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Sorry if this is in the wrong place but with 305k on the clock and the top end just being gone through and a new turbo install, I ask the question how long can we expect an oil pump to last?  Mine is original to the best of my knowledge.

 

It's a concern of mine only because certain items can't be allowed to fail without incurring copious amounts of extra money in damage to related parts (lift pump, turbo and so on) 

I am tempted just to replace it just because, but my old man has a point "let sleeping dogs lie" ie it has no signs of issue so why change it.....

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  • I agree with your "old man"!  If it's not broke don't fix it.  You still have good oil pressure right?  

  • When I am driving down the highway and checking my gauges, oil pressure is always one I look at. Then I realize it is really not telling me what I want to know. I still have not done anything about it

  • WiscoRedkneck
    WiscoRedkneck

    Ya dash gauge shows good I'll test it with a hand gauge and see how the two compare

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I have 380k on mine with the oe pump. Never had any reason to touch the engine internals other than adjusting the valves and injector replacement. Oil pump failure is not anything I have read about being a weak  link. 

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I agree with your "old man"!  If it's not broke don't fix it.  You still have good oil pressure right?  

When I am driving down the highway and checking my gauges, oil pressure is always one I look at. Then I realize it is really not telling me what I want to know. I still have not done anything about it. I do have one spot open on the triple pod. Hmmm!!!

How do you check with a test gauges? Mine fluctuates from top end of normal at startup to just below middle at idle when warm and up around 70 maybe while driving. Does that still mean it's a dummy? 

43 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

How do you check with a test gauges? Mine fluctuates from top end of normal at startup to just below middle at idle when warm and up around 70 maybe while driving. Does that still mean it's a dummy? 

Pretty much. It is tied to the ECT sensor and maybe the IAT, not sure how. You can really see it if you have a high idle switch. Turn it on with the engine running and cold. When the sensor gets fooled to think it is warm the oil pressure will drop as the temp gauge rises. That is on a cold engine being fooled by the high idle switch.

 

43 minutes ago, leathermaneod said:

How do you check with a test gauges? Mine fluctuates from top end of normal at startup to just below iddle at idle when warm and up around 70 maybe while driving. Does that still mean it's a dummy? 

 

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I was under the impression that I could pull the sensor and install my pressure guage in line with it through a t... then run it up to the cowl and set the guage where the driver can see it and drive it and see how the two compare or can I see pressure through a scanner or programmer through obd2 port

Not sure what you can do in line with the oe sensor but there is another outlet about midway on the block near the oil pan on the drivers side. I had an oil pressure switch there for my old fuel booster pump I ran years ago. You could use that for sure. 

 

My scan gauge II does not read the sensor. I think the sensor only puts out there is pressure and not how much. That is my understanding anyway. 

Edited by dripley

Hmmm I'll have to double check but I don't think my oil pressure does fluctuate when I use high idle....

It does not fluctuate while in use, just when the high idle is turned on and off.  Mike has a video of his doing it. It is on the first page about half way down in this thread.

Not sure what year trucks it is true for. Seems to be alot of discussion here and there about it.

They are a mechanically driven gerotor pump which are known for longevity (unless you have a freak incident). 

 

It's not something I would worry about but if you do want to change it out they are easy to install once you pull the timing cover. 

Quote

My scan gauge II does not read the sensor. I think the sensor only puts out there is pressure and not how much. That is my understanding anyway. 

I can read the oil pressure with my scan tool.

I'm not sure how accurate it is but at 29 PSI the cluster gauge shows 40 PSI.

Oil pressure.jpg

EDIT:

Perhaps this will be useful to some of you with the odb2 scanner.
PID 2541    Oil Pressure    Oil Press    Pressure    0    100    1    Y    OilPres    DCx Sensors    n    none

 

I got that info from:

http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/131-wk1-tuning-cmr-dyno-datalogging-gauges/19781-i-finally-got-around-listing-pids-dashhawk-can-see.html
 

Edited by Chris O.

Isn't there are port on top of the Oil filter housing that you could tap into to get oil pressure?

I am pretty sure right next to the line going to the turbo is an unused port on the filter adapter.  You can put a mechanical gauge right there.

 

HTH

 

Hag

Mike,

 

You should try that PID for oil pressure on your truck and see if it is there.   I doubt you would see it, but it would be good to try.

 

chris,

 

That oil pressure reading is about right for low revs.  

  • Owner
4 hours ago, Me78569 said:

 

Mike,

 

You should try that PID for oil pressure on your truck and see if it is there.   I doubt you would see it, but it would be good to try.

 

 

Nope, not present... On the CCD network.

Mike is correct on the CCD BUS, that's how the cluster gauge knows how to show the oil pressure.
Now I believe the problem is the OBDII compliance in our diesel truck
OBDII used to be only for vehicles <8500 lbs GVW. They raised it to 14,000 in 2004,
our diesel trucks where not required to be OBDII compliant.

But anyways I can definitely read the oil pressure with my scan tool.
It could be a different PID but the oil pressure is definitely available thru ISO9141-2,  SCI BUS

 

IMG_20160906_192356605.jpg

oil pressure is open on sci bus for 98.5-00 trucks.  01/02 didn't get it, dunno why.

 

Might have something to do with the oil pressure compaints they were getting from people..

Edited by Me78569