left there Geno's dash top as-is?

With the rear axle chained it was easy. Immediate improvement. I'm going to build arms now that I've done a few track bars and jeep arms. First I can chuck the castor shims to get alittle more.

Finally found a local source for the other alternator diode. I picked up one diode for now. Once I see a number of people wanting them I'll place an order for larger amount of them.

Manual Air Recirculation Control The HVAC control in a 1999-2002 2ed generation Ram only has the ability to recirculate air when either the controller is in the OFF or MAX A/C. In all other positions outside air is entering the cab interior. This modification will give you the ability to either have the air recirculation controlled by the factory HVAC controller or have the system in recirculation in any position. How it works The black hose supplies the vacuum to the HVAC system. The green hose supplies vacuum from the HVAC controller to the recirculation actuator. When the mode knob is in the OFF or MAX A/C positions vacuum is applied to the …