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Unpredictable is an automatic locker. You are going up a steep switchback road on the side of a mountain in a truck with nothing in the bed in a light drizzle, start to slip a little... next thing you feel a clunk, and then you are sideways. Luckily you were only doing 15-20 mph. I'll take a limited slip before an automatic locker... road manners are much more predictable, everything being relative. But, I think the torsen style may be the best of both worlds. The guy in the video said that if you apply the brake a little it will give enough torque to lock up the torsen and away you go. In the name of selectable lockers.... I had my hands on a 6x6 Pinzgauer. Had all hydraulic controls for the lockers and transfer case. Thing would walk through anything, and portals meant it would clear most anything too.

Being that the wife's truck had over 185,000 miles on it, I decided to replace the crossover tubes out of an abundance of caution. When a friend and I installed the F1 Mach 1.6 injectors, we decided to reuse the crossover tubes being that my engine had under 50,000 miles and they have worked fine as best I can tell. If you are doing the work yourself, going back inside the engine to replace the crossover tubes is just the cost of the tubes. When you are paying a shop to do it, I want it all to go back together RIGHT the first time and minimize any chances of problems.

Although the common rail runs higher pressures, I don't think that is as much of a factor as is the contamination the edge filters must deal with. I think the key is the phrase "common rail", which means any metal from the high pressure pump and / or other components in the path of getting to the common rail will be fed directly into every injector. This means that the edge filters could clog or be damaged easily. From what I have read, the VP44 injection pumps hardly ever fail in the manner of sending metal debris downstream. This could account for the edge filters staying very clean. I checked the 2002 repair manual for installing injectors and there is no mention of replacing crossover tubes. When I replaced my OEM injectors at 303,000 miles, I just inspected the tubes and re-used them. - John

I have experienced the front axle load of the Cummins more that once. It will instantly sink to the axle/frame given the chance. Last time I was on scales, F~4300, R~3000. Narrow tires do indeed bite harder.

That’s only big on size, not on flow. That’s pretty dismal on flow, as most BHAF’s are. An HX35 can flow nearly 600 CFM, and a HE351(5.9 and 6.7 OEM turbo) is over 800CFM.

Agree. If I had a factory limited slip, I would not be replacing it. I think I would just add a front TruTrac in that case. I have open diff's front and rear and they REALLY suck in mud or even damp grass. Having a front limited slip differential that does not affect steering dramatically is a BIG plus for me as I am on logging roads from time to time. I kinda had my doubts and did an eye roll on the 20,000 mile thing too.

So running a full locker front and rear myself. I would highly suggest putting a free spin kit on the front if you go with a mechanical locker. Looking back I should have put in a air locker in the front.

Actually the voltage regulator really has changed a lot since 1960's. The old school steel can had the temperature compensation. Just it used the under hood temperature as a battery control. Hence why most where mount in such away to feel the radiator temp from the fan or wind pushing through. The only thing that improved was the single steel can was moved into the PCM and then added a temp sensor at the battery. This in absolutely no different that my inverter here at home with a single battery temp sensor. But I've got 8 batteries and 1,000 pounds in those 8 batteries. Just one sensor for one battery out of 7 batteries. Still the same old 2 wire field same alternators just bigger current same 12V operation. Even the wire colors are the same from the 70's. Blue for the + side and green for the variable ground. Some of the vans had green for the ground side but red for the hot side of the alternator.

The '03-'07 5.9 Fleetguard filter is 7 micron, the '00-'02 is 10. However, the Napa/Wix is 7 micron for the '00-'02, that's what I use. I did order the tubes with my new RV's, just because...still waiting on the backordered injectors. This thread/issue was fixed with the new tubes. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/9721-odd-injector-misfire/

430,000 rounds on original cross overs. Now I see that DAP is recommending new tubes because it's a 98 truck. I'll get new ones if I have to, but if I can reuse my old tubes that's $150 still in the pocket. Thoughts? Mark

BEWARE... Tire conversation. That's because of the wider tires. That spreads your axles weight out over larger square inch surface. Like walking on a weak roof you throw down a sheet of plywood to spread your weight over the trusses. This making it easy for the truck to spin on grass or slick, or climbing... I will say "Wider Tires" will make the tires float on top of mud better because of the spreading of weight. But for traction narrower tires bite better for offroading. To this day I've climbed some steep hills, and did well. Another way to look at it... You go outside into the snow and steep in the deep snow you sink right in. Now throw on snow shoes you can walk on top of the snow. Just spreading the weight out so the soft ground doesn't depress... Typical axle weights...(Roughly) Front - 4,3xx to 4,5xx Rear - 2,8xx to 3,2xx Another tidbit I'm also open diff both front and rear. Rare to slip a tire with what I've played in the tire game between 215, 235, 245, and 265s. I would say the 265 were horrid for offroading tend to spin too much. As for the 235's those were awesome bites right in and held good for even dragging full size truck up the bank. 245's not a lot of experience offroad as of yet but soon. Then on my lil 96 Dodge I've got the 215's and those climb really good! Rare to even spin or get stuck. Another secret. I've shown this to several people and it works. If you trying to cross old crusty snow. Wide tires are best but even narrow tires can do it with a twist. If I back over the snow I'm dragging the most weight across the soft snow or mud. When you drive forward the weight of the Cummins will drive the front axle down and sink it. Again for soft ground (mud) the wider tires are best. Snow on the highway, narrow is best for highway traction. Again small patch of tire will push down to the asphalt easier to bite. I'm considering going up with a nicer set of wheels but I know it going to require a wider face tire like 265 to 285. But I'm going to keep my 30 inch size. Aluminum wheels... I'm about 200 feet above the road below... 4 wheel drive and climb the face. (235's)

Loosened up the fuel lines to the last thread or two. Threaded a valve cover bolts into the top of the injector. Then I used a pickle fork to pop them out. The crossover tubes shift back towards the fuel line when you pull the injector out. Then I would always put a little bit of grease on the side of the injector where the crossover tube would connect to it. Then tighten down the injector and fuel line. Did it about three times that way. And one time on my brother-in-law’s truck. That cross over tube might’ve been bad from the factory. Who knows.

Anything can wear out, I get that. Just seems i here folks swapping the tubes on injector changes a fair amount. Mine look like the did the firs time I took. Bought a couple back then thinking they needed changed. Still have them in boxes they came in. I am curious of how you changed injectors without pulling the tubes. I agree they are important. As hard as the steel is in them they ought to out last any steel they touch. I know mine have. I remeber someone describing the filtration requirements of the CR engines made the VP truck filters look like colanders. They are definutely a different animal.

Mine cross over tubes are original with 510k miles on them, 4 injector changes, a couple of removals for other purposes and I would not hesitate to use then again. The steel they are made from is the hardest steel you will find in the engine. My first injector change I chucked them in a drill and spun them and used a scotch brite pad to clean and polish the mating surfaces. The chuck did not leave a mark on them. I have no idea why every one seems to think they need changed regularly. If you want to fine and cant fault the idea. But I dont see the need. My personal opinion guys but 0 issues out my oe tubes. The orings are a different story. I would use an old one in a pinch knowing It most likely will need to changed later. New one are much better. I should add that I have heard the earlier year 24v tubes were not as resilient as the later year but I have no experience with them.

It should look nice and clean... Yeah there is nothing on the alternator charge stud because the W-T ground wire mod has been done. This can become a 140A protected stud now too.

sams club, was the best price for them for me. 18$ less per battery then walmarts, just had to replace 4, have 2 to go. i hope they make the winter. fingers crossed.

This too bad as we need a good ECM/ PCM repair company. I always wonder when co.'s head downward if the younger generation has something to do with it?