Mopar1973Man

My little Star 9mm... Mostly used for the 4 leggers around here but always kept near me for the 2 leggers when I make it to the Big city. Yes I open carry and conceal carry as well. No. This is not the only firearm I've got but this is my favorite.

Here is something from another forum at... http://www.idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=10173 It about the 13 rules of gunfighting everyone should know.

System is low on freon what it sounds like. Sandsen Compressors in their service manual that a compressor should not cycle more than 3-4 times a minute more than this and clutch damage can occur. So I would highly suggest you get gauges on there and check it out. When I typically recharge a A/C unit I don't worry about weight as much as I worry about pressure on both hi and lo side. The lo side I typically look for 35-40 PSI and hi side I look for 250-275 PSI. Then once everything is stable I kick the throttle up to 1,200 - 1,500 RPM's to check the pressures again. If the pressure drop below 30 PSI on the low side I add more freon to get the compressor stay going at 35 PSI at road RPM's. What good is it to have the compressor pull the pressure down and have the compressor cycling while your driving but holding solid when your at a stop? Remember the lower the lo side pressure the colder the output from the dash. The low pressure switch is installed in the system to prevent the evaporator from getting down to freezing point so the low pressure switch will drop the compressor to allow the temperature to rise then lock again. (Typo the marks are suppose to be 35*F and 40*F)

My buddy down the road has a car trailer that got 2 batteries in a steel box lined with rubber. The batteries are use for the 8K pound winch, lighting, and trailer brakes (break away).

Oh thank, you thank you, thank you!!! More SAE documentation of diesel engines... You good to go with SAE docs! I'll get this moved to the library very very soon!

Wastegate arm only moves a small amount...

It fine... My 1996 Dodge Ram is 233% offset... That's the beauty of the ScanGauge it will calibrate to any vehicle! My 2002 Dodge is 22.5%...

It this point I would do a compression test and see where you sit. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing

I wish... But something I sumbled on and figure I would share... Nothing more...

I'm not sure... :think:At any rate I wouldn't use it. I would still drill and tap the manifold for a more accurate temperature reading of the exhaust gas temperatures.

:lol:That kind of funny... Your in the same boat as I am. MoparMom is tone deaf she can hear deep bass but high pitch whines not at all. But I've got ears that pick up the slightest change in injector rattle and drive me crazy. :ahhh:As for your turbo cleaning take your time and do it right.

Might double check your fuel pressure and error codes and see whats happening...

Absolutely normal.Blow by when its pushing oil out of the tube and dip stick now you got problems. Kind of like the Chevy 3500 fire truck down at the fire station some ran it low on oil and now it pushing oil out the dip stick and the breather tube. So as long as ther is no oil loss then your fine...

Correct. But here is the problem you need to insure the torque converter stays locked up to get the use of the exhaust brake but the transmission will not shift down if the torque converter is locked up forcably. When you manually lock the torque convertor the transmission will shift up normally but never will down shift till you unlock the torque converter.Ask CajFlynn about his lockup controller.

State of charge is checking the battery voltage after appriximately 3 hours. Typically disconnected. When I showed up the owner's house I brought my DVM (Digital Volt Meter) check the standing at rest battery voltage 12.4 Volts been sitting for better than 24 hours but hooked up to the truck. So now started the truck and saw the alternator take a bit of time to push up to 14.1 Volts which is good. But after shutting down it took less than a few minutes for the batteries to fall back 12.4 volts again. So knowing the batteries are 10 years old and the owner only drives the truck maybe 6K-8K a year. So I know the batteries are pretty well done in age. But when I replaced the batteries and left the old ones sit on the ground for over 2 hours the voltage was 12.8 when I checked them. So I'm going to have to say the batteries are charging but the cold cranking capacity is been greatly reduced for such small draw to pull it down 12.4 volts.

No arguing... Actually in total agreeance!

Check this out gang... http://lubricheck.com/ From the manufacture site...

Yes sir you do... I finally got tired of listening to that loud whistling noise while towing the trailers all the time. Since the ring was reinstalled its much quieter in the cab and more relaxing. Especially driving 6-8 hours going down to Boise, ID or Ontario, OR and back. No performance loss and no MPG loss...

What was funny about it when I voltage tested them they shown a bit low in voltage 12.4 while hooked to the truck. Then when running they where at 14.1 Volts but it took a little bit to recover. The only thing that made me actually give up on the batteries was the age. So what was strange after he drove down to my place and I changed them out the batteries sat in the driveway for 2 hours or so and tested the voltage again 12.8 Volts. So that shows me that amp capacity of the batteries was getting short anyways.

Just need a lock up controller. Like CajFlynn he HAD a exhaust brake on his 01 Dodge truck till he wore it out. As for 3 cyclinder high idle it will only engage if.Coolant temperature is below 140*FThrottle is at 0%Brakes are not applied (service brake)Intake Air Temperatrue Sensor is below +15*F Then it will engage... As for using the exhausr agains 3 cylinder high idle all you get is a truck that heats up very rapidily to 175*F and then is cancelled. Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGT's) will be roughly 800-900*F (stock) my RV275's can push 1,000*F easy...

There is a black box for testing the VP44 is other there but the only thing its actually for is taking the place of the ECM and allowing the truck to start, idle, and high idle, and shutdown.

Because the fuel in the filter is taken from the top not the bottom. So if the lift pump won't fill the filter anymore then its sucking air off the top of the filter. You got to remember the filter is a two purpose device to filter the debris out of the fuel but also to separate the water from the fuel storing the water in the bottom of the filter can. So the output from the filter is very high up in the can to prevent water from being drawing into the pump. Its a poor picture but you can see the tube barely. The top of the tube has a hole.

Here is the low down... This is what I've read from Bosch (not Dodge or Cummins). "Bosch VP44 injection pump requires 70% of the fuel to be returned to the fuel tank for proper cooling and lubrication of the injection pump"Ok.. 70% of what?Here we go. Using my scanGauge II in my truck the highest GPH rate I've ever seen is 20 GPH at WOT stomp. So if the lift pump is 100 GPH (AirDog or FASS) then that's 20% being injected and 80% being returned. This math changes based on lift pump volume so if you have 150 GPH lift pump that's 13% injected and 87% returned.So I would aim for a filter setup that capable of handling maximum volume of your lift pump. Like I'm still running the stock filter and the 3 micron filter on the Airdog with only a 2 PSI drop in pressure. This is good this means there is very little restriction and the lift pump and plumbing are keeping up with the VP44 demands.On a true stock system with 6mm lines and stock Carter lift pump it really restricted. Stock Carter only puts out 35 GPH so that's 57% injected and 43% returned. Then the stock 6mm lines are only rated for a max flow of 75 GPH with 0 PSI at the far end. Also I know the older can style filter housing are restrictive to like 35-45 GPH if I remember right. That's why the drop in can where designed later to replace the restrictive version.

Just good old part solvent that is mild. Like mineral Spirits will work too. If you submerge the turbo in solvent remember to pump some oil through the oil fitting to re-prime the shaft bearings before starting the engine again. As for any washable media I don't trust them at all... I've been running a BHAF for most of the life of my truck and this is what the turbo looks like now at 201K miles.

Actually if you don't mind... Call me and I'll set you up a account on the article database and let you write it in the system. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php