I pulled an 18 foot trailer with 2 razors and other miscellaneous stuff today on a 80% highway about an hour each way. I was running 70-75 most of the time. Until the hills if they were 6 or 7% grade I would lose speed sometimes down to 60mph. Now if I pushed the go pedal nothing happened untill it kicked down and was screaming and starting to haul a$$. Now my brothers 99 with a built trans, 100 horse injectors and an edge ez. Don't have this issue. He just mashes a little and rolls on.  Is it normal or something a tuner could help? Or am I asking for more than I should be? I ain't saying it was horrible just that it started to lose speed when I didn't expect it to. No loss of power or dead pedal just not picking up speed.  Sorry for the long post.

Edited December 23, 20186 yr by Unreal Summit

16 minutes ago, 2000Ram2500 said:

 

Honestly its probably all of the above. I know the radiator is packed full of junk from the crank breather. Im sure the fan clutch is original. The water pump is starting to seep a tiny bit. Coolant is old pond water and needs to be replaced. The bigger tires and highway gears is killing me too. I know the trans cooler needs to be upgraded too. Sitting in a drivethru on a hot summer day i have to keep it out of drive or the trans will get too hot. I can start at the menu board and after 10 minutes of waiting to get food the trans temp will go from 160 to 210 but its also got no air flow at that point either but you would imagine with it under no real load that the fan would pull enough air to keep it from burning up in a drive thru. 

 

That's not normal. My truck has a very tight converter, I can go from 150 to 230 in Drive at a light. Put it in neural and she barely creeps. 

 

When you build your trans did you replace your converter? I'm wondering if your converter wasn't in lock up and was slipping to much. 

44 minutes ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

That's not normal. My truck has a very tight converter, I can go from 150 to 230 in Drive at a light. Put it in neural and she barely creeps. 

 

When you build your trans did you replace your converter? I'm wondering if your converter wasn't in lock up and was slipping to much. 

 

It was completely rebuilt by a friend at his transmission shop. Billet triple disc converter. Almost everything internal is new. Thats actually was caused the transmission to go out was the torque converter welding itself together. 

Not normal. I run typically a high coolant temp of 220F going all out hauling my 8k pound Jayco. Normal conservative driving I bare break over 212F for coolant and about 170F transmission temp in summer heat.

 

Pyro I've got enough fuel to tag 1,400F but conservative and using Quadzilla on Level 3 I struggle to get to 1,200F.

On ‎12‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 11:49 AM, KATOOM said:

I run an EZ and RV275's.  A "mild" combo compared to what others run but tows like a powerhouse.

I also have the EZ and the RV275's but with a 4:10 and 245/75-16 with a 47RE.  My 5th wheel trailer is 8k and some times I put about another 600 pounds behind that with a 14' boat, motor, gear and trailer.

 

 

  I tow all over: from the flats of Des Moines, IA to Jasper in the Canadian Rockies.  On the flats overdrive is on and locked up with cruise control set at 65mph.  When going up a long 6% grade I down shift to 3ed, the torque convertor locked up with my 'mystery switch' and the cruise control set to 55mph. I still have peddle left to go faster but why push it and abuse what's going to get me there and back.  The fan clutch an a clean air flow over the radiator keeps any overheating problem at bay.

 

This is what my gauges look like after going up a 6% grad after a couple miles and still going up.  The exhaust is at 850°F,  fluid temp exiting transmission is160°F, fuel pressure at 20psi and the boost is 20psi.  The green LED light tells me the convertor is locked with the 'mystery switch'.

 

@IBMobile has an awesome setup with the 245's and 4.10 gears. That is geared so perfect for towing especially with 47RE with 0.68 OD ratio.

IBMOBLE... The fan clutch an a clean air flow over the radiator keeps any overheating problem at bay.

 

your fan...what is "clean air flow" fan

 

thanks

54 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

IBMOBLE... The fan clutch an a clean air flow over the radiator keeps any overheating problem at bay.

 

your fan...what is "clean air flow" fan

 

thanks

 

He means this: "The fan clutch AND a clean air flow over the radiator". 

 

IBMoble, what were the ambient temps and is your pyro post turbo?

Right you are @NIsaacs,clean air flow means no blockage from, say, crankcase breather oil and dirt.

 

The ambient temp was around 58°F at the bottom (4,000') and 54°F at the top (8,000').

 

The pyrometer thermocouple is pre-turbo.   I have a fitting in the head pipe for post turbo temp if I need know.

39 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

 

The pyrometer thermocouple is pre-turbo.   

 

If it were me I think I would question my gauge under those conditions. That seems really low, at least on my truck it would be.

On 12/24/2018 at 1:49 PM, KATOOM said:

I run an EZ and RV275's.  A "mild" combo compared to what others run but tows like a powerhouse.  But you cant add power to your automatic transmission without doing something to help it too...or replace it with a built unit.  All depends on how much power you end up adding and what you're towing.

I run the same combo with one exception I have the ECM programmed, I know some one is going to tell me that won't work right but had no problems with the set up. I think I ran this way 250k before #6 got a hole burned through, but that was a bad injector.

I run a Comp and 50's. Comp set to 2X3. My 5th wheel is about 15k and pulling a 6% grade in 5th at 50 mph i will see 1050 to 1150 degrees egt with 30 lbs of boost. Probe is pre turbo.

Edited December 30, 20186 yr by dripley

The gauge is good.  I've seen it go over1200° with the trans locked in overdrive and my foot to the floor.  With the transmission locked in 3ed and 55mph the exhaust temp will fluctuate with the varying grade of the road, which we have all experienced but will stay under 1000°. . The road grade that picture of the gauges was taken on was south bound US 395 between Bodie RD and Virginia Lakes RD on October 9, 2018.

17 hours ago, IBMobile said:

I also have the EZ and the RV275's but with a 4:10 and 245/75-16 with a 47RE.  My 5th wheel trailer is 8k and some times I put about another 600 pounds behind that with a 14' boat, motor, gear and trailer.

 

 

  I tow all over: from the flats of Des Moines, IA to Jasper in the Canadian Rockies.  On the flats overdrive is on and locked up with cruise control set at 65mph.  When going up a long 6% grade I down shift to 3ed, the torque convertor locked up with my 'mystery switch' and the cruise control set to 55mph. I still have peddle left to go faster but why push it and abuse what's going to get me there and back.  The fan clutch an a clean air flow over the radiator keeps any overheating problem at bay.

 

This is what my gauges look like after going up a 6% grad after a couple miles and still going up.  The exhaust is at 850°F,  fluid temp exiting transmission is160°F, fuel pressure at 20psi and the boost is 20psi.  The green LED light tells me the convertor is locked with the 'mystery switch'.

 

 

So can I ask what you did to get that green light to work? What wires do I have to tap into for that?

 

4 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

So can I ask what you did to get that green light to work? What wires do I have to tap into for that?

I did it with my own version of a 'mystery switch'

 

3 hours ago, IBMobile said:

I did it with my own version of a 'mystery switch'

 

Thanks for the read, since I have a pacbrake with a controller, I'm wondering if that would interfere with this switch?

Do you have a DTT Smart Controler or an ATS transmission controller?  If not then this should work in conjunction with the Pac brake.  They work by grounding the orange/black wire at B11 of the PCM which commands torque convertor lock up.

On 12/29/2018 at 8:02 PM, IBMobile said:

I also have the EZ and the RV275's but with a 4:10 and 245/75-16 with a 47RE.  My 5th wheel trailer is 8k and some times I put about another 600 pounds behind that with a 14' boat, motor, gear and trailer.

 

 

  I tow all over: from the flats of Des Moines, IA to Jasper in the Canadian Rockies.  On the flats overdrive is on and locked up with cruise control set at 65mph.  When going up a long 6% grade I down shift to 3ed, the torque convertor locked up with my 'mystery switch' and the cruise control set to 55mph. I still have peddle left to go faster but why push it and abuse what's going to get me there and back.  The fan clutch an a clean air flow over the radiator keeps any overheating problem at bay.

 

This is what my gauges look like after going up a 6% grad after a couple miles and still going up.  The exhaust is at 850°F,  fluid temp exiting transmission is160°F, fuel pressure at 20psi and the boost is 20psi.  The green LED light tells me the convertor is locked with the 'mystery switch'.

 

 What are your rpms at with this setup?  Say at 55, 60, 65?

On 12/29/2018 at 8:02 PM, IBMobile said:

I also have the EZ and the RV275's but with a 4:10 and 245/75-16 with a 47RE.  My 5th wheel trailer is 8k and some times I put about another 600 pounds behind that with a 14' boat, motor, gear and trailer.

 

 

  I tow all over: from the flats of Des Moines, IA to Jasper in the Canadian Rockies.  On the flats overdrive is on and locked up with cruise control set at 65mph.  When going up a long 6% grade I down shift to 3ed, the torque convertor locked up with my 'mystery switch' and the cruise control set to 55mph. I still have peddle left to go faster but why push it and abuse what's going to get me there and back.  The fan clutch an a clean air flow over the radiator keeps any overheating problem at bay.

 

This is what my gauges look like after going up a 6% grad after a couple miles and still going up.  The exhaust is at 850°F,  fluid temp exiting transmission is160°F, fuel pressure at 20psi and the boost is 20psi.  The green LED light tells me the convertor is locked with the 'mystery switch'.

 

 What are your rpms at with this setup?  Say at 55, 60, 65?

@portlandareae28 

 

Use the Gearing calculator we built.

 

 

 

13 hours ago, IBMobile said:

Do you have a DTT Smart Controler or an ATS transmission controller?  If not then this should work in conjunction with the Pac brake.  They work by grounding the orange/black wire at B11 of the PCM which commands torque convertor lock up.

 

I have a DTT voltage regulator that changes the Governor pressure voltage. However the Pacbrake controller does have me cut and splice into that orange/Black wire on C2 connector. The brown wire from the Pacbarake controller runs to the PCM, the Orange goes back to the transmission side on the orange/Black.

I'm assuming this controls lock up.

4 hours ago, portlandareae28 said:

 What are your rpms at with this setup?  Say at 55, 60, 65?

I had 265/75-16 and changed to 245/75-16 a few years ago when I got a deal on 5 almost new Michelin tires and have not corrected the speedometer so it read about 2mph high. 

With that said, below truck is going down the other side of the 6% Conway grade in torque covertor locked up 3ed gear.

 

 

 

Cruising along in lock-up O/D 

 

A little slower

 

2 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

I'm assuming this controls lock up.

Yes it does. When the APS goes to idle the PCM unlocks the torque convertor so anytime you engage the Pac Brake the controller grounds that orange/black wire commanding lock-up in idle.  The 'mystery switch'  will keep the convertor locked all the time it is on.  If the mystery switch is on and you engage the Pac Brake then the orange/black wire is just grounded in 2 places. 

The DTT voltage regulator will not effect this lock-up. The regulator is used the fool the PCM about line pressure.