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Well it kind of makes since with the issues you were having that this could be the fix. Does your steering wheel have radio controls? when mine went out due to the fact that it was a sport and had steering wheel controls it cost me $650 for them to replace and reprogram mine. Even for someone like myself that has access to a factory scanner (DBR3) I couldn't fix it with out taking it to the dealer.

Jag I'm sorry to say but the hospitality the baby boomers were raised on is fading away and fast. It's just the new generations not caring about me or you as they just want what they want and aren't concerned about what it takes you or myself to get them the best quality and services just as cheap as they can. Unfortunately it's not looking any better yet, the current generation isn't seeing any improvement. They're rude, snobbish, disrespectful, and just down right asinine. My generation know as the boomerang gen ended in 1985 so the ones born after that are what we as professionals are starting to deal with in our world. It's getting harder and harder to get the respect and appreciation for the services we can offer.

Yeah the CTM or also know as the BCM body control module are crazy. When mine went out the seat belts would lock you in the seat as if in an accident. The radio wouldn't work at times. It caused a lot of odd problems.

The new HX turbo and 275 injectors look like they have improved my mileage by 2-3 mpg on my work run for the week. That will save me about $700 a year in fuel. Plus the added performance for towing. So it's not all about going fast. Next I'd like to do a Smarty.

Yes his stock turbo was the HY35 we replaced it with an HX35 and put in RV275 injectors.

So you are thinking the timer module is bad?

No, I think he got bit.

Yes and that is an expensive bug too. It is good to hear the big improvement with your upgrades though! Always makes a guy feel good when you can improve a truck on all levels with some simple upgrades like that.

Glad you got it fixed and shared experience with how many alt's are actually not right before finding a good one. As far as I know, Mike is one of very few people teaching about checking the Vac. Of all my diesel truck readings, this site has helped me understand so much more than all others.

I think the bug is nibbling on him.....

201,000 and ticking...

I looked at mine today. 278,933 miles. I stopped at a couple of body shops to see what it would cost me to repair the rust on both doors, the cab right behind the right door, and the lower part of the fenders. Two shops told me anywhere from $5000 to $7000!!!! I really don't think it is that bad!

Went out and looked at mine today and she is over 200356 woo hoo..

Could be any measurement you want for ratio it can be gallons, ounces or even liters. 128:1 Ratio. 128 Gallons of fuel to 1 gallon of oil. 128 Ounces of fuel to 1 ounce of oil. 128 Liters of fuel to 1 liter of oil. All are the same.

Rolled over 85,000 today...

306000 runs great just did the tappet gasket.

What needs to be done to a truck with automatic transmission to take advantage of an exhaust brake? Not looking for a high dollar solution. But rather minimum suggested mods.

Yep, stalling out while backing up with a trailer and overheating them is what kills more transmissions than any other reason alone.

Not to hijack your thread, but I do not have a timeline on when I want it in. I'm trying to piece it together part by part until I have all I need. Then hopefully get it done over a weekend... I would definitely like to be the first to do that writeup on here!

I'll be doing the he351ve, soon, too!

Thanks for the help gentlemen! I've made my decision and I guess I'll just have to keep a stash under my mattress just in case it decides to go out on me. I know the gelling problem didn't extend the life of my vp, but it did have some fuel going into it... a little coming out of the line. As for cranking it I doubt it turned over more than 1000 times without full pressure?? That shouldn't have hurt much or anything. We hear about people running down the road with out any pressure every day! The added power is great! Far exceeded my expectations with the new injectors. I have the wire tap on a quick disconnect spade connector just in case someone else has to drive my truck. Now I just need to get my he351cw bolted up and see if I can get the EGTs to drop down a bit! (BTW this is the best forum on the net!!!)

I agree with Mike and although I may never tap the pump, I do understand that there are too many variables to cause these VP44 pumps to fail and the previous listed items he mentioned are what I would consider far more detrimental to the pump itself than a wire tap. I wouldn't be afraid to tap the pump but my end goals are to gain more power and longevity than to do a wire tap. I am not looking for that much power, I already have a race truck (one in my avatar) it pulls the wheels off the ground lol and when I am not driving it, I got back to "Grandpa" mode and just drive my rig and enjoy it. Just my $.02. Trust what Mike says, everything he has told me so far has been spot on!

In all my years of helping people I never heard of any reports of a VP44 fail because of a wire tap. It's always something else that kills the pump like bad alternator, dirty fuel, poor fuel filter, low fuel pressure, too much injector cleaners (fuel additive), etc. But always love how a rebuilder uses the tapped wire thing to deny warranty claims but attempt to sell pumps for high performance and know that the end user is going to tap the wire.

I bought a slightly used "actually installed tested and removed on another of their vendors rigs" and it was a tapped HRVP44 that was sent back into them and checked over for a checkup ect and they sent it out the door with a one year warranty even with the wire tapped when I got it. I would tap it and not worry about it.

DAP sells pumps with a wire tap warranty now. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/sovp44-wiretap.htm

I just want to get everyone's thoughts on tapping my injection pump. From what I've read, if the pump is going to fail from being re-manufactured improperly it will fail within the first month or couple thousand miles. I've had my industrial injection on since Christmas and have had Zero issues. I have a stealth plate, but they can still see the pricked wire when it's torn apart, and they can see the top bolts have been removed ( Probably voiding the warranty ). I'll probably be putting my he351cw on in the beginning of June and I think the comp, 100's and turbo would match really well. Let me know what your thoughts are! Thanks in advance

I've used PenzOil, Quaker State, Yama-Lube, Stihl Oil, Super Tech, etc. Not really. As long as its TCW3 you should be fine (Ashless).

As stated by ASTM testing labs in their report...

Toyota is looking at a Cummins engine also.......

I have 305,000 on my truck. Still start most the time and even sometime runs.

I joined the club this morning on my way to work! Looking forward to the next 200k.

At 236K and change my VP died. I guess that's not to bad for the original stock pump. Got one ordered from Blue Chip and supposed to be in on Thursday.

You got any more pics of the rest of this setup? I'm intrigued! Are you running it to an adjustable regulator, or is this just how you got it hooked up right now?