Just wondering how many people have done Mikes crankcase vent. I knew about the vent problem and his inexpensive repair but put it off until my radiator looked like this;

So I cleaned my radiator, intercooler, engine...and added Mikes upgrade and haven't had a problem since. Also, my truck doesn't smell like oil after an oil change like it used to.

It is big enough line and it doesn't sit and idle enough to get them amount of condensation required to plug it up. The only time I have ever seen engines freeze up a vent line is if it where partially plugged with debris already and or excessive idling in wet freezing weather. An engine under load and at operating temps should never freeze up a clean vent line unless it has water in the crankcase or something else wrong.

I'm surprised to see a few people saying they are NOT going to do the mod...

I don't have the skills you do with pvc, and I'm a tight arse. ~24"s of 1" ID fuel line, I had laying around, has an interference fit with the stock hose, where the snot bottle is supposed to be. Ran it down and over the front axle, it keeps the under side of the truck lubed. No snot bottle mess and accomplishes the same thing as all the elbows and pipe.

I am not doing the mod cause there is no problem present. 127,000 miles and the only oil that appears on my engine is when I miss pouring it in at oil change time!

i do not think i have a prob with blow-by...i think it might be the off road thing. i posted some pics of an oily mess a while ago...i cleaned it up and it hasn't come back. and i haven't been around the hunting lease either. when i bought this truck at 125k it didn't have a puke bottle(and didn't appear to have a mount for it). i thought about putting a bottle on until i read about all the problems associated with them. i had extended the hose with some drop bury pipe, but that eventually fell of. i would like to keep the trans free from gunk...so how long is too long for the hose?

I got to thinking about all this and remembered my ford. It has a tube going up the valley and then 90's into the intake. Interesting idea but the whole intake was of course, coated in the crap. Definitely would keep from leaking oil until the truck flipped over. Not that it would matter since it never seemed to contain more than a quart at any one time.

I am not doing the mod cause there is no problem present. 127,000 miles and the only oil that appears on my engine is when I miss pouring it in at oil change time!

I got a fix for that too...

http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cummins/general/funnel/funnel.htm

No mess funnel that will take large amounts of oil without overfilling the funnel!

gonna get started on it this weekendif I get to lowesGotta go buy my flyrod first !

MoparMan do you have an exact parts list for crank case vent modification?

MoparMan do you have an exact parts list for crank case vent modification?

Last year I had a serious problem with my puke bottle that ended with the installation of Mike's crankcase mod. I started a thread about it on CF -should-have-lost-my-puke-bottle-long-ago After that, I received about 8 million (give or take) PM's asking questions about Mike's crankcase mod. So I posted this to try to answer most of the questions: "Since I posted this write-up a couple of months ago and Mopar1973Man put it on his website, I've gotten quite a few PM's with questions. I thought I would try to answer them all here. The most common question is what size pipe and hose to use. The pipe is 1/2" PVC and the hose is 3/4" I.D. heater hose. Make sure you get 1/2" PVC not CPVC (usually cream colored) because their dimensions are not the same. A foot of 3/4" heater hose is plenty. The heater hose slides easily over the crankcase vent nipple but the PVC has an outside diameter of almost 7/8" so it has to be stretched a little to fit over. I used a little soap and it slid on without a major fight. You could use a different type of hose but be careful to check the inside dimension because some vinyl hose is sold by the outside diameter. For the rear 90 degree bend (the one that goes down behind the engine), Mike used a couple of threaded fittings. This makes it easier to install and you don't have to worry about getting glue on your motor. It's also easier to remove if you have to do motor work. There are several fitting you could use for this. I used a 90 degree elbow that has female thread on one side (costs 36 cents) and a straight fitting with male threads (costs 31 cents). Another question is the affect of heat on the pipe and black paint. Both are unaffected by the engine heat. I used paint made specifically for plastic. It's been my experience that this paint wont peel and is harder to scratch than regular spray paint. I recommend scuffing the shine off of the pipe with some fine sand paper even if the paint directions say you don't have to. I find it sticks better that way. The plastic paint is more expensive than regular spray paint but I had some in my shed so I used it. Being a cheap S.O.B, I probably would have bought a can of 99 cent Home Depot spray paint if I had to buy it. I recommend Mopar1973Man's crankcase mod to everyone who has a puke bottle on their truck. It is one of the best mods I've done. It's also very cheap. The pipe is $1.03 for a 10 foot piece and the fittings are 25 to 50 cents a piece. This is what I used: 1/2" PVC pipe (usually sold in 10' lengths) 3 - 90 degree elbows 1 - 90 degree SOC X FPT 1 - male adapter SOC X MPT PVC Cement sand paper 1 foot heater hose or similar 3/4" I.D. hose 2 hose clamps to fit over the heater hose paint"

No... Only thr oil vapor and crankcase blowby gasses travel the pipe. This corrects both TSBs for oils... TSB 09-002-02 Oil Overflow From Crankcase Vent TSB 09-02-00 - Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor

These links are not working for me.

This links are not working for me.

Here you go http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/crankcase-vent/crankcase-vent.htm Both links to those service bulletins are on there too, underlined in blue.

Just joined - woo hoo - no more smelly puke overflow Shaa-Z-aam

I don't know why anyone would NOT do this mod? It's simple and it works. I have both of my 02's done and I don't have the oil smell in the cab anymore and don't have to worry about crap all over my radi and engine.

I ran one of these for a few years and it worked great. It was originaslly designed for diesel marine engines where they needed to keep engine bays clean and control or eliminate water contamination as well. There is a lot of info on the site and worth a look and read. http://www.walkerairsep.com/product_detail.asp?id=439

I started to do the mod. But I thought the 90 degree SOC X MPT was to connect the hose to.

Then was lost on how to do the back.(It’s been a while since I read this post.)

I see that there are many ways of doing this mod. My question is are there any down falls to using about 2 ft of heater hose for the down pipe on the rear? I would just get another SOC X MPT. Maybe step up to a 5/8 hose for the rear.?

Not sure there would be anything bad about it if it was tied off. the way some of the guys did it which I followed was the pvc with one male thread and one female and that way if you need to service or remove it you can just twist it and 'unthread it' and remove it.I did have a little trouble getting the thread started from the bottom - but a bit of fiddling and was all ok.The PVC will keep a solid open 'vent' out - no reason why a heater hose wouldn't but I guess it could pinch at sometime..

Here is my vent system

i used a hose for the rear. Its from a washing machine and goes over the 90

Interesting design change.... I really wonder how long the down pipe hose will last with oil residue?

the reason i guess i wont b doing the ccv upgrade ....unless i am not seeing things right there is no place to attach a line :shrug:

the reason i guess i wont b doing the ccv upgrade ....unless i am not seeing things right there is no place to attach a line :shrug:

You already had it done look back on the tappet cover and towards the rear of the engine you'll see you down pipe...