Mopar1973Man

The thing I hate about any kind of recording device is that if anything happens its always seem the law enforcement will get to it first. If they arrest you or if you in a accident your hauled off to a hospital they still get it. Might be a good thing and it might be a very bad thing. From a guy that scrambles his MAC address, has passwords in excess of 64 characters long, then also block out most site scripts to be sure sites are not tracking me, and knows how to use firewalls properly.

Agreed... Even I'm fighting 18-19 MPG last time I ran the 02 Dodge Cummins. Still seeing -10*F in New Meadows, ID in the morning hours.

These fail also. I got one locally that is loose as well and no way to repair it. The factory mount is cut off the frame too. So the owner has to buy this bar all over again he's not happy.

There is Dodge FSM in the download section you can tap for information. Double check the seal. I had to ditch mine because the filter seal was leaking dust into the turbo. The plastic box over time starts to deform and not seal as well.

Diesel engines are much easier than gasoline to rebuild in my humble opinion. I've done a few gasoline engines but never rebuilt a diesel engine. I would like to ask what air filter are you using?

Same thing here at home my solar is only 10x bigger from 45w to 400w worth of solar power and 810amp/hours of batteries. I still got the little 2kw genny for charging up for times I need more juice. Like here I've got a 6.5kw genny for the house. I'm used to living off 4kw worth of power.

I tend to agree I hate the idea of all the traffic cameras in Boise and larger cities, I hate the idea of the cops wearing cameras on there shirt recording the traffic stops. I hate the idea of being tracked and recorded. All the laws giving government agencies the ability to record us but prevent us from recording government agents in action...

This where you buy the beer, find a friend to drink beer with and then get him to do the fuel tank while you continue to drink beer and shoot pictures of him doing the work. Lot easier than mod'ing the truck bed.

Here is my test boot. 4" sewer boot small piece of 4" pipe one ABS sewer cap one air chuck fitting

That's all I got is the straw. This is how the old school AirDog pump were sold back in the day. But I don't need a anti-slosh basket. I've been know to drive all the way down to Empty mark without much problems. Then I've pumped out my tank a few times for repairs and the straw pumps every last bit from the tank there is less than a quart of fuel left. But I know there is no way to do that with the truck moving.

Remember gang the headlight ground is NOT under the hood but at the driver side kick panel being the last place it stops at is the headlight switch in the dash and goes right down to the kick panel.

I don't need too been there done that. But I'm less than 1/8" inch from the bottom and no issues with air... Unless I'm driving like a stole it then I can pull hard enough at 1/2 tank to such air.

Time to check the Trackbar typically the track bar will wear just a bit and the axle will shift on direction or another and give this slight pull.

That clips on the top of the vent control shaft. I'm not sure of its exact function but I do know its for diverting air and in the control of it. This is not part of the blend door. The tab on the bottom hooks the main door below it so make sure of your position before placing the top cover back on the HVAC case.

Strange... I've heard comments about it locally but prices are still the same old yet. I'll ask out local propane guy that is on the fire dept when I seen him at the Tuesday meeting.

They are currently on sale if you have a coupon. (For some reason I think I goofed on the price there... ) http://www.harborfreight.com/solar-panel-kit-45-watt-68751.html Here is the inverter I also had a 25% off coupon for it. http://www.harborfreight.com/1200-watt-continuous2400-watt-peak-power-inverter-69659-8890.html As for us we just need a small amount of power but at night using the lights in the RV tend to drain the batteries and the furnace too. So by morning your firing up a generator. But it would be nice to just have the solar charging the batteries up through the day and not have to fire up the generator. Unless needing some serious power. I like to camp out in the woods away from RV parks or campgrounds. What I'm aiming for is to have all my controllers and inverter in the same cabinet with the master fuse panels and such. Then when I need a bit of 120 power I'll have a inverter I can flip on and plug in a short cord to power up stuff. Like its kind of nice to bring along the small TV and DVD player and sit back watch a movie.

I'm on my way of installing solar panels on the RV. These are not going to be roof mounted but free standing. MoparMom and I figure you could just fold up the panels and lay them on the bed while travelling. Right now I'm doing a bit of bench testing and so far I'm very pleased with the 45 watts worth of solar panels. This solar panel kit is from "Harbor Freight" for $139 buck on sale. Then while I was there I picked up a 1200 watt inverter for 120 VAC power. Figuring against typical Amp hours of deep cycle batteries I figure 1200 watts is more than enough. 10 Amps x 120 Volts AC = 1200 Watts = 12 Volts DC x 100 Amps Then figuring common RV deep cycle batteries are roughly 100 Amp hours then you have two batteries so that would give you roughly 2 hours of full 1.2kw power in theory. But we know you can't run a battery totally dead nor will a inverter operate below about 10.5 volts.

Just thinking about this again. I really do have a problem with this. Here is Wild & Free over in ND telling about how great the oil drilling business is and that there is plenty of fuel to go around but just a few states away its "OMG and WTF?!" Like here the price of propane has been the same for years at $3 a gallon. I just bought propane 2-3 days ago and nothing new here.

Electric heater?

Left headlight fuse is powering both light. Right headlight fuse or circuit is dead. Pull the fuse and ohm it out and make sure its 0 ohms. Or test it on voltage and ground your black lead and touch the test pins on the fuse and check for voltage on both sides of the fuse. If power is on one side and not the other then the fuse is blown.

Ok.. One method is pulling the blue & wire plug and the alternator fuse and going for a ride. If the problems stop then the alternator is the issue. Another method is to leave everything hooked up and have the truck fully warmed up and idling and measure the output voltage AC at the alternator BATT terminal on the alternator and the battery NEG. If the AC voltage is below 0.1 Volts AC then your fine. The best method is this. Being you can see for sure how much noise is created.

Just like everything today there is only a small few companies that produce the same part for all dealers. So on quick search I found Gates, Stant, CST and Thomasnet that product automotive thermostats. So Cummins is most likely the exact same thermostat sold by another vendor name but at a reduce cost without the name. So that being said there is no real reason for high dollar Cummins stat being it fails just as well as any other. Being there is only 4 that I can find that produce these then... Chances are they could be the same. So for argument sake the Stant thermostats could be made for NAPA and boxed as such and Cummins take the very same one and marks it up with their name on the box. But who knows?

There was a thread on CF.com about that and a guy posted a picture of both a Cummins thermostat and a NAPA thermostat and they are exactly the same. The only difference is price. Save you money and consider a NAPA as your next one. Typically I change coolant every 30k miles and thermostat at the same time so I've never really had a bad thermostat.

Yeah but here is the catch. +12 Volts -> L & R Head Fuse -> L & R Headlight -> Dimmer Switch (switching grounds) -> Headlight Switch -> Ground So typically if there is a dim light its a head light fuse because the ground circuit will back feed power to the blown fuse side. Fuse have been known to crack and not appear blown and the only way to test them is with a DVM. If it was a bad ground then both light would be dim being the head lights are switch off at the ground not the power.

Remember there is 2 grounds and 1 positive to the stock head socket.