I am getting very close to having the time to pull my head and replace the gasket. I am in need of a machine shop to take it to. @Haggar and @Manimalmother both are in my neighborhood, but maybe some others here might be able to recommend a shop to take mine to after I pull it would help.. Any input from any of you would be appreciated'.

I've got no idea Dave.  I would actually like to know myself.  I have a CNC mill large enough to do it but ZERO knowledge on what to do.

It'll take more than a cnc machine. I'm sure you can surface the head with it but there are tricks on how to do it right. I watched mine getting surfaced and it was on some pins that were adjustable and the cutter spun in circles. Once they get it close, they set it at very low depth just to see if it's square, then if it looks good they make one pass at few thousands.  Usually they take as little as possible off, that way you can resurface it more than once.

Then you got to do do a valve job and it's a job on its own. Before you do anything it's best to pressure test and mag it for cracks. Some cracks are ok.  

I would ask them if they ever done Cummins heads and know exactly what they need. Like I asked my guy why didn't he popped all frost plugs out when they cleaned it and I guess they better left alone if there is no problem with them. He said they had problems of them blowing out on few ocasions and that they are stainless steel and really not need messed with. They inspect it after washing it to make sure it's clean. I'm sure there will be different opinions on all of this, just make sure they work on diesel stuff on regular basis. So you're not going to be a guinea pig,  we're used to the chicken thing already. 

Edit 

Forgot to mention, flush your coolant with all that bars leaks stuff you got in there before you pull the head. Drain as much as possible out so nothing rusts with water sitting in there and non of it will go in cylinders when you take the head off. Little bit still does, just wipe it off. And I wouldn't change oil before hand, do the things then once you get it running, take it for a spin and if everything looks good change it then. 

Edited February 15, 20196 yr by Dieselfuture

surface grinder works the best if you access to one. Hardest part is setting up the table to hold the head so you have the entire surface available and don't have to changing mounting halfway through.

 

but when I needed mine done and didn't have access to a shop I use a big rig machine shop. They knew the head casts by number  and what to look for. Showed me the common problem areas. Even took a picture of the head after the first pass and how bad it was. couldn't complain about the 1 day turnaround either or the price. 

Some may say a flap disk would be better, but I prefer a good ol' grinding wheel.

Edited February 18, 20196 yr by trreed

Call or go into a few truck/auto repair shops and find out who they use.  They are only going to use reputable machine shops because the truck/auto repair shop's name is on the line if something goes bad.

 

With the high mile you have you might want to have the head gone through and renewed.

See what they say about inspection and repair.  

Order of work

Clean , pressure test, magnaflux, inspect valves,  valve springs, valves guides. valve seats.

Repair, resurface, replace valve guides and springs if needed,  reface/replace valves and valve seats as needed, new valve guide seals.

1 hour ago, trreed said:

Some may say a flap disk would be better, but I prefer a good ol' grinding wheel.

Shoot I will just get son over and give him the grinder. I am sure he couldn't  F it more than I could with a precision tool. Mine's cordless too.

Ever seen the one with two guys pushing a crate filled with weight back and forth over a cylinder head?  That's viable too!

How many beer cans does it take to obtain the proper weight? I might have to start saving up. My son drinks Crown Royal so maybe the glass could shorten the process.

On 2/14/2019 at 9:39 PM, Dieselfuture said:

Forgot to mention, flush your coolant with all that bars leaks stuff you got in there before you pull the head. Drain as much as possible out so nothing rusts with water sitting in there and non of it will go in cylinders when you take the head off. Little bit still does, just wipe it off.

Did a flush an coolant change a coupe months ago. The overflow bottle had a nice brown mucas in it. Not surprised and it helped but it starting wearing off. Knew it was temporary when it went in. Seeping more now. 

At the dirt track we used to pour black pepper in the radiator to stop leaks.  Worked like a champ!  I got another few months out of my half ton Rams radiator that way!

At demolition derby many years ago just after high school we used Copenhagen in radiator. Worked till distributor cap broke. Don’t know about long term. 

@dripleyYou're just going to have to pull that head off and get the head rebuilt while its off. Then new gasket kit for the upper end of the engine. 

This one?

 )https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Cummins-UPPER-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-SET-for-98-5-2002-5-9L-24V-6BT-4090035/202073074529?epid=1536930335&hash=item2f0c7e6b61:g:q9wAAOSwrn9cZKSF&vxp=mtr&redirect=mobile

 

Hey Dave have you picked a shop to do your head yet?

 

I'm on the fence for getting my head rebuilt and o ringed while I have the time for it.  

Unfortunately I have not. The job is consuming all my time and I just got pretty close to a blank check to make it happen, so next 2 weeks is going to be pretty intense. Pretty much 12 hour non stop days for the next 2 weeks but I dont have to ask permission to spend money just document it. Maybe I can squeeze a new loaded head out of it some how.

3 hours ago, dripley said:

I dont have to ask permission to spend money just document it. Maybe I can squeeze a new loaded head out of it some how.

Clam it as a commercial grade chicken tenderizer.