2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

When pushing down on accelerator pedal,sluggish response almost dead pedal,truck sounds rough. If you cycle key switch on/off, truck clears up and runs fine.it only does this intermittently, but cycling the ignition switch always resolves the issue. Any ideas,bad relay or switch contacts?

While I'm waiting for FASS to return a call I figured I'd ask here as well. I changed my fuel filter last Thursday and ever since, my FASS 150 is all over the place for pressure. I noticed this morning that every time the grid heater cycled the fuel pressure would build to 15psi, then drop back down to 12-12.5psi. Running down the road it continues to bounce between 12.5 to 15 some times it will spike at 18psi, then drop back to 12.5. Driving style doesn't seem to effect it either, Sunday driver to hot rod it doesn't drop below 12psi. Before I changed the filter it ran a constant 12.5psi and would jump to 15psi at start up then drop to 12.5. I bought a new water separator…

So, I have posted my problem on another forum and I am not getting much response. A couple of weeks ago my fuel pressure began to fluctuate. What happens is that the pressure is fine (19 psi) when I start the truck but it will soon drop to below five PSI. It will return to normal after to sits a while, but the pressure will always fall again. When the pressure begins to fall my Raptor pump begins to whine until it is very noticeable as the pressure approaches five psi and I shut the truck down. I changed the filter twice, checked my lines, changed the overflow valve twice and I still have the same problem. The only thing I can think of is that the Raptor is bad. It has o…

Hey guys ive had dead pedal ever seens ive put new II hotrod pump on and timbo tps. I think it maybe in the tps because when i put the first one on the lowest i could get it to set was .750 and he sent me another one that he checked before he sent it and said it read .680. I put it on and with my cheap habor freight meter and it said .710. So i adjusted it till it went up and then backed it up till it was at .71 then back it off a half turn then called him and he said to take it up till it went up then back it off a half turn. So i check it before i mess with it again and it was at .750, I went to adjust it and could not get it below .720 so i set it at that. …

I am working on a timing for my 00 24v cummins. The goal is to be able to achieve increased- or retarded timing by varying the temps read by the ecm. I spoke with Mike the otherday, and was just wondering if I am the only guy that has taken this approach?

I found my recent 2000 2500 truck aquisition very annoying constantly going in and out of lockup in the city or in hilly terrain so I installed a switch on the dash to disable the lockup solenoid. The extra lock-up sequence in 3rd gear was even more annoying as the 97 does not do this. This is not the "mystery switch" that forces a lockup and in fact is the opposite. The mystery switch is vey hard on the soft parts in the tranny when changing gears locked.I had done this in my 97 2500 and all I had to do was put a simple switch in to open the circuit to the solenoid. Last week I tried the same thing in the 2000 but it immediately went into 3rd gear limp mode. New software…

Brought my 98.5 from Colorado to Oklahoma. Along the way the voltage regulator in the alternator went out. One battery got warm and vented a concerning amount of fluid. (Type 31 batteries. Problem battery disconnected). Any ill effects of running a single battery until I swap alternators and get new batteries?

Hey Gang... I want to build a article page of all the modules available for the 24V Dodge Cummins. I want to list even obsolete modules and there ratings too. I want all information possible. Company name, web link, module model, Changes from one to another if know, amount of HP/TQ, wire tapped or not. Software downloads, etc.

When I purchased my truck, it came equipped with a performance tuner. I didn't know what it was, what it did, or how it worked.I later found out it was a Quadzilla, not sure exactly which one. Must be one of the older ones, because the one I have, I couldn't find on their website. I started messing with it and realized none of the features I had set would work. Now, I don't know how many of you know much about these Quadzillas but, i'm debating on wether or not I should keep it on the truck.Under the hood I found a disconnected EGT sensor. I don't know if it belongs to the the Quadzilla specifically, or if it's factory. But, it could be why nothing on this thing works, wh…

I’m getting set to add some HP to my ‘01-2500 (vehicle details in my ‘Garage’), and I would greatly appreciate some suggestions about what might best fit my application in the way of injectors and a turbo. I use the truck for towing and hauling, and as a daily driver. I frequently am around 13,000 GVW when hauling, and sometimes close to 25,000 GCW when towing. I am not going to be pulling sleds or putting the truck on a track, and I’m not interested in high-RPM pulls. I very rarely hit 3000 RPM, and generally keep it below 2500. I am interested in a setup that spools quickly, has good mid range boost and power, has a decent top range, doesn’t …

So I decided to swap over to amsoil when I did the clutch and ever since then, the trans makes a really loud grinding noise in 4th from 1250-1500. The more load on it the louder it gets. I like to try different things out but this noise is just ridiculous. I made a vid but for some reason all you hear is the engine so I might have to tape the cam underneath or take the shifter boot off or something. Anyone got a reason as to why switching made it do this? I used the gold plated stuff before and it never made a sound. I've heard nothing but good stuff about the redline GL4 stuff so I might try that next. Think my trans has so many miles it makes all the flaws in flu…

Sprung a leak from the plastic part of the radiator yesterday. What's the best replacement? Stock oem? CSF brand? I don't want to spend 800 bucks for mishimoto.

My AC has been working so far this yearbut is getting a bit warmer. It was hitting about 40* out the center vents but has crept up to about 55*. I put gauges on it and static pressure was about 80 psi. Started the motor and the high pressure is about 140 but the low pressure is pretty much pegged and bouncing. The compressor clutch is engaged, ambient temp 85* and center vents at 55*. Low pressre switch? Thought that should shut the compressor down. Expansion/orifice tube maybe?

Afternoon.I'm a full-time Rver, and tow a 26' fifth wheel about 25% of the time. I only have 140,000 miles on my Dodge, and since I'm retired I'd like for it to last another 10-15 years. It's a 1999 Dodge 2500 4x4 5spd 24 valve.My truck weighs 7700 pounds empty, and my fifth wheel weighs around 11,000. I have a Scangauge II, and also a EGT and boost gauge. I drive around 55mph towing and 60mph solo, and get around 10-11mpg towing, 20mpg solo. Oh, and my axle ration is 3.53 and everything in the truck is original equipment except for the Scangauge, EGT, and boost gauge.Now, for the question. I see a lot of discussion about things like lift pump failures and VP44 failures,…

Well I finally got a chance to install my 150's from jkidd. My first time changing them out on on of these. Read over Mikes write up and went with out a hitch. I must agree though the lines on #6 are a SOB! Worst part was trying to get the nut threaded up again! After assembly bled a couple lines and all's good. the truck seemed to be a little quieter and idled smoother. Took for a little test drive with my PM3 turned off. It felt very similar to running with my box on PL5. Now I have to say I didn't ripp the thing but I did feel pretty good. Rolls a little coal if I nail it. Hopefully when I get the HE351 installed will be that much better.

Hi guys, Well I am in the process of getting my gauges. (Boost Pyro, and tranny.) I put on my BHAF, adjustable boost elbow, and raptor 150. After doing some more research I realized I need a boost fooler. (Could explain the poor performance I am getting from the truck while towing. :banghead: loss of mpg and power?) I will more than likely get the edge comp for a chip but can't swing it right now. Plus I don't have the money on the backside to upgrade the tranny because I know I won't stick to running the box on level 1. Will this boost fooler work or should I look for another plug and play model?http://www.parleysdieselperformance.com/products/quadzilla-boo…

Just a friendly reminder... Take the time to inspect your brakes and all the hardware. Like myself I dove in to fixing my parking brake thinking there was a problem there but really just needs adjustments now and then. During the time of pull the calipers off I found 3 of the 4 slide pins rotten, one rubber boot was so wore it separated in half from the rough rust rubbing on it. Fix is easy I got a set of slide pins and boots coming this morning just gotta head to McCall ID to get them. Only +16*F and snowing this morning. Oh Fun.

Going to be putting headstuds in this week coming up. Any advice? Easy way to get the back head bolt out and stud in? Anyone against the one by one method?? Any advice at all is welcome.

Alright so we all saw the youtube by now with the 2 gauges. Well that was a spearco intercooler... I was looking at a thread on CF and noticed a guy from diesel power mag said after stock boost numbers, the stock intercooler would start to fall on its face. Meaning anything over ~20psi. When they did their test they registered a 73F difference over ambient. They then swapped in a BD fancy intercooler and it maintained 10F over ambient max. This apparently made a 250F EGT difference. Now this was on a 1998 12 valve and one guy told me the VP44 trucks have intercoolers that flow 8% better, though I'm not sure. Still, testing needs to be done. Mike sees a good bit h…