2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance

My truck 01 cummins has been sitting 2 days with block heater plugged in. I'm out side today and I look over and witness a leak just start and drip a good sized puddle. So I investigate and it's coming out of the cap on the power steering. I took off the cap and it's over flowing. Any ideas?

So had the thought after changing my FASS 150 gph filter's and still only holding 13psi same at idle, driving and 12 1/2WOT. Would it be at all benifical to place a inline fuel pump between the FASS and VP44? When i changed the lift pump on our work truck only cost $150 at napa and it was a simple two wire horisontial pump with a inlet and outlet not the stock canister type and it really moved the fuel (No Gauge we bucket tested it). Would it raise the PSI or just pull the fass more with no real affect. In a sense burning the fass pump up. Just a thought kinda like a Dual CP3 on newer truck's. Any thought's?

Ok guys i need to change out the clear cheap hose that came with the boost gauge for something more reliable. any suggestion? What is this polyon?

Having issues guys. Running a s467.7 on a steed speed t4 manifold. I have changed the exhaust housing to a .90, changed converter stall, tried to pull fuel out with tuning. Still no goose. On a side note the truck feels like it his a brick wall when the light throttle timing advance drops out on the Quadzilla. 74DC9F3A-BF7D-41AD-BBCC-07AE51BE7EC2.mov

Does the turbo on my 2001 have a way to limit the boost? When using my quad box on level 3 (same as Edge Comp 5x5) I hit 40 PSI... I was told on the other forum that I can get a boost elbow to stop it at a certain point? Any explanation of this would be appreciated.

This has been a lot harder than expected to get all the correct components. If I write a detailed account, better as a post or article? It will save a lot of figuring and running around. Lug nuts being the hard part. I'd need to know how to write an article.

Has anyone utilized "Spare" fuse number 16 for providing ignition signal to a tuner, etc.? Wiring diagram page 8W-12-6 shows that the fuse would be powered in both the RUN position and the Accessories position. I'm not sure if it's bad for the Adrenaline to get power while the engine isn't running; I can't imagine it'd draw more than the radio, which is the only time I really use the ACC position. Would be nice to be able to view Quad without my blasted grid heater drawing juice or the engine running. Quad recommends Fuse 9, and it differs in that it gets power in the START and RUN positions, but not ACC. Anyone see a downside to what I propose?

I have read a previous post about the torque management system on these trucks. It seems that you can put a switch on the Park/ reverse switch on the transmission and connect two wires to be able to cut it on and off. I have my truck built to race but my only problem is it won’t launch or build anymore than 10psi of boost off the launch. So my question is did anyone ever try this or successfully put in a switch? I’m curious if you have to cut the power completely to the transmission going through those 2 wires or if you just need to put in a jumper. Thanks.

Bought truck a couple of months back and am not happy with towing performance, so planning on upgrading injectors to add some more power. Might go 100 hp, just need to decide on type and size. Probably will need a tuner of some type too, leaning towards the Quadzilla Adrenaline. I believe the trans has been built, it does have a billet converter, but that is all I know about it. Might drop the pan and see if I can find out more about it. 47RE trans, shifts well, firm and no hunting, but just wondering if it is normal for rpms to drop back to 900 when coasting. 4.10 rear end, running 265/80/17 rubber.

how come i am getting a p0602 code?the smarty says fuel calibration?

Door sticker is inflation for max weight capacity. Kind of like my truck 65 PSI in the front then 80 PSI in the rear. Now doing it correct. Front axle is 4,440 pounds, and 2860 pounds in the rear. Tires are Es with 3,042 PSI at 80 PSI. (4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 = 0.72 × 80 = 58.3 PSI Front inflation (2,860 / 2) = 1,430 / 3,042 = 0.47 × 80 = 37.6 PSI Rear inflation Smooth ride and no impact on performance or economy.

So I had to change out my ECM and forgot to reset my smarty back to "stock" settings before I pulled out the original ECM and sent it off. Now when I try to load Smarty settings it says "New ECM" and won't download anything. How do you "reset" this thing to work again? Bob Wagner is the rep. here in the USA for Smarty but I have no contact information.

Does anybody have a good recommendation for a DIY or aftermarket fuel filter setup for a 2000? A few months ago I replaced a leaky drain valve with a new one from Geno’s, but I still don’t really trust it. Also, the internals for the wif sensor and fuel heater were both crusty and non functional. I prefer to keep things simple and stock but I don’t wanna worry about leaks, plus that canister is a pain to get off and on. I have a Raptor 4G mounted to the frame rail and 1/2” lines tank to pump.

i'm installing mine today! if your thinking about one, here are the instructions http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=82

I know the smarty and edge stock aren't optimal for top end power but I love the low end grunt the smarty adds. I was wondering if any one was running anything close and what would be good for my set up. I don't think I can adjust the timing since the edge does that. Also I know i can only run the fuel only tunes. I think the TM only boosts throttle sensitivity on my year. I understand what duration does but I don't know if the Comp does that. I am currently running on SW5 and am seeing a little over 18mpg with the comp on 5x5. I'm only one week on my new set up.

Towing for the first time since plugging in boost foother. 7x09 injectors have been running toasty had to peddle off egts on most all grades while towing even light loads. With heavy loads 10k machin 5k trailer your have really watch it on flat ground. Pulling the few grades from mtn home to Jerome Cruise is on at 1800rpm pulling 30lbs of boost on grades that are 3 or so miles long hottest I saw was 1100 before I'd be peddling of the maintain 1200 and easily saw 1400. On the way back theres a steeper longer grade. I'll see what it does there I expect 1200ish and more boost. So far this boost fooler seems to be working wonder…

hey guys, I want to test my fuel pressure and noticed on my fuelcaster I only have a banjo for the inlet and no port to hook up gauge up to.does anybody have a part number or a link to get a banjo that can accept a gauge port? any help would be greatly appreciated thank you

this spring i plan on dropping the tank out of my 02. i already have an airdog with a 1/2" draw straw but imn sick of low level slosh issues. im going to get a vulcan draw straw V. but while im at it, i wanna run 1/2" return lines too and have em dump into the canister rather than the filler neck. i was just wondering what size the banjo return fittings are? so i can put a jic fitting on the back of the head like the airdog supply. and from what ive found i need a barbed banjo fitting fo rthe return off the pump because of the pressure valve in the bolt. just dont know what size for that either.thanks

Ok I have fallen on quite a bit of misfortune in the last few weeks. I have a cummins 8.3isx engine that seized a bearing and blew a hole in the side of the block. I also have a 24 valve with a spent vp44. I am trying to find a way to make one running engine out of the two. Will the 8.3 with the mechanical pump have all of the parts I need to convert the 24 valve to a p pump? And no, i won't be keeping the engine, I will be selling it to purchase a 6.7 for the Chummy. I love my quad and do not want to convert the Chummy to mechanical gauges. Is it possible?

Ive been trying to research this and not getting the answers im looking for. Is it worth getting those coolers that is offered on Genos Garage for the nv5600? I dont tow much weight when i do to atleast for now. Once in a while i might tow 10k but thats in a blue moon. I am going to be changing fluids soon and will add the extra quart or two and just want to know if it really is worth it. Also im hearing different things about fluids and shifting smoother. Some say royal purple and other amsoil or redline. Any input on thatThanks