Mopar1973Man

I tend to stay away from package deals so when module gives up you'll still have your own gauges (Fuel pressure, boost and EGT's). I've seen far too many time where a module failed and the driver looses his gauges then takes a risk of high EGT's while towing or other wise. With a separate module and gauges then if something happens like Dripley just unplug the module and continue on with your stand-alone gauges but like Dripley when his died it took the gauges as well and I know he tows heavy. Modular designs are much safer than packaged designs.

Seen it before. But wonderful video on how to garden.

Another Internet myth. There is no internal battery and all software is stored in PROM. To reset the ECM just turn the ignition off for 25 seconds.

Here in my fluid pile... Change engine oil with 15w-40 either Exxon or Mobil oils (CJ-4) every 10k miles (book calls for 7,500 miles) Change Transfer case with ATF+3 every 30k miles. Transmission NV4500 use Mopar Trans Fluid and change fluid every 100k miles. Automatics 47RE should use ATF+4 fluid and change every 30k miles with a band adjustment. Axles / Diff's mine are open diff's so I use straight 80w-90 GL-5 gear lube. Power Steering fluid I flush the system out using just SuperTech Power Steering fluid. Coolant I change every 30k miles with either Napa Coolant or SuperTech Coolant and fresh thermostat.

Each grid heater draws roughly 95 Amps x 2 = 190 Amps total. The alternator only produces 120 Amps roughly.

Like around here we've had some seriously low temperatures around here that are colder than usual as well. Like at the Tamarack Mill my buddy Eric Coates drives there every day for work and he's seeing temps in the early morning hours of -15*F to -20*F easy.

I enjoyed the RV275's for a nice mild power gain very controlled smoke also. I upgraded to a +50HP injector from Vulcan performance and found that a good performance injector with clean spray pattern will produce even better MPG. But RV275's and +50's are still clean injectors also good power upgrades.

NAPA - PN# WH6820 roughly $8.00 for a the needle valve in the picture. NAPA also sell all the 1/8" NPT brass fitting too for fair price.

3,750 x 2 = 7,500# - 6084# = 1,416# Over 3,415 x 2 = 6,830# - 6084# = 746# Over More food for thought.

It's more that just one part I see so many add multiple parts like wheel size change, larger tire, leveling kit, etc. so yes I see Dorkweed comment as some what valid because why else would you add a leveling kit most do it to slide 315's tires on the truck which again changes more geometry. So why is it that two completely stock trucks don't require any of these mods? Stock size tires (235's), stock track bar (96 is still OE), only changed 1 track bar and 1 set of ball joints on the 02. Both trucks live more of its life in the back country dirt roads. But still no death wobble here... It's not the stock OE part that cause the issues. Something about a modification(s) that people are doing are creating the death wobble then require modification parts to correct the issues.

I'm a bit fussy when it comes to gauges any more. I would rather have full mechanical gauge if possible. Pyrometers with amplifiers and fuel pressure gauges with electric sender are just asking for a issue. But like my old DiPricol gauges are true mechanical and still going long after the company has closed their doors.

Smaller tires. 235/85 R16 Load Range G's (3,750#) @ 110 PSI Compared 265/75 R16's Load Range E's (3,415#) @ 80 PSI Or... Standard 235/85 R16 Load Range E's (3,042#) @ 80 PSI Food for thought.

As soon as I open that TDR PDF I was kind of reading it but once they started talking about all the mods to over come death wobble and steering issues including Luke's Links and Steering braces I was instantly turned off by the article because I know its not correct. Being I've never needed or use any of these bolt on fixes and got 224k miles on my truck and still running straight as a arrow I know the problems stem from other places. Like this is spot on. Some modifies the front axle geometry and expects everything to be correct. Or like increasing tire sizes you now change the leverage angles and length against ball joint and steering parts. Both truck here the 96 and 02 are still in stock form and no added steering fixes added. Still straight as a arrow and tight in the steering.

Just Capitalize... Carry on...

I agree with Dripley double check your tone wheels and double check your wiring to be sure everything is hooked up tight. More than likely the 2 front sensors are mismatched. Rather common problem.

Interesting to see a conversion of that type. But not exactly something I would consider using for a power plant though.

I'm not sure. I've heard mixed reports of snubbers some work and some don't. If you do opt fo the snubber I would still highly suggest you add a needle before the whole system so to turn it off in case of a problem.

Remember 2 cycle oil is lower in cetane so the ignition knock is reduced to uncover the other knock that you now hear.

PCM controls lock up, 4th gear, sensor for trans temp, etc. Manual Trans doesn't have any tie with the PCM just a switch for reverse lights.

Hey share the snow. I've only seen maybe a 4-6" since winter and need another 24-36" yet...

Same here. 3.55 gearing and right at about 16,000# GCW.

Suggestion joecool911 and diesel4life to set a time to either call on the phone or use the chat room here.

I don't have the flaming water here. But I will admit that CLR is a awesome product for cleaning showers and tubs. I spray it on full strength and let it stand a bit and wipe it out with a wet rag.

Like usual some over at TDR has all the fancy test equipment. But they do put out some seriously good information.

Like my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has single front calipers and drum rear brakes. Stops fine. Then the 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 has dual piston calipers front and rear and stops fine as well. But really I don't use the brakes much on the 2002 Dodge because I've got a exhaust brake on it.