So it seems this is the summer where all the problems start showing, leaking p.s. pump, passenger axel seal leak,  front brakes, and now tie rod ends. Not enough time in a day to adress it, but will be making time here pretty quick.

 

So I know there is a 4th gen conversion I can do for the t style setup, but is it worth it? I still have 16s on my truck, so I'd have to grind off a knuckle or two for it to fit right?

 

What's the price for one and who would be a reputable vendor for it? 

 

And are there any problems to worry about with the 4th gen setup? Like recalls and such?

 

Other wise I saw Luke's links has all four greasable ones I can install for about 255 bucks.

I'm sure napa has some cheapy garbage, but I've about had it with cheap parts not lasting at all.    (just replaced water pump again 2 years after  already fixing it with a new one, not rebuilt, Napa brand(gates))

 

Still running 265s on my truck too, nothing oversized that would be hard on the front end. I would like to upgrade to 17s 4th gen wheels, but that's someday in the future.

1 hour ago, Alexio Auditore said:

So I know there is a 4th gen conversion I can do for the t style setup, but is it worth it? I still have 16s on my truck, so I'd have to grind off a knuckle or two for it to fit right?

 

What's the price for one and who would be a reputable vendor for it? 

 

And are there any problems to worry about with the 4th gen setup? Like recalls and such?

 

Other wise I saw Luke's links has all four greasable ones I can install for about 255 bucks.

I'm sure napa has some cheapy garbage, but I've about had it with cheap parts not lasting at all.    (just replaced water pump again 2 years after  already fixing it with a new one, not rebuilt, Napa brand(gates))

Worth it...yes.  I  didn't have to grind knuckles on mine and I was running stock 16's at the time.  I got mine from the stealership a while back for $300ish.  I've heard of some saying the knuckles were a different taper but I think that's earlier trucks...mine were the same taper.  There's a chance that your pitman arm hole may be too small.  Mine was and I had to buy a reamer tool.  Removed the pitman arm from the truck and reamed it out to fit right...works perfectly.  The bar itself is a hell of alot beefier than your stock one...definitely a strength upgrade.  You can cancel easily add grease zerts to it if you get one without them.  $255 is a good price for one with zerts already. 

The mopar kit was used by dodge to upgrade the 4th gens that still had the y star. They didn't market it for the 2nd gens because it's not a direct bolt on for all 2nd gens.

I think only 2000-2002 are bolt on but I'm not positive. 

 

I've looked into Luke's links and for me I wouldn't mess with them cost just seems to high to put a bandaid on what I feel is a shity design to start with

 

The mopar kit is 300 on ebay I've seen moog kits cheaper not sure wich would be better.

 

The steering is 08.5 and newer. I think the y steering actually had some recalls on the 3rd gens the kit was the factory fix. I think I may be wrong.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183097555315

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152043484603

 

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292740540924

 

I plan to do moog or mopar kit when I have money. I will not mess with y or Luke's links

 

Can use these instead of reamer.

 

Tie rod ends

 

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/INSSTEER-2PK.html

 

 

Pitman arm

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/DLINSERT.html

Edited July 25, 20195 yr by Evan

personally, i wold just go with a parts house brand (napa mainly) with a warranty, the mopar fails as regularly and is harded to warranty.

 

on a stock height, trimming the draglink maybe needed ( just cut a couple threads off)... but the 16" wheels usually requires shortening the tie rod stud, iircc.

 

now, is it worth it...that all depends on you.  i think the Y Drives better down the highway, the T is much better on the rough.

 

when you order, order for like a 2011, and get the dampner for the same year, that changes also.  

OEM last 350k miles on my truck. As for NAPA they have nearly 50k miles still doing good. Factory style.

What's the difference between Luke's links and napa replacement? Wouldn't Luke's maybe be better quality?

 

Not that I wouldn't use a auto parts brand, I'm just tired of cheap crap that doesnt last.

I used a Lukes link on my '01 track bar and it worked really well.  It has an adjustment if it ever gets loose which I may have taken up once.  Would sure use one again.

Luke's link is a bandaid on the stock joints.  

You have like 500 into it if you put a bandaid on each steering and track bar joint.

 

I too think I'd go with moog.

I couldn't get napa to cross the mopar steering kit. Been meaning to try a different napa.

I used the Moog setup on mine. Had to shorten the drag link ~1", but otherwise bolted right on. I think it was around $250

1 hour ago, Bojon said:

I used the Moog setup on mine. Had to shorten the drag link ~1", but otherwise bolted right on. I think it was around $250

The one I linked on ebay was 280 for moog the mopar kit is 300-380 on ebay. I to wonder if it's any better than the moog stuff.

 

I honestly am not sure what trucks have what taper on knuckles and pitman I do the reamer and inserts are gm 1ton taper and the high misalignment taper for the pitman . These are the correct taper. Chrysler finally decided to go with what works and is proven but it took till 2008.5 for them to do it. I think the jeeps also lost y steering but I dont know what year. I'd have to look into it.

 

The steering is very interesting on dodge trucks as 98 and I think 99 had what was called a heavy duty steering or snow plow steering and again I have never had one in front of me to visually verify. 

 

That's what you find reading forums 500 guys know it all 3 might have actually done. I fall into 500 that haven't done. But am not concerned because the upgraded steering is worth whatever mods are required to bolt it on. It may not on it may not either way I'm capable to do it.

 

Good luck

So Luke's links replace the joints, but what your talking about is just getting something to replace the whole thing? Not just the jointsm

I have this from rockauto

Seems beefy, joints were not greasable I drilled and tapped grease zirks. 

You could probably find it cheaper elsewhere

Yes you cut and grind to install Luke's on wore out factory joints. 

 

Or replace and start fresh with 2008.5 plus facTory upgraded steering 

 

Some guys here have good luck with Luke's. 

Everyone likes what the run and it all drives down the road 

Edited July 26, 20195 yr by Evan

i wouldnt call it a band aid, a conversion yes...

 

the design that the LUKES accomplish is what MY NAPA design is... a metal on metal ball stud design that is greaseable. 

 

only difference is the LUKES makes it adjustable for wear.  

 

how many failures does LUKES have ???  research it, they are very widely used in the jeep world also.

 

short of cost, iwouldnt over look them for a stock truck, if you didnt want the hassle of warranting a setup.

 

MOPAR, i would avoid.

Lukes says its guaranteed for the life of the truck. That sounds like lifetime warranty to me, but is it.......

I installed Luke’s links on all my joints in 2010 and 150,000 miles later they are stil tight. I don’t use 4 wheel drive a lot but do on occasions when needed, mostly winter time. and cutting firewood. and yes they are good quality and I would buy them again, that said. I did have to replace the joint on my track bar a while back, it was unrepairable because I let it go to long. So I just got a new one along with a new poly bushing for the other end. I think someday if the trac bar joint starts to loosen up again and I’m sure it will, I am just going to go with a DOR track bar or something similar just because I don’t want to have to keep messing with it.

 

If you are interested in them I would look up the Luke’s link web site and give them a call directly. I believe they are manufactured right here in Colorado farm country.

 

moog, Napa and others are all in the global network chain of parts so you really don’t know what your going to get  

 

I think the joints are around 60 bucks each or you can get the whole kit for a little over 300 with a new trac bar bushing.  All the joints are the same on all members

 

That's the direction I'm leaning .https://lukeslink.com/products/dodge-ram-lukes-link-tie-rod-end-kit-1994-2002-4-pack

 

I bought a moog t.b. a few years ago through o' rileys, it needs to be replaced again, but its lifetime warranty. I would do the Luke's link for the track bar, but I guess you cant with the moog product. 

 

@Evan, some of the links you shared were third gen correct? 

I only ask because my brother just replaced his whole front end for a pretty penny, and his truck is a third gen, 2003 or 04. Runs 265s like me(his are K.O.2s though) does mostly freeway driving. 

 

Thank you guys this far for all the input. I appreciate it.

The steering kit is 4th gen. Heck I dunno know when 4th gen starts. Steering changed in 2008.5 anything older than that y steering unless a end user or dealer has installed the factory upgraded 2008.5 plus steering 

 

Its bolt on on 3rd gen and kinda bolt on on second gen

I wonder if anyone noticed and bump steer after doing Luke's links.

 

Looks like link on pitman arm is raised or that just my eye.  If it raising it then a Luke's link on the track bar would make it even worse because the drag link is raising and track bar is lowering. 

 

It would probly just be a slight bump when suspension cycles . Must just be my eye it cant raise due to taper on shaft

Edited July 27, 20195 yr by Evan

@01cummins4ever

Are the Luke's links sealed up pretty well.?

Here in north idaho ,they put about as much salt on the road as is contained in the Dead Sea. Its ridiculous. If it isnt, it will wear out pretty quick up here unfortunately 

They are not a sealed joint, but it does have a large rubber washer that fits snug in the assembly to help keep the grease in and contaminates out. 

I just grease it like any other greesable joint by attempting to pump the moisture out and fresh grease in, we have salt, both granular and liquid on our roads too and haven’t  had any issues with rust or corrosion 

 

 

I did alot research on Luke's links. They might be a upgrade built on the stock tie rod ends but I didnt like a tie rod end on the frame side of the track bar.

After lots of debating in my head I took the plunge and torched the tie end off the frame side of the track bar and started over.

 

Truck handles amazing after getting the track bar done. I did miss the mark and had to lower frame end to get rid of bump steer I also have slight contact on the diff cover.  Been meaning to heat that up and mend it in alittle or possibly bump track mount on frame forward a 1/4".

 

I'm not 100percent sure if I'll fab a steering or just do the 2008.5 steering  I will save 100 bucks or so to fab it but I'm short on time and the factory steering will clear better.

I may have to adjust track angle again because the mount on the tie rod to drag link will lower slightly though it may be okay

 

I may go this route

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/YLINK.html

Offset joints would fix that but require more fabrication on my end.

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TREOFFK.html

but the straight tierod makes packaging it tighter. Bent tie rod makes toe adjustments harder.

The mopar steering kit is easily adjustable for toe.

 

I'm not sure on longevity yet on the 7/8 heim joints. Probly have 20k plus on them. They're still tight like new.

 

The bolt on DOR or Carlyle track bar kits are nice but lower the frame end mount to much for a truck at factory ride height. I could be wrong I see the price of them and dont look into them to terribly much

 

Lots of ways to go on these trucks and like mike says they all drive down the road. I'm still running the god awful sloppy factory steering. It still goes down the road. I did replace the joint on pitman arm because it was so sloppy it was scaring me. 

Edited July 28, 20195 yr by Evan