2nd Generation Dodge Non-Powertrain

Long story short I had to replace the engine in my otherwise reliable old truck at 298000. That part with the exception of busted knuckles and not having done it before, went off mostly okay though I’m still not completely finished, due to the challenges described below. While wrestling the new engine into place at the bell housing and torque converter I inadvertently squashed a white vacuum line. I managed to get it removed from between the two sections. Now when trying to trace it back I find there is a second (unsquished) white line. What are these and where are they supposed to be terminated? Also, when the exhaust came out I now have a black r…

I just sent my ECM off to Auto Computer Specialists to be worked on. Received it back, put it back in and it ran great for about 2 weeks. Threw a 1287 code, lost all fuel pressure, engine died, and "no bus" showed in the odometer, and the WTS is flashing again . Waited 5 minutes or so, tried to start it up and acted like nothing was wrong. Originally it had a 1287 code, they fixed the fuel pump circuit, the engine would lug at initial start up, and the voltage regulator was erratic and WTS light was flashing. Batteries are charged and grounds are clean. Any suggestions as what my next step is?

Walking through autozone I spotted these it sh!t I can drill a hole and bolt em on I say yo myself Did it last night just yanked 11k 60 miles and ohh my so much more precise and stable cornering steering even straight line driving. Only problem is I think I blew my head gasket. Pepsi has me set on timing 4 pulled a few grades making 30psi. ****. Lol I'm kidding, SW5 t4 d5 feels good Dont know why I didnt think of this sooner. Also sorry that these wont bolt on anyone else's truck. They are a few inches to short but are working great. Truck feels new well newer. Wonders around so much less. Autozone had…

there is what appears to be a 90* vacuum or some other fitting in the backside of the drivers side front fender. My windshield washer doesn't work maybe this is why, but my 4x4 doesn't engage either, maybe this is why. Thank you!!

I've got an ECM that no longer powers the lift pump on an 02 24v Cummins HO. I replaced the VP44 and hotwired the aftermarket lift pump (airdog raptor) to test. Manually supplying power to the lift pump and bleeding injectors did the trick, so now I need to wire it in properly. I read the article on RF noise with aftermarket lift pumps, so I'll modify the harness with a .1 Mfd Orange drop capacitor and modify the pump when I have it out again. Given that my ECM lift pump circuit is DOA, where should I grab a trigger voltage to engage the lift pump relay? I am looking at the light green and black wire carrying ignition…

Heater core in the 98 was steaming up the windows and would barely get to 120 over the winter so I need to replace it. I had every intention of replacing it later this year before it got cold out but im going to Colorado for a week at the end of this month and its in the 30's at night with high's in the 50's so im gonna swap it out this week. Ive ordered a TYC core and its supposed to be here Wednesday. The problem i foresee is the dash in this truck has a cover over it and the screws have been covered up. Im pretty sure I need to remove those screws but I dont know their exact location. I think the best way will be to use a small hole saw just above the screw but I need …

I have race truck mirrors on my truck. Have lived with them for about 15years. I now have welder in the back window so only have mirrors. The race truck mirrors look good but I cant see **** so many blind spots and no view when turning my head to see ttaffic. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232151453539 These caught my eye. I dont care that they have led. Dont even really care if there manual or powerd adjust. I think they look good and should improve rear and side view. Driving our dump truck is a better experience because I can see so much better. What mirrors is everyone ru…

what really sucks is when you have iquad and all your tunes are on a single phone the battery ends up giving up the ghost and smoking out of the power connector while you're driving down the road and u loose the tune and everything arrrge annoyed

Thinking the rear ABS speed sensor is also used for setting cruise, can't see it connected in wiring diagrams, must be in PCM, am I correct in thinking these are related problems?

OK Guy's.."The moment you've all been waiting for" Here is a complete start to finish Details on Converting Standard 2-headlight system to a Sport Quad headlight sys. i did a few months ago Let me tell you it was a P.I.T.A...i had nothing to go on as none of the threads i found on any of the forums involved building your own from scratch "w/Heavy Duty Stuff" ..most of the write ups were people who had bought a pre-wired harness..like the ones for example suvlights.com or others..all reported problems either "fog lights staying on..lights would not turn off, lights would not come on or lights were dim on bright, etc... So not finding any information in relation to a pos…

I did the cooling system flush on my 98 24valve. I was going to do this on my sons 2006 Jeep Wrangler. Shouldn't it work on the jeep just like my truck? Thanks

After getting rear ended by a loser with a suspended license and no insurance I decided it was time for a real rear bumper. I really didn't want to spend $700-1500 for a bumper so I started building my own. It's all 1/4" plate with 1/2" brackets. I got all the metal from Metal Supermarket from their cut table for 0.75 per pound. I still have to cut holes for the back-up lights, weld the bumper to the mounts, and either paint or powder coat it. When this one is finished I will be moving on to the front bumper. I plan to build it in the same style and have a winch mount. If anyone has done something similar i welcome any input, criticism, or advice. This is my first bumper…

Had bearing in the blower motor thats been chirping to me on and off for a while. So this weekend I finally swapped it and the resistor out. Sure made a nice difference in the air flow. The old was one I replaced the OE with about 9or 10 years. The shaft was fairly tight and I am sure it took some extea power to turn. Anyway the extra air flow is nice to have back.

The seats in my 96 are getting pretty ratty and I'd like to swap them out for something better. Will any second gen truck seats work? Bob

The truck has 82K on the clock – All of a sudden I am experiencing a death wobble around 40 to 50 MPH only under certain conditions. The truck has a Trick Flow tank in the bed. If I put 150 LBS close to the tail gate and hit a small bump it will go into the shakes. If I move the load over the wheels nothing. If I hook my trailer up (10,000 lbs), nothing. My mechanic has replaced a part on the pitman arm and added a steering stabilizer and said the ball joints are fine. I went to a respected alignment shop yesterday and the response was “ Yep that’s a Dodge alright”. I am going to put new tires on the front today since that is a suggested fix but no one seems to be able to…

So I heard the standard grinding screeching noise under a stopping yesterday. Looked at the front brake pads and they are shot. Went on RockAuto for a new set of pads and rotors. I noticed a lot of different options. Prices ranging from 25 each for rotors up to 250 for the top end. Is there a substantial difference between the low end, mid grade and top end? I don't pull heavy loads, just daily driving to work. I'm of the school of thought that you get what you pay for. I just hate to waste money if its not really any better. I know the pads are substantially different depending on application but the rotors are my real question. Whats everyone else running, rec…

I have a 96’ Ram 2500 4x4 with 4-wheel ABS. The ABS system hasn’t worked in quite some time which is fine by me as the last time it kicked in I almost went through a stop sign and into an another truck. The problem I’m having is the rear brakes will lock up with relatively light pressure. So far I have: • Inspected the rear brakes and checked the adjustment, nothing was wrong. • Replaced the front calipers, pads, and brake lines. • Installed a new master cylinder • Thoroughly bleed the entire system. I’ve had this happen before on a different truck (non-ABS) and the culprit was a malfuncting combination valve. The problem…

Getting ready to replace tie rods and found some ball joints by Detroit, I never heard of them. Or whats your suggestions? All I know is stay away from Moog.

Is there anyone on here that can program an Isspro fuel pressure gauge for me? I would like the warning light to come on at 10 psi. I dont really want to buy the stuff to do it because I only have the 1 Isspro gauge. If someone is willing to do it let me know a price and where to send it. Thanks

Has anybody else had any issue with the female fitting on your trans cooler lines at the front of the truck behind the bumper? I’ve owned my truck for 2.5 years and I’ve probably replaced it 5-6 times. It’s the quick disconnect line it’s keeps leaking out of the fitting