Mopar1973Man

I'm home... I'm safe... Here some pictures of what I dealt with...As for me I'm home for the time being and am on standby if USFS has issues with structures in the fire.

Thank you... I'm home for now but I've got to be back up at 4am and head back out to the firelines bright in the morning. I'll be back soon to my typical answer the phone as soon as the fire is contained. Right now the fire is 21,000 acres and 0% contained the last I heard. I'll be taking my camera tommorow to get some pics. I'll be safe and I'll be back!

Idling doesn't count really... Mine goes through the roof exhaust braking down long grades I can easily reach 160-170*F...What counts is the temperature under boost. Now that number has bearing on timing and fueling tables.

That's my thought because if the box is sloppy then the truck is hard to control. If the sector adjustment (or lash) is done properly to take up the slack in the box then the control is maintained. Like right now I've also got a slight offset with my aluminum mags and no issues with wandering even with a RV in tow. But steering linkage is a sum. So if everything has a bit of slack then there is a lot of slack from the steering wheel to the the axles themselves. Also have to remember that all modifications have a effect to the geometry of the front axles.

Here is some info on it... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTTP_cookie

No. Even my Edge Comp doesn't change EGT's either off or on. EGT's are controlled by speed and gears. Like I just returned back from a 4 day camping trip with the RV trailer and absolutley no big deal controlling EGT's climbing 6-7% grades. When I seen the grade coming I drop back one gear from 5th to 4th and kick the RPM's to 2000-2100 roughly 55 MPH and most times it would hover about 1,000-1,100*F but a few cases it did tip the 1,200*F mark but not for long. I'd played with my Edge Comp and turned it off on one grade still same EGT's no change of EGT's at all from off to KILL MODE on 5x5.

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Double check you additional drivers and your BIOS setting to be sure. The only flaw I've got on my computer is I not have any suspend ablities. (S1 or S3) Its a Nvidia video card problem.

Hardware store... They should carry o-rings for plumbing applications. It might not be the absolute right o-ring but beatter than nothing. As for cheap and right you can get a box of o-rings from Harbor freight for like 5 to 7 bucks.

Two way for a task manager at least for me... 1. Go to the terminal screen and type in... top 2. Go to the application list and look for "Task Manager" This is for Ubuntu (LXDE Desktop). As for desktop it can be installed and then switch at login time...

With my old school Drawstraw I there is no screen at all but my AirDog 150 has a 100 micron prefilter before the pump. I would highly suggest you still put a filter before the pump to prevent rotor jamming from debris.

I know on Ubuntu its automatic. In the netowrk folder there will be a Windows Network icon. I'm so heavily modified now that I couldn't even explain it to you. But I know got the look and fell and the power of Windows XP but in a Linux software...Ubuntu 12.04 Desktop (LXDE) 395 MB / 3.85 GB Ram 9% This might help... http://www.liberiangeek.net/2012/05/windows-7-vs-ubuntu-12-04-how-to-enable-advanced-file-sharing/

You'll eat good...

Still check the fuel pressure... I'm really worried now that there is a inline filter and it possibly cause problems for the VP44.

Wasn't sure... But I was looking at the 02 listed in the signature so I was wonder was it a typo or a misplaced thread? Yes a 1st Gen should be a copper/brass radiator so yes you could have it rodded out and soldered up.

You on the right track. But I would highly suggest you do a Vulcan Big Line Kit and not use the facory plumbing with FASS DDRP pump it will perform better with 1/2" plumbing.

I don't know of any way to repair aluminum radiators. My first thought is to maintain the coolant properly so the pH levels never rot the aluminium and steel parts. So I would just replace the radiator because if it thin in one spot it already thin in several other spots too. If the radiator is thin and leaking I would watch the oil cooler and the heater core closely too.

Might not being the lift pump is not working properly. You might end up loosening the banjo on the VP44 for a moment and bumping the starter and watch for fuel flow. If it just dribbles then the lift pump is shot and the pressure reading are true.

Last resort trick you might try. Try pumping the clutch pedal several time rapidly and see if that helps the issue. If so you still got air in the line yet. Rapid clutch pedal pumping might work the last bit of air out.

Lift pump just die on you? http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/32-stock-lift-pumps Common failures of the stock lift pump is the plastic hub breaks in the rotor or the check ball regulator fails internally and won't pump pressure at all.

I think the problem lies in the fact there is no real way for the PCM to display true flow information in your case. Then your distances is way off from change in tires so it going to be tough to get accurate information I guess its the end of the road for the SG...

So if its not the starter then I would follow the cable route. Make sure if you have them made that all the proper wires are soldered into the terminals for you.

You mean the shield ground? The black braided cable that goes from the PCM case to the firewall? This doesn't make connection with the harness though.

Ok... Thinking out loud here.Batteries Good?Battery cables Good?Neutral Safety Switch Good?Ignition Switch Good?Starter Contacts Good?Starter Brushes Good?(Unknown) Is there a starter solenoid relay and fuse is the PDC?

Actually I don't think it will work at all because gasoline fuel injection is roughly 40-50 PSI and the diesel lift pump is only 12-15 PSI even if you did get it to work the pressure would be too much for the VP44.