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dieselautopower
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/23/2021 in all areas
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ECM # 4
2 pointsAs for used ECM/PCM I went through an online salvage yard (can't remember which one). Searched the page until I found a pickup identical to mine (same year, eng, tranny, everything) and bought both ECM and PCM. I figured if they didn't work I could get them re-flashed. Long story short I hooked both computers up and they worked perfect. I'm now running with those two and keep the OEM units as my backup. I think the trick is to find an absolutely identical match to your rig.2 points
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Odd brake wear
2 pointsFirst remove the brake calipers, get a caliper repair/seal kit, take the caliper pistons out, clean the pistons and bores and reseal. While the caliper are off the truck check all the sliding parts for wear rust and binding; clean or replace pins bolts and pin boots *** needed. All these parts are inexpensive and can be obtained through Rock Auto. Are you bedding in your new brake pads? Swap the front tires left to right, fight to left and see if the steering wheel goes to the right.2 points
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Map sensor options 40+ psi
2 pointsI think there is some lag with a boost gauges (mechanical has line to pressurize, electrical has processing) Instead of relying on the MAP sensor and Dodge ECM....use the Quadzilla. Hook your pressure sensor (fuel) up to your intake side to get boost #'s that are more accurate and is scaled to 100psi. Then you can datalog with Boost pressure #'s under the FUEL heading. Then use a mechanical fuel pressure gauge for fuel.2 points
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Brake Fluid Change
1 pointVery good write-up on not just the what and how, but also WHY! Just a note, the pistons and seals are now available on Rock Auto for about $5-6 apiece (2021).1 point
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Odd brake wear
1 pointI dont think so. Have not hit anything unless it can just bend itself. Going to have to pull it apart again and put a kit in the calipers. I will have a better look at then, I rebuilt one of them a few years back. It was a fairly easy job. Took a scrubby to the pistons and freed them up. Just dont remeber which side I did. I put a rebuilt caliper on the other side a year or 2 earlier. The brakes were and are still working ok but I am going to have go thru them both, something is not right. Pretty much what I am thinking. I will let yall know what I find.1 point
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Custom Tuning for the Quad
1 pointBought new in 1998, been tweaking ever since. Engine rebuilt for it's 20th birthday in November 2019. Dyno runs with a Smarty/TST stack June 2020, with 596hp/1150tq. Been lurking and have multiple pages of notes from this site and others, have done several tunes. I'm an ex-sportscar racer and we would do practice runs the 1st day, email every run to our Motec guy, and would re-load before every session to dial in the cars. Decided that was what I was after for my truck, and found TJ at OneBadVP44Performance. Flew him in, spent 2 hours on the dyno. His initial tune from my build sheet was 12 hp off what got for max. 683hp/1311tq. The way I saw this was I've spent hella money on this truck- why not have a professional dial it in? Certainly nothing against anyone who is doing it all themselves- but along the way I realized someone else could do this safer and better.1 point
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ECM # 4
1 pointNot cheap but worth it to me. I believe it was around $1500 bucks for both. You can get a refurbished pair for close to the same but they've had some major invasive surgery done to them. Mine came from a fully functioning rig with 50K fewer miles on it. My wife and I travel a lot and occasionally head down to Mexico. Having both computers tucked under the back seat is just good insurance.1 point
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Torque Converter Acting Weird
1 pointW-T been drillin me lately and I know he would agree. Electrons are flowing from the negative to the positive. Negative is loosing and positive is gaining electrons. Kinda like this website is positive cause everyone leaves the dealership (negative) and flows to Mopar1973Man (positive). BTW hdpwimonkey, that is a nice truck you have and glad you found the problem.1 point
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Torque Converter Acting Weird
1 pointProblem solved! Believe it or not, 2 new batteries fixed it. I stopped at the Interstate store on my way home from work and had them load test the batteries. The passenger side was not able hold a load. The drivers side didnt fail but based on others comments on the forum I replaced them both. I had not figured that just replacing the batteries would have an effect but low and behold after installing the batteries I took it for a test drive yesterday and no more TC issues I have not checked the AC noise after replacing the batteries, wonder if that issue is fixed too...1 point
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Spring cleaning! Tons of parts on sale!
Here is the link: https://www.dieselautopower.com/dap-deals Autometer, Titan, Airdog, BD, Sinsiter, Pypes, AFE, TS Performance, Dorman, and many other brands.1 point
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Odd brake wear
1 point@IBMobile is absolutely correct. When the pistons are out and the piston seal are removed the piston should just naturally drop to the bottom on the bore without being pushed. This means there is caked up brake fluid on the pistons. I've use light grade wet dry sandpaper and take off the thousandths of harden brake fluid and check again. Some just opt for replacing the caliper I would for time issues and being fast but it is cheaper to rebuild yourself but if there is rust damage its time to replace them. Here is the drop fit without the seal. You shouldn't have to push it down either. @dripley more than likely why the tapered brake pad was one piston is sticking nad the other was pushing still so the pad would rock over on the weak side while it wore the taper in the brake pad. This goes back to the drop test to verify the piston and bore clearance.1 point
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Block heater usage question
1 pointI’m in northwest Colorado, and -30 in the winter isn’t uncommon in this area. I leave mine plugged in all night if I’m going to use it the next day. I’ve done this with this truck since 2008 and the first gen I had before for a couple of years. I’ve never had to replace the block heater either. There are outlets in the parking lot where I work for block heaters so I will use one cord for the block heater and another for the small space heater in the cab. It’s pretty nice to not have to scrap snow and ice off the windows in the morning and have the heater blowing luke warm air right away.1 point
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Odd brake wear
1 pointThe only way pad will look like a wedge is caliper and rotor not centered. Slider or can your caliper bracket be bent1 point
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Odd brake wear
1 pointI was thinking something along these lines too ^^^ still weird that steering wheel is off to one side. I had my truck slightly pulling to one side one time and after rotating tires it went back to normal. But steering wheel off... something is putting drag on it, assuming you didn't touch anything else but breaks. Make sure to use high temperature brake caliper grease, don't use anti-seize it dries out and things get sticky.1 point
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PCM Ground Splice Repair
1 point
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Noticed a fuel smell and a few drops on the pavement.
I had a small drip from bell housing and checked my oil pan bolts, yep sure enough all lose, no more drip now1 point
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Noticed a fuel smell and a few drops on the pavement.
If its fuel that banjo is about the only culprit. If fuel is leaking from the valave cover you have bigger problems. Just to add though, do you see any leaks where.the injectors connect to the head? That will run off the back of the block, drivers side. Also there is a tee down below the banjo and back behind the fuel fiter canister. Drivers side again. That is the first place mine decided to leak fuel.1 point
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Acceptable AC voltage with grid heaters on
My wife and I just moved into our newly built house just 10 miles northwest of Baker City. From @Mopar1973Man' place, it is 86 miles (compass heading 251 degrees) as the crow flies - much farther if you use the highway. Friday, November 13th - first round 8 inches Sunday, November 15th. - second round 7 inches Sunrise - yesterday morning - John1 point
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Acceptable AC voltage with grid heaters on
You can replace them yourself, It's a very easy job,1 point
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Acceptable AC voltage with grid heaters on
Things to think about... W-T ground wire mod really does cut back the amount of AC noise fed back to the ECM and PCM which the PCM will carry that AC noise right to the field and cause it to amplify the noise. Good block and body ground are REQUIRED. If you measure above 0.2 voltage drop from battery negative post to block replace the cable(s). There is zero need to a negative cable jumper you can test by hooking up jumper cables between both negative post and measure the voltage drop with or without the jumper if there is any change change the block and body grounds. If there is no change like my truck where the voltage drop remains 3mV DC with or without a negative jump this means that it does NOTHING and has zero benefit. Actually the block can flow way more current that a jumper cable. Hence why it does nothing. Make sure your alternator is bench tested for AC ripple. Typically a full load test will create a value around 1.0 to 1.2 Volts under full load on a test stand. If the alternator is passing on the test bench it will pass on the truck as well. Grid heaters draw way more than what the alternator can charge at an idle. Don't start your truck and leave idle to warm up at 800 RPM. This is where I typically use either Mopar1973Man high idle or the Quadzilla high idle to up the RPMs to 1,200 this increase the charge rate more, increase air movement around the diodes keeping them cooler. Reduced the stress on the alternator. Bad battery cables are far more common than you think. Voltage drop test is a excellent way to verify cables and terminals for good function. Being you testing under the high loads. "Black" terminal is a lead that is oxidizing, typically a positive post. Engine oil helps reduce the amount of air contact and the acid contact on the terminals. Terminals need to have that fresh lead appearance. Lead oxide is will resist current flow, typically creates warmth to heat at that spot too. Running you hand over terminals careful and wire if you feel heat that cable is failing. Bad rotor brushes in the alternator can create AC noise as well. Some local shops could do the replacement in just like 15 minutes and retest for AC noise. (DuroBuilt, Nampa ID) - Thank @AH64ID Consider reducing total loads on the electrical system. Like I've done HID headlights which are only 35w for both. Driving lights are 18 for both. Previous light was four 100w flood lights and halogen bulbs (45w /65w). LED's are fraction of the electrical load. Look at other stuff like blower motor too if you fan only work on high the bearing are gone and the blower resistor over heated and blew out. Replace both and you'll reduce you electrical loads there. Disconnect the grid heater if you in warm climate and don't require them.1 point
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Acceptable AC voltage with grid heaters on
Requirement. DVM able to measure any AC frequency below 2 volts. Black probe goes to the passenger battery. Then the red probe on the alternator charge post. Engine fully warmed up and batteriescharged up and no loads running. 0.05 AC Volts seems to be the top limit for most.1 point
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W-T ground mod/150amp breaker question
I kind of touched on this in another thread but can't remember which one or find it so here we go. Sorry for rehashing this. I did the basic W-T ground mod and installed a 150amp breaker between the alt. and passenger side battery. The breaker seemed to trip early (it was a cheapo from Amazon $12 made in china) but prior to the mod not once did it ever fry the 140amp OEM fuse which leads me to believe that the breaker is sub-par. So my question is: Which 150amp breakers are you all using with no problems? I have no tuner or major mods for that matter, basically stock truck, original alternator with about 148k on it. Need to get this done since it is getting chilly and I'll need the grids before long and the extra draw there will surely trip that cheap breaker. I've had them disconnected over the summer.1 point
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APPS voltage Adjustment - Stopping the Myths!
1 point