Developed a new issue. Usually my truck will start with half a revolution. It has started taking 4 sometimes more to start. What’s going on? No codes truck runs good. Good fuel pressure. 

1 hour ago, Marcus2000monster said:

@IBMobile Ahem. 

 I now understand switch operation be done in the following sequence? Key on, start truck, switch to 6 cyl, let warm up, switch back to mpg, drive truck, shut off, switch off. This is the way our discussion has led me to believe it should be operated is this correct? Now I remember that Mike recommends switching to your desired selection before starting truck. Does this mean you should cycle grids then make your selection and then start? 

Three words. TELL US HOW! 

It's been covered before. Here is the thread. You can see what I and some others did. Simple and effective as can be. I have no idea what IBM is up to. Got tired of waiting.

I think @IBMobile and @JAG1 have taken a secret trip without cmm devices.

I've made a grid heater bypass that like the others you can select heaters or no heaters with a switch but the ECM is fooled not to throw code p038 and p0382.  The last two weeks have been cold enough here for me to do full testing before it's I release the results.

16 minutes ago, dripley said:

 a secret trip without cmm devices.

I need one of those....................

8 hours ago, notlimah said:

 

I select whatever setting I’m going to use before I start ifnim going to use 6 or 3 cylinder modes. If I’m going to use mpg and truck is cold (like sat overnight cold) I start with the switch off then select mpg as I get driving. I then leave it in MPG the rest of the day.

Yep Iv gotnit now. Reason it was intermittent is becuase most starts lately I have been high idling and selecting 6 cyl. On these few occasions it started hard It was in mpg mode. 

MPG mode with prevent pre-heat of the grid heaters at key on.

Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

MPG mode with prevent pre-heat of the grid heaters at key on.

Im glad this little issue isnt digging into the pocketbook such as the new alt and new injectors soon. And as far as the topic of this thread the new batterys and deep clean of the cables and wiring seems to have solved my issue...

5 minutes ago, Marcus2000monster said:

And as far as the topic of this thread the new batterys and deep clean of the cables and wiring seems to have solved my issue...

 

Just remember to keep the cable end covered in engine oil they will never rot again. Period.

 

Heck in 2022 my cable will be 20 years old and still going like brand new. 

Edited December 13, 20186 yr by Mopar1973Man

On 12/6/2018 at 8:29 PM, Royal Squire said:

The slow crank can appear so gradually that you may not realize how slow it really is until you repair the starter. 

  

It took me hearing another truck start right next to mine to realize it was cranking slow. Replaced the starter..whoa lol

1 hour ago, Jake said:

  

It took me hearing another truck start right next to mine to realize it was cranking slow. Replaced the starter..whoa lol

Lol it happens slow that’s why. When I get to that point I have heard of a guy that sells start rebuild kits by the name of Larry B. Supposedly his replacement parts will spin your starter faster...

Slow cranking is because of the brushes are worn out. There is a kit that Larry B's sells to rebuild that for cheap.

I confirmed that I have a loss of prime as well. What is the common cuase of this?

On 12/13/2018 at 7:43 AM, Marcus2000monster said:

Im glad this little issue isnt digging into the pocketbook such as the new alt and new injectors soon. And as far as the topic of this thread the new batterys and deep clean of the cables and wiring seems to have solved my issue...

Anybody ever buy just nozzles and reuse old core for injectors, have a local diesel shop set them up?

17 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

Anybody ever buy just nozzles and reuse old core for injectors, have a local diesel shop set them up?

I would just buy all new they’re pretty cheap. I’m about to pull the trigger on new RV275s for 379$. That is not including core but I have cores to send. 

Just now, Marcus2000monster said:

I would just buy all new they’re pretty cheap. I’m about to pull the trigger on new RV275s for 379$. That is not including core but I have cores to send. 

Just wondered, I cleaned all my old Injectors thinking I might save money buying nozzle's like 50hp or what not, ended up buying new RV275's Bosch from local diesel shop, no cores needed. guess I just wasted my time cleaning old cores.

2 hours ago, Marcus2000monster said:

I confirmed that I have a loss of prime as well. What is the common cuase of this?

 

 

1 hour ago, Blueox01 said:

Just wondered, I cleaned all my old Injectors thinking I might save money buying nozzle's like 50hp or what not, ended up buying new RV275's Bosch from local diesel shop, no cores needed. guess I just wasted my time cleaning old cores.

Ideally I would love to have my own pop testing jig. That way you can buy nozzles and set your pop pressure to whatever you desire and then later on recheck your Pop pressure and see how much it settled. Make adjustments yourself without sending it out to anyone. 

I haven't even looked to see how much these things cost, I can't imagine it would be that expensive to make your own. 

Yeah cleaning injectors is a waste of time for the most part, if they need to be cleaned chances are the pop pressure is all gone, so it's pointless cleaning them because they will not run good anyway. And when you sent them in as a core, they go through ultrasonic wash anyway. 

I'd say keep your original ones and one day you may use them as a core for a bigger set. I like my 150hp with v2 tuning. 

31 minutes ago, notlimah said:

 

 

Thanks. This is gonna be fun!

12 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

Ideally I would love to have my own pop testing jig. That way you can buy nozzles and set your pop pressure to whatever you desire and then later on recheck your Pop pressure and see how much it settled. Make adjustments yourself without sending it out to anyone. 

I haven't even looked to see how much these things cost, I can't imagine it would be that expensive to make your own. 

Yeah cleaning injectors is a waste of time for the most part, if they need to be cleaned chances are the pop pressure is all gone, so it's pointless cleaning them because they will not run good anyway. And when you sent them in as a core, they go through ultrasonic wash anyway. 

I'd say keep your original ones and one day you may use them as a core for a bigger set. I like my 150hp with v2 tuning. 

So what kind of HP you think your engine produces? Sorry I'm not up on all the stuff that can be done to these, like v2 tuning, that a Quadzilla? Sorry I seem ignorant.

Edited December 18, 20186 yr by Blueox01

2 minutes ago, Blueox01 said:

So what kind of HP you think your engine produces? Sorry I'm not up on all the stuff that can be done to these, like v2 tuning, that a Quadzilla? Sorry I seem ignorant.

The V2 tuning is the bees knees if your up to it but me personally I’d rather slap a plug and play tune in and go but for economy reasons the guys here have almost persuaded me to get into this tuning. As far as injectors I have a DAP 75s and I’m not impressed with them. I’m soon pulling the trigger on fresh Bosch RV275s.