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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/15/2017 in all areas

  1. The rod that comes out of the back is what makes the difference for all the different applications.... The rebuild places just rebuild them, they don't know what rod or length you are supposed to have. GM crimped theirs on. All of my pictures are how to "uncrimp it" then put it back so it is the right length. Don't let this fool you. It is amazingly simple inside.... You will kick yourself. The only "worry" is that the accumulator has pressure. Just apply the brakes on the truck 5 or 6 times before you start pulling the unit out. a big C clamp is how you remove the accumulator. Picture of removing the accumulator Here are the two housings coming apart. (previous picture showed you the silver pistons out of the housings) and a picture of the output rod and spring. and a cross section of the assembly, just for giggles.
  2. WTF did you multiply?
  3. Batteries act as a filter test from the alternator itself.
  4. Drip, The booster rebuilds easily. I have some pictures from my rebuild (it was for a GM application so a bit different on pedal end.) I think i got all my parts from these guys and talked with them on the phone. They are in Asheville . http://piratejack.net/installation-videos-helpful-resources/ The two cup seals on the left (in the picture) are what is allowing power steering fluid to leak into the cab..... Hag
  5. 1 point
    If you unplug the map sensor the truck will struggle to hit 50 mph. nearly all of the fueling tables use boost as an axis for the map.
  6. Here's my "other place".... in Sterling, CO. Not much here besides industrial parks and farm fields, but they do have a Walmart. Biggest town in NE Colorado.
  7. 1 point
    Oem fits better and lasts longer for parts like that, in my experience. Even the protective coatings against rust and corrosion.
  8. Infinite performance, Haley Speed Inc., F1 Fuel Injection are the ones I would consider for injectors. 12v & vp injectors are "cheap" due to being a mechanical poppet injector. Do not let advertising or price fool you. I have yet to see a set of ddp injectors come close to anything more affordably priced in performance. Industrial Injection is another that charges an extreme premium for a less than mediocre product. I use a lockup switch daily on my stock 12v. Stupid sloppy stock 47re converter. The edge is reading the sensor value across the bus. Likely why the resolution was worse. You said you have a 1.32 on there now correct? That is where some of your boost went.
  9. I also added a filter in return line to mine.
  10. This is the first leak I have had on mine also. The power steering and bake system is all OEM also. After 415k I cant complain. Mine is in need of a flush also. Thinking of replacing the power steering pump while I am in there, but I sure hate replacing a part that aint broke yet. I can feel @IBMobile staring at me right now.
  11. Wts is also a communication between ecm and whatever else @Me78569 can explain better. If it doesn't come on then it's not getting booted and probably can cause all kinds of issues. When it's warm greeds will still cycle just won't stay on very long. A new alternator from part store can be junk, it can still charge but ac current will not pass. Most of time it's diodes or also brushes and Armature can cause ac noise. I rebuilt my alternator for that reason because ones from part store 90% of time are junk right of the shelf or in a short time will be junk. You can by a factory alternator from a site like moparpartsdiscount or something like that.
  12. I paid around 15k for mine with 120k on it and few aftermarket parts and thought it was a decent deal. I bet I spent another 6-7k on it in passed 6 years witch is not bad at all. And every time I check prices on similar trucks I'm still able to sell it for what I paid for it, maybe more. Not a lot of vehicles you can do that with.
  13. The same with me. I got mine from my brother who did good maintaining it. I bugged him for years to sell it to me. L8tr D
  14. 1 point
    Ummm... I see 4 aftermarket companies... SKP, Hayden, Four Seasons, GPD...
  15. 17-22 psi idling, 25-35 psi @ 2500 RPM no load is the spec. I got mine at 35-40psi because it gives me the warm and fuzzies.
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