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Rumor on Facebook in my area is 15+ stolen diesel trucks were found in a chop shop..... maybe something will come of that.

Hi all, Just wanted to share my first experience towing with my cummins Being in the military, and not owning a travel trailer or anything, I don't get the chance to work my truck very often. I don't know exactly how much weight it was, and there was no scale nearby, but I know the tractor is between 3500-4000 lbs, not sure on the trailer. You more experienced guys would probably know better based on the pic. Anyway the tractor is a 47hp, 3 cyl, gas, Ford 3400 from the 60's i think? My Dad is gradually working his way into a small scale farming operation and was able to borrow the tractor from a friend to see how it worked to run his 6' brush hog. Our whole trip wasn't more than 20 miles, and was mostly in 3rd gear at about 30mph or so, as we were on very winding, hilly, back roads. I really had fun getting to test the truck out a bit. It seemed to handle the weight very well. Almost didn't know it was there. I did turn the comp down for the trip. Started at 2x3 but quickly bumped up to 3x3. I was able to build lots of boost on the really steep hills, over 20 psi easily. I only found one possible problem. Either there is something wrong with my brake controller, or the trailers brakes are just worn. We could hear the brakes activating, but they didn't help much. I couldn't lock them up at all. Fortunately my brakes are fine and this wasn't that much weight. I also discovered just how nice it is to be able to use 4L in a "2L" mode because of my cable actuator for the CAD. That is awesome for backing the trailer. It let me move much more slowly and smoothly. The anti stall feature in these truck is really great too, it pushed and pulled that trailer up the driveways just fine all by itself.

I worked 11 hours today. I emailed Eric last night and thought it was strange that all I got in response was "call us about this" until I actually did. He wanted to interview me about my real needs. I was prepared to be hit up for a full FASS system, full gauges, VP44, lines, sump kit/draw straw or something, all sorts of things. I was not going to be surprised to be up to $2500 in parts. Nope. Eric talked to me about current set up, whether I saw myself increasing hp substantially, frequency of usage, towing, type of towing, amount of towing, etc. THEN he recommended a more sane and reasonable setup that would get my truck up and running, useful and working right as a work truck (like it is and I want) from now on. Under $1600 for everything that I need to have a dependable, solid working truck. He emailed the list of all the parts/kits that we talked about so we would both know what I needed when I ordered. That is service! Now I just have to play with the budget, get the cash and place the final order. Solid guy. I haven't done business with DAP, so I can't speak to that, but if they are anything like Eric, then they are a great shop. More to come.

Post filter, and I am also not sure there is even a pre-filter option on this motor.

Yep, it must be tractor splitting season. It it took me about 4 hours to get mine split and transmission sitting on bench, I think Kubota dealer gets a little over 6 hours for a complete R & R on the hydrostatic trans.

i now know why every ones loves rowing gears. my 6.7 pulls SO much harder then my 04. now my 04 is no slouch. it'll embarrass some popular sports cars. but this 6.7 w/G56 is a beast. the turbo spools later then i'd like but it amazing to hook up the flat bed and tractor and chug up a hill. awesome. awesome awesome.

Ooo boy, that's a tough pill to swallow! Sorry man! Hope they have good news for ya!

I agree with keeping the factory canister for the purpose of the factory fuel heater. It can be valuable if you are in sub zero temps in the winter

You can run other filters with the Fuel Boss, but they need to be after the pump, not before. So, in order to mount to the frame, you would need to run fuel to the pump, back to the frame rail, and up to the engine again. Not necessarily that big of a deal, just something to be aware of and plan for. That is unless you can find a way to mount something like the GDP or VPMAX universal filters in the engine bay. Also, i would keep your factory canister and run a baldwin PF7977 in it. You don't want to loose your water separation and it never hurts to have extra filtration. The Baldwin pf7977 is a really good choice by itself. It is better than factory.

No not really, you can remove the PCM. The body control module, abs, cluster gauge, ecm, still can talk to each other. There's just one problem: Bus Bias And Termination. The voltage network used by the CCD data bus to transmit messages requires both bias and termination. At least one electronic control module on the data bus must provide a voltage source for the CCD data bus network known as bus bias, and there must be at least one bus termination point for the data bus circuit to be complete. Now I'm not sure if the PCM is supplying the voltage source or the cluster gauge? The messages on the CCD-bus are flowing in a series a bytes. One message is typically 3-6 bytes long. They are repeating the same thing over and over barely changing the bytes. Essentially the communication is done via sending sequence of numbers between 0 and 255. Every message starts with an identification byte (ID byte). The closer it is to the zero the more important information it holds. In case of message collision (two modules are trying to say something at the same time) the message with the lower ID value wins the bus.

In stock programming it will turn on when the IAT and ECT are low. EFI could possibly disable that feature.

Yeah but I am getting a smoking good deal on a twin turbo cummins for my Kubota repower project..............Don't screw it up dammit!

I got the power steering flushed and the filter installed. I found it one of the simpler things to service and add to the truck. O'Reillys has the filter in a box with their in house label on it but inside is a Magnaflow inline transmission filter. The hose clamps that come with it are to small, you need #8 size. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MPPB/991FLT2/N2242.oap?ck=Search_power+steering+filter+universal_N2242_5005221_2902&keyword=power+steering+filter+universal&pt=N2242&ppt=C0023 If added an article in the 24 Valve 2ed Generation, Axles, Suspension & Brakes about this.

What a small world, was trying to help out a member on a Kubota forum and here he sends me a message and it was our own 01cummins4ever who has his own Kubota split into pieces as well only he is into the powertrain end of his. He has the same tractor I do not the one in this thread but the smaller B2150.

I am pretty sure right next to the line going to the turbo is an unused port on the filter adapter. You can put a mechanical gauge right there. HTH Hag

Isn't there are port on top of the Oil filter housing that you could tap into to get oil pressure?

Still need to test with mechanical gauge because the sensor could be bad or the ECM could be misreporting the value.

I can read the oil pressure with my scan tool. I'm not sure how accurate it is but at 29 PSI the cluster gauge shows 40 PSI. EDIT: Perhaps this will be useful to some of you with the odb2 scanner. PID 2541 Oil Pressure Oil Press Pressure 0 100 1 Y OilPres DCx Sensors n none I got that info from: http://www.cherokeesrt8.com/forums/131-wk1-tuning-cmr-dyno-datalogging-gauges/19781-i-finally-got-around-listing-pids-dashhawk-can-see.html

They are a mechanically driven gerotor pump which are known for longevity (unless you have a freak incident). It's not something I would worry about but if you do want to change it out they are easy to install once you pull the timing cover.

I've also got a business venture getting started in New Meadows, Idaho soon. The land owner is planning on building a 4,800 foot shop soon. Half of this will be tack room for his live stock. The other half is going to be a two bay shop. The original idea was to build it for maintaining his truck fleet for his business. The offer opened up a bit more now and might have my own shop to do work on the side. I'm not holding my breath right now. The building still not even built nor started as of yet. Plans and ideas are on the books though...

I'd say 9 mpg towing at 70 mph is completely normal. I'd ditch the edge and get EFI live and report back. There is no reason to not have good tuning on your truck. The Edge is far from that.