Merging onto highway, truck running just fine. Get to 55-60ish and sudden loss of power, not decreased, nothing. Rpms looked ok, think i hit it to see if it revved, but now I cant remember if it did. I remember thinking that i just lost my trans. But in tbe dame moment my engine was dead. I was only trying to stay safe and no longer diagnose. As i coastef up different offramp, i had it in N and tried to start.cranked but no start.

Stopped it, i turn key on,i hear a motor upfront. Try to start. Engine cranks, but doesnt start. W key on, i am reading no oil presure on OEM gauge. Well, needle just comes up a little but is still touching red zero line.

Oil seems ok, trans fluid seems ok, adiator is cool and full of coolant and temp gauge says 140. When I turn key off then on, i dont hear any motors in the rear like a fuel pump.

 

Ideas? Did my Fuel pump give up? Vp44?

I have basically zero tools. I would have to go home. I do have my OBDLink MX and phone. But I dont seem able to get the codes off it usong turbo. I will even take help w that. I think i have the obd software on here, but jave to go look. LG G2 phoneand have turbo free on it.

 

Currently sitting safe at a gas station 3 blocks or so fromw where i stopped. Had my chains and a couple guys pulled me here.

On ‎4‎/‎6‎/‎2016 at 8:49 PM, jamman said:

I backed them way off, basically to the point it was going to come off. But I'll double check myself and step through it all again. As always, when it rains it pours, so I'm trying to get to it. I had to go buy a vehicle just so I could keep rolling. But I'm going to get my girl running.

LOL.... I just realized that the bolts on top of that filter/separator are the Fuel Pressure Test Ports! I feel like a real idiot.

 

What size are those bolts so I can fab up a test gauge??

From my experience with my son`s 24V`s from the times he ran out of fuel, was to take one of the plugs out of the top of the filter canister,, bump the starter till fuel flows, reinstall the plug. Then crack three of the lines at the injectors, hold the foot pedal on the floor and crank 10-15seconds at a time..... If you not seeing fuel after 2-3 times or having a cylinder starting to hit?? I would suspect you may have an injector pump issue.

Hello everyone!

 

I've been working like crazy. Not enough hours in the day to do it all. I work in a field now that they don't appreciate you coming in smelling like diesel fuel, so I hadn't been cracking into the fuel system. I did. I took out one of the Test Port Fittings on the Fuel/Water Separator. I found out that is a regular tapered pipe thread. I got a pressure check kit (which after I paid $40 for it found out that it isn't designed for diesel use, so likely have to consider it a 1 time diagnostic fee) and fittings to make it work.

 

Good and bad news....

 

I placed the gauge on the "in"(closest to cab) side of the F/WS, bled it and bumped and turned crank. I got about 12psi. I did the same on the "out" (closest to radiator) side and got the same 12 psi. So it would appear that my fuel transfer pump is pumping it well.

 

I cracked the #1 injector and bumped. Then bumped. Then bumped. Nothing. I tightened that and cracked #3 and bumped. And bumped. And cranked. Nothing.

 

I was re-reading some of the comments above. Perhaps I should go crack (read-I unscrewed it a few turns but didn't have it unthreaded) an injector and crank it for 10-15 secs a few times? Or is the VP-44 just 86'ed?

Loosen injectors 1,3,5 or similar and crank for at least 30 seconds.  It may take a good bit of time to see diesel.

 

This works best with a spotter, but you must crank in order to see fuel out of the injector lines.

Yeah, that is part of what is making this tough, I am working alone. So I'll loosen 1,3 and 5 (how much?) and crank 30 secs. If I hadn't already showered up and 5:30 coming quickly, I'd just about go back out and try it.

 

You want them a good 2-3 turns loose from fully tight. I typically loosen the fitting at the vp as well just to make sure I get the air out as much as possible. Then I crack the injectors.

 

Ive always primed my trucks by myself. I will either set myself up so I can see the injectors through the roof or I half stand out of the cab so I can see around the hood but still crank.

 

Usually once you get fuel to the lines at the head, the truck will try and start, but stumble and die. Once that happens I'll tighten up the injectors a little more, that way not as much fuel will spray once it's starts but still cracked enough to let air out. Next time I crank it over it should start and then it's a mad dash to run around and get in there to start tightening everything up. 

 

Hooe me you get her running!

The saga continues...

 

Batteries were dead yesterday so I had to charge the overnight and today. #1, 3 and 4 were still loose from the other day. I cranked for a 30 count. It turned and turned, never acted like it would start. I let it rest a while. Thought I might have seen a little fuel under #3. I backed off #1 and #3 so they were wobbling but still holding the threads just a touch and #4 was very loose. Crank for a 30 count. It turned and turned, never acted like it would start. Let it rest for a little while. Crank for a 30 count. It turned and turned, never acted like it would start. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Crank for a 30 count. It turned and turned, never acted like it would start.

 

I never got anything as far as it trying to stutter or come to life.

 

I tried to get codes in case there had been a change. I could not get my OBDlink MX Bluetooth to pair and connect with either phone. I'll try a tablet tomorrow, but I don't understand. I'm wondering if my darned reader got fried. Does anyone have suggestions on working with it?

So try tightening up the injector lines and loosen the line at the fuel filter housing that goes to the VP44. Do the same process, bump the starter, let the pump run for a bit untill all the air bubbles go away and straight fuel comes out of filter and tighten it down. After that, do the same at the VP44 supply line. Once you have solid fuel coming out there, tighten down with fuel still coming out. THEN go back to doing the same thing at the injectors, except instead of just bumping the starter, cranking for 15-30 seconds. Fuel should come out then for sure. If your not getting fuel at all, you'll need to check to make sure you have power to your lift pump and that it's actually working. Check connections and fuses, your lift pump could've of gone dead.

Get everything tight and then work through the system. Make sure you LP is running, make sure your filter canister is full. 

Also, I once had connection issues with my OBD Link, it was because I was not pressing the sync button on the stupid thing.  Good luck.

I will go back and do that, but when I initially broke down I removed each of the test ports in turn and had fuel spew all over when I bumped the starter and had fuel coming from the VP44 banjo bolt when I loosened it. But this was back in March. But I did get ~12 psi out of both the test ports 2 days ago.

Yea you really have to bleed out the air starting from the fuel filter then VP then injector lines at the head. Make sure that whichever area your bleeding, you don't want to tighten down that section until you have SOLID fuel coming out. If you do it when solid fuel isn't running or when the system isn't pushing fuel through the lines then you're just going to still have air in the lines.

It's really odd how some trucks have such issues bleeding air out of the fuel lines, and some like mine, don't really. I've had my fuel system apart countless times and I never crack injector lines. Mostly because I had such issues with leaks there in the past that it's just not worth it lol. Even with my fuel boss that only pump when the engine is turning, I just crank for about ten seconds, then wait about a minute to take it easy on the starter, then crank another ten seconds, then wait a minute, and so on till it starts. If I have the line from filter housing to vp44 off it might take about fives cycles of that but then it's fine.

With both my trucks, I bleed them slightly different. Both technically the same but still different.

I only have the one truck and most times it has bed very easy and a few others nothing but a PITA. Go figure.

If there is still priming issues I would loosen the fitting at the V44 inlet and verify there is fuel at the VP44. Now there is just the air pocket in the pump at the worse. As for the nut on the injection lines I've been known to spin then all the off so you looking at the exposed the joint. That way you can see if there is pressure or dribble of fuel. Yes its possible for VP44 to fail without codes.

I have been working like a mad man and lacked lots of motivation to chase the truck as I was 95% certain I had an expensive fix on my hands. Rather than spending 1,000's of dollars on a misdiagnosis I had another diesel tech/Dodge aficionado come by and..... he agrees, VP is dead.

 

So I suppose Eric at Vulcan and I are going to be spending some time corresponding. I need a VP, aftermarket lift pump, big line kit, I need to order the auto transmission replacement kit from here as my metal ones had been wearing out just before this, and gauges and A pillar. DANG, this got crazy expensive. I can't even begin to tally up what this is going to cost.

 

I will update as I make my selections/purchases and then work to install it all. I'm getting an estimate from a local shop, but with the cash outlay this represents, I doubt I can hire them to do it and will do all the work myself.

 

I appreciate all the support and help you guys give.

I had to do all of that but got to do it in stages.

 

Have not gotten the trans pressure lines changed yet and cannot find where they rub and wear against anything.

 

I'm glad you are dealing with Vulcan Performance / Eric is a good one to do business with.

If I remember correctly, DAP has a package deal for an IP and a new lift pump.  I can't pull up DAP's page but I think it was a pretty good deal.  I don't have any of the specifics on which pump it was, but maybe something to look into. It may save you some money now.

I would just stay with Eric at Vulcan performance. He will give you a fair shake for the things he knows is best. Such as a new PSG board on the VP44. He won't sell anything that has the least bit of problems or anything that has a marginal history.

 

Eric will talk turkey too... just tell him to make you a deal if he can on a package deal. Eric, by no means is getting wealthy as he is an honest guy. I've been to his place several times and he is of the best character. Spent a couple Saturdays with him working on my truck in the early days of him starting the business.

I've bought from Vulcan and DAP and I've never had an issue with either.  Both very good to deal with.

6 hours ago, Hawkez said:

If I remember correctly, DAP has a package deal for an IP and a new lift pump.  I can't pull up DAP's page but I think it was a pretty good deal.  I don't have any of the specifics on which pump it was, but maybe something to look into. It may save you some money now.

Sao is still having 10% off for their Labor Day sale