I am simply going to ask random questions regarding my truck and upgrades, feedback on upgrades others have done....anecdotal evidence etc....

 

To start off...has anyone ran the stainless diesel manifold? (http://www.crazycarlsturbos.com/Stainless-Diesel-Exaust-Manifold-SDman.htm) If so....what is your opinion on it?

 

I am slowly preparing for compounds OR just a larger single, haven't decided yet. Specific setup is still not known at this point, however I do know I want reliability and usability over everything. In my other thread, TFaoro made some excellent points (

). 

 

 

I'll be back with more ?s. Thanks.

 

 

 

 

PS TFaoro.....trailer weighs 5,560 pounds  I'll see about getting a pic up here soon. 

 

Sorry this is off subject kinda but @Dynamic friend of mine has a 12vale I believe it's a 95 and when on hwy he pushes go pedal down but instead of downshifting it seems like it up shifts and becomes a dog. I don't know if torque converter is doing something funny or the tranny it self, someone suggested adjusting kick down cable too. Otherwise it doesn't slip and shifts firm, if it was an older Chevy tranny I'd try helping him adjusting kick down cable as its very simple on a Chevy, pop clip full throttle as throttle all the way depressed put clip back in and done, but on doge I just don't know. Supposedly he took his alternator to shop and had it rebuild, specifying that it was still charging but needed to make sure diodes were good. Anyways thanks or any input.

On a 12 valve, I set the TV cable so that the WOT 1-2 shift point occurs at about 2750-2800 rpm. If it's early, tighten the cable, if it's late, loosen it. That is the best, down and dirty method that I have found for getting your TV in right range.

On 2/18/2018 at 6:46 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

We've got a heck of a thread going attempting to resolve the whole alternator AC noise issue for good. The best I can tell you that the grid heater are the cause of the diodes failing as for solution for keeping the diodes from getting damaged is still not found yet. We are working for a long-term solution. I'm still of the opinion that the grid heaters as the age and the solenoids that control them tend to create more load than the alternator can handle so the diodes overheat and fail. 

Is there a good write up somewhere on how to wire the grid heaters to a toggle switch? Where one could flip them off once their job is done and the truck is started and running. I mean I don’t see the need for them to continue to cycle for minutes after the truck is started. 

 

 

Edit: one of these days when I move to Phoenix,  won’t ever need the grids again haha 

Edited February 20, 20187 yr by crf450ish

23 hours ago, Dynamic said:

It would be interesting to know whether they need better diodes, or better cooling for the diodes that are being used.

 

Actually need to reduce the load on the diodes what we are figuring out. Why is it that trucks like my own make 10 years or more without an alternator issue then can't hold an alternator for more than a 4 month to a year and bam the alternator is back out again? So I'm testing now by ditching the grid heaters for now and see if the problem is gone. If so then I'm going to look into replacing my grid heater and solenoids I think that grid heater draw more current as they age. (Theory...)

On 2/18/2018 at 8:46 PM, Mopar1973Man said:

We've got a heck of a thread going attempting to resolve the whole alternator AC noise issue for good. The best I can tell you that the grid heater are the cause of the diodes failing as for solution for keeping the diodes from getting damaged is still not found yet. We are working for a long-term solution. I'm still of the opinion that the grid heaters as the age and the solenoids that control them tend to create more load than the alternator can handle so the diodes overheat and fail. 

 

 

If this is the case, then you want an alternator field disconnect. Install an auxiliary relay that energizes when the grid heater activates, and wire the alternator field wire through a normally closed set of contacts on the auxiliary relay. The grid heaters will never go through the alternator again.

 

On 2/20/2018 at 8:24 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

If so then I'm going to look into replacing my grid heater and solenoids I think that grid heater draw more current as they age. (Theory...)

 

I can't buy this theory. Its just a heater element. The only way it can increase in current draw is for the resistance to be lowered. The element, if anything, would increase in resistance if it were damaged. This would lower current draw (and associated heat). It would take some pretty heavy foreign contamination to decrease the resistance.

 

What I could buy, is that a lot of trucks with not so healthy batteries and/or battery connections will have a slightly higher resistance connection to the batteries than the alternator. Electricity will always follow the path of least resistance. Under the extreme electrical load of the grid heaters, a poor battery and/or connection will demonstrate a decrease in available voltage. The alternator, which is by design at a higher potential, coupled with the possibilities of a storage system (batteries and associated connections) that may not be at 100% working condition, will take more and more of the electrical load as external conditions worsen.

 

A disconnect of the alternator field should prevent the grids from raping the alternator of maximum power either way. I'm very curious to find out if that slows down alternator diode failures.

Edited February 22, 20187 yr by kzimmer

Good point. But all my battery cables are in excellent condition and no loss in the connection or cables. The only thing that I can find that is in excess of rating would be grid heaters.

 

So explain this picture and why the fusible link has blown? 400 Amp load? (No this is not my truck but this is a 12V Cummins)

 

Again...

Edited February 22, 20187 yr by Mopar1973Man

I'm not sure what situation got the 400 amp load, or if those gauges were hooked up properly. Or if they are accurate. However, I did blow my fusible link once. And it was because after I'd had taken the grid heater off a couple times, I wore out the insulating material where the lugs bolt on to the grid studs. The funny thing is it didn't do it right away. Maybe a week or two after I touched it. I must have had barely a little bit of insulation between the grid heater frame (ground) and the power cables, and it finally broke over and shorted, at least partially. Might be worth checking. Also might be worth checking inside the grid heater to see if part of the element is touching ground anywhere.

 

Also those current indicators, is that the value it showed after the fusible link blew? If so, that just shows current got to a maximum value before the link blew.

 

I put my fluke clamp on ammeter on my grids and measured max draw a while back... But I didn't write it down. Wish I did.

Edited February 22, 20187 yr by kzimmer
Typo

 Alright guys I have a small confession to make.....  so a buddy of mine recently got promoted at his job and part of this job is moving trailers to and from job sites frequently.  The rig that the company gave him to use and drive home and back to work every day is a 2016 Ford power stroke F350. I drove it last night...... ......

H O L Y  S H E E T!!! It is very fast! I wonder if @TFaoro built 2nd gen is as fast as a stock brand new powestroke.... better yet, faster! Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not a ford fanboy at all (except for the good ol’ 7.3). But I’m wondering what it would take the make my truck as “peppy” as this new ford..... at least in the acceleration department. Or is that a pipe dream that’s unattainable. 

 

 

Edit: I am looking at a new(er) 4th gen Cummins that’s bone stock with a heavily built 68rfe.

Edited March 21, 20187 yr by crf450ish

Assuming a variable geometry turbo for very fast spoolup?

Yes, the 2016 F350's have a VNT.  Thankfully they got away from the goofy double sided compressor wheel that acted as a "compound" setup.

To get a 2nd gen to be as quick as a new ford would take about half as much money as buying a new ford.  Compounds, tuner, injectors, and supporting mods.  And transmission if auto.  Manuals will never feel as quick as a newer auto.

To get a new 4th gen to be as quick as a new f350....  We'll let @Me78569 figure that one out! 

Edited March 21, 20187 yr by trreed

11 hours ago, trreed said:

Yes, the 2016 F350's have a VNT.  Thankfully they got away from the goofy double sided compressor wheel that acted as a "compound" setup.

To get a 2nd gen to be as quick as a new ford would take about half as much money as buying a new ford.  Compounds, tuner, injectors, and supporting mods.  And transmission if auto.  Manuals will never feel as quick as a newer auto.

To get a new 4th gen to be as quick as a new f350....  We'll let @Me78569 figure that one out! 

Is he buying a new 4th gen?

16 minutes ago, crf450ish said:

Is he buying a new 4th gen?

 

Yup! Lucky bastid!

 

 

On ‎2‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 9:21 AM, crf450ish said:

Is there a good write up somewhere on how to wire the grid heaters to a toggle switch? Where one could flip them off once their job is done and the truck is started and running. I mean I don’t see the need for them to continue to cycle for minutes after the truck is started. 

 

 

Edit: one of these days when I move to Phoenix,  won’t ever need the grids again haha 

I've been running with the relay grounds switched for half a year now. You will NOT, NOT get a CEL like some say you will. You will get 2 codes which may or may not concern you depending if you live in an emission state. You can always just put the switch to normal and clear the codes and get smogged after a few drive cycles if this concerns you.

Might be differences in ECM programming from 1999 to 2002 like on my truck if I disconnect the grid heater line it does trip the CEL. 

14 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Might be differences in ECM programming from 1999 to 2002 like on my truck if I disconnect the grid heater line it does trip the CEL. 

 

Which line do you disconnect? Relay coil wire, or output wire to the grids? Mine throws a code if you disconnect the coil wire, but not if the grid heater itself is disconnected.

On 3/21/2018 at 5:11 AM, crf450ish said:

 Alright guys I have a small confession to make.....  so a buddy of mine recently got promoted at his job and part of this job is moving trailers to and from job sites frequently.  The rig that the company gave him to use and drive home and back to work every day is a 2016 Ford power stroke F350. I drove it last night...... ......

H O L Y  S H E E T!!! It is very fast! I wonder if @TFaoro built 2nd gen is as fast as a stock brand new powestroke.... better yet, faster! Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not a ford fanboy at all (except for the good ol’ 7.3). But I’m wondering what it would take the make my truck as “peppy” as this new ford..... at least in the acceleration department. Or is that a pipe dream that’s unattainable. 

 

 

Edit: I am looking at a new(er) 4th gen Cummins that’s bone stock with a heavily built 68rfe.

I can tell you that my 6.4 Ford, with just tuning and deletes, has more power than pretty much any Dodge I've driven (and I've driven a LOT of them).

 

I know this is a Dodge forum (hey...I still own two Dodges), but I don't miss my Cummins very much when I'm towing! 

I disconnected mine at the battery.

I had my entire relays out and never threw a light on ge dash. Obviously codes would’ve been there had I scanned but never a light.

I'm going to have to try it on mine here pretty soon and see what happens, planing on just disconnect ground for relays and if it works I'll put it on toggle switch, just wondering if one switch is sufficient for both relays 

2 hours ago, Dynamic said:

I can tell you that my 6.4 Ford, with just tuning and deletes, has more power than pretty much any Dodge I've driven (and I've driven a LOT of them).

 

I know this is a Dodge forum (hey...I still own two Dodges), but I don't miss my Cummins very much when I'm towing! 

 

Blasphemy!!