Leaderboard

Well.. I took it apart last night and following the instructions to clean the contacts with an eraser plus apply a little dielectric grease to the prongs.. it worked beautifully today with the softest touch! See how long it lasts :-)

If you are going to get another 24v in the future, edge comp all the way. But, you'd have to upgrade your driveline too. Automatic or manual? A box/programmer really wakes up the truck and makes it much better for any type of driving.

Actually there's a red pin now less than an hour away! I'll reach out to that guy! Thanks Nick!!

Problem solved. Well kind of... #3 injector line and crossover tube is rusted together and the crossover tube nut is loose. I managed to tighten the cross over tube nut and problem is gone. So to resolve this permanently would require cutting the high pressure tube near the nut and removing the entire unit. Then replacing the crossover tube, nuts and high pressure line for #3. I would like to suggest to the owner that all the injectors still get tested and at that time we can deal with all the rusted lines and tubes (if any more exist). I got to admit it runs very well for stock 05 Dodge.

http://www.deutschconnector.com/products/deutsch_connectors/deutsch_dt_series_connectors/

Tabbing the pin is the common practice..

The world has changed around me.

I did it on a 12 valve I had, and I thought it was pretty easy, a bit time consuming. This is also a good time to pull radiator and power wash it and everything else. New thermostat and coolant flush. Plus do crank case vent mod that Mike came up with. All of this for less than $20 and some time. Well except for coolant and thermostat.

Edge EZ is a 65HP box. Not really adjustable 60, 63 or 65 HP. It a fuel and timing box without defuel modes. Edge Comp is a 40-120 HP box with defuel modes to lighten the launching. So you could run 1x3 which is 40 HP max extra fuel and defuels 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI and then released. This is a feature the EZ doesn't have at all. If you leave the Edge Comp untapped its defaults to 40 HP level. So edge Comp is still safer for the transmission than the Edge EZ. MAIN 40 HP 60 HP 80 HP 100 HP 120 HP SUBLEVEL 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 67% of sotck fuel till 10 PSI of boost Some extra fuel at low boost Full fuel at 0 PSI of boost

I take pictures of everything :-) Do I just post it in a thread or is there an article place to do it?

Glad to hear it!! Why wouldn't a stock 05 run well? 325/610 isn't a shabby motor.

I always used to ski steven's pass up there. Huge shock that only one resort in colorado does night skiing.

Regardless of temperature Cummins considers more than 3-5 minutes of idling to be excessive. I wouldn't ever let it idle until warm, just enough to sure proper lubrication and drive easy (load and rpms) until it gets warm. Oil typically takes a while longer than coolant to warm up. If my thermostat opens after about 12 miles it may take 15-20 miles to see oil pressure stabilize with warm oil. Windchill is an apparent effect on living tissue. The only thing wind will do to a cast iron block is make it cool down quicker and slow down how quick it warms up. A block at -30° will start the same on a 0 mph wind day as a 50 mph wind day. All your truck cares about is ambient temperature. Since a couple of folks in this discussion also have 3rd gens they use 66°F in the intake manifold and run the post-heat cycle for 2 minutes or until 18 mph is reached. The post-heat cycle varies based on ambient temperature. The IAT can get well above 100° after startup but the post-heat still runs its programmed 2 min or 18 mph cycle.

Strange, I go back home ( international Falls Mn) about every year around christmas time. If I plug it in for 2 or 3 hours it will jump to life regardless of how cold it is, could be -30 / -40 pre wind chill pretty easy. However my truck at -30 driving struggles to build more than 140-160 coolant with the front blocked. trans temp never hits 60*f

These are days we are talking -50 and colder wind chill days. Sub zero and 30 mph winds suck any heat away as fast as its generated then add road speed on top of that. We have outlets in our parking lot at work and I have had my cummins snort buck and fart and be extremely angry @ start up in extreme sub zero temps even being plugged in for 10-11 hours. Anyone on the northern plains will tell you to stick the science and tails of wind chill not having any effect on iron. As a Diesel tech for over 20 years and a lot of it as a field tech can attest to the fact that the same engine at the same sub zero temps parked in the wind versus out of the wind act totally different. Can't explain it but all who deal with this know well that wind does definitely have an effect on iron, can't explain it but it does.

Likewise, anytime I expect to drive my truck, I plug in the block heater either the night before or at least 4 or 5 hours prior to starting the engine. Usually this is enough to bring what the IAT sensor sees to not engage the grid heaters. If it is really cold (low 20's and lower) I let it idle for a few minutes with the exhaust brake engaged to get the coolant temperature up. I also install the winter front louvers on the grill to restrict as much cold air across the radiator and engine compartment. Note: If you use your block heater and have a cat, make sure you either blow the horn a few times or check under the hood to make sure it is not all warm and cozey in the engine compartment. Failure to do so can lead to a big mess under the hood and started the day off really bad.

We'll see how often I end up using the high idle once I actually get it enabled in the ECM. (You don't have a Smarty by any chance, do you?) I just meant it's not a big rush. I don't think we hit 32 out here once last winter. Hopefully this year though! We need that snow pack!

There is a bushing in the tail shaft of the transfer case. This is pretty important, and is often overlooked. It allows the yoke to "rattle" (for lack of a better term) on the output shaft. I have recently replaced it on my truck and one of the suburbasauruses. Good luck! Hag

Finally got the write-up posted on CF. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/1841457-new-high-idle-switch-available.html#post21191873 Let me know if I should change anything or add anything. I do have pictures of my ScanGauge showing the IAT and ECT reading as designed, but I figured the post was getting long. I can throw em up if somebody asks. Nick, I think your videos are the way to go over typing everything out and getting the stupid pictures to all match up!

Got my switch installed. I'm about to jump over to CF to post a quick install write up, I just wanted to share that the switch does in fact fit in the overhead console. As already discussed, the wire is too short, so I'm not functional with the switch in place. I have some wire that an electrician gave me, it's basically cat5, but stranded. It should work to extend the included wire, but I'd rather have it done clean if possible. Nick, is there any chance I could get a longer wire? Or, if possible, a female to male extender wire to plug in under my pedals and run up the A pillar and over? I don't mind paying or waiting, it doesn't really get cold enough here to need the high idle; I'm mostly in it for the MPG. (The switch next to the high idle is my EZ) Would this be considered powertrain, or non-powertrain? I'm thinking non?

It won't take much to throw a driveshaft out of balance.