Here it goes...first new topic! Well I finally ordered a FASS150 and a draw straw 5 yesterday from DAP! I have a 2000 2500 5speed 4x4 unfortunately with Dodge's intank pump "fix". I'm looking to tap into the wealth of knowledge here to see if anyone has any tips or tricks for the install? Past experience or things anyone may have done differently? Thanks in advance for any advice everyone!

Easiest way.
Unbolt bed.

Tilt it with support from other side. Its a fine line befoer it will fall. Enough access to get to tank.

Drill and install per instructions.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/8792-vulcan-draw-straw-installation.html

Run the lines from pump to vp44 and connect through frame rail
run wiring harness along frame rail to engine compartment from pump - secure and protect

Install the fass on rail and connect to lines and harness.

Prime and start.

 

Dropping the tank is a PITA if it has any fuel. But makes some parts easier.

 

 

 

I just followed the draw straw instructions.  

 

The most important thing is that you ensure the draw straw is set close to the bottom of the tank.  

Easiest way.
Unbolt bed.

Tilt it with support from other side. Its a fine line befoer it will fall. Enough access to get to tank.

Drill and install per instructions.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-engine/8792-vulcan-draw-straw-installation.html

Run the lines from pump to vp44 and connect through frame rail
run wiring harness along frame rail to engine compartment from pump - secure and protect

Install the fass on rail and connect to lines and harness.

Prime and start.

 

Dropping the tank is a PITA if it has any fuel. But makes some parts easier.

 

 

 

Ive read about tilting the bed and seriously going to give it a go. At this point with 3/4 of a tank of fuel I think that may be my best option 

That's how I have done it for the last couple times I needed access.  Jack up with a high lift jack or similar.

The brown truck dropped off some goodies today! FASS Titanium 150, draw straw 5 and a big line kit filter to vp44. Hopefully get them installed early next week. 

That's the one that replaces your in tank pump, same one I got. I have some pictures in few posts here. I took my bed off with engine hoist and ratchet straps. Fuel module I cleaned realy good before using strap wrench to unscrew big white ring. Also I made my own return back to module in1/2 line that way I don't have pressure change from idle to wide open. 

First page of this post are some picture of what I did on draw straw, http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/10541-big-line-kit/

I put mine under driver side bad like most people do with fass since it's a lot bigger then airdog and added some 1/2" ball valves for easier filter change so you don't have to pinch line off with wise grips when changing filters. Then I put a piece of aluminum to cover it from crap flying off tire.  

Edited October 24, 20159 yr by Dieselfuture

The engine hoist sounds like the ticket 

Also use some pipe dope on all threads, even though they are jic fittings and will seal just fine, the threads them self will rust and be a bi.h to get apart later. Just don't get any inside fuel line itself. At work we do a lot of underground pipes and an old timer putting flare fittings and other fittings together always uses pipe dope, one day I asked him " what you don't trust your flare?" He looked at me smiled and said "you young bucks think you know it all ha" and about 5 minutes later said" I might not be around to fix this next time but I sure don't want you cursing me out when time comes."

Wow, I didn't even think to put a ball valve in there for filter changes... I'm totally doing that next change! Great idea!

I use my front-end loader to lift the bed off. It's a lot easier that way. ;)

I got a replacement straw for a customers truck I got to install. The previous shop cut it so short it running out of fuel at 1/4 tank now.

Tell you the truth it much much easiest to drop a tank than lift a bed. I can drop a fuel tank quicker than fighting to jack and support a very heavy bed that might slip off and do some serious injury or damage the bed attempting to hinge off of a couple of bolts which doesn't work for long beds at all. With the tank dropped you can see to work much easier...

5 hours ago, ronman said:

Wow, I didn't even think to put a ball valve in there for filter changes... I'm totally doing that next change! Great idea!

I use my front-end loader to lift the bed off. It's a lot easier that way. ;)

Put 1/2'' ball valves on each side of the filter and LP then you won't loose prime on the engine side.

8 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Tell you the truth it much much easiest to drop a tank than lift a bed. I can drop a fuel tank quicker than fighting to jack and support a very heavy bed that might slip off and do some serious injury or damage the bed attempting to hinge off of a couple of bolts which doesn't work for long beds at all.

-- 8 bolts and 2 heavy duty ratchet straps off ceiling support to lift and support side if bed.  About 15 mins;)

 

 

We've all got our preferences... I've got 2 safety chain hooks, the turnover ball arm has to be bent back straight so it'll slide through the hole, in-bed gooseneck wiring has to be unplugged, filler neck is a pita, 6 bed bolts, and you ALWAYS risk scratching paint when removing the bed. For me 1 floor jack, 2 straps, 1 wiring plug, and a couple fuel lines is much easier. 

The discussion in the past about dropping the tank is getting a reliable measure to the bottom of the tank.  If you drop the tank - when the tank is setting on the floor - how do you account for flex of the bottom of the tank to get a good measurement.  If you lift the truck bed - the tank is in the correct position.

I am fortunate to have a 2 post lift in my garage - so I raise the lift up - back the truck bed under the arms - attach straps to the bed and lift arms and then lift it straight up.  Raise the bed up 2 ft and do some safety chocking...do the work on the tank, then remove chocks and lower it back down.  Fast and easy!

I a a tank dropper myself. Usually I am by myself and have no way to lift the bed. A little cribbing under each end of the tank, unbolt the straps and walk it down off the cribbing. I dont use a draw straw, but if I had to cut one I would just support the tank where the straps hold it up and you should be able to get an accurate measurement.

Pretty much a personal choice for whoever is doing it I guess.

Edited November 4, 20159 yr by dripley

Yes a bed lift and installing a straw give the best results only if the tank is EMPTY. This way you see the tank at its smallest size. Then when you fill the tank the weight of the fuel will pull the tank bottom down and away from the straw. This is why I cut the straw tight to the bottom so as the fuel is running out the tank bottom rises to the tip of the straw getting more out.

So this why I like dropping the tank and resting it on the edge of 2x4 lumber at the band points. You can work really easy and can clean up your drill shaving in the tank.

That's why I like the draw straw5 in fuel basket set up, fuel basket moves with tank. 

my AD came with a kit to delete the in tank pump. The fuel pick is in the basket and will suck the tank pretty dry. never had a bit of trouble out of it.

I can run by tank down to less than 2 gallons without any pressure issues using my DrawStraw.

Back in 2006 when I bought my AirDog 150 the Drawstraw V was not even a option. Of course I took my time and installed it right and never had a single issue with the old school straw. I've been down to the empty mark a few times. I've drained my tank a few times and there is less than a quart of fuel left.