Mopar1973Man

3 Things kill Bosch VP44 injection pumps.1. Low fuel pressure 10 is bottom line 14 is suggested minimum.2. Fuel Lubricity Bosch states fuel needs to be 450 HFRR or less. Today fuel is 520 HFRR3. Filtration should be as low as possible. Most stock filters ar 10 micron but I suggest 2-3 micron.

Really there is no big reason for the catch bottle really I drip so very little out in 2 months it not even worth noting really.

I've got that low pressure light on mine too (Cummins) but Cummins ow pressure light comes on at 3.5 PSI which way too low. Lower limit is 10 PSI and suggested minimum is 14 PSI. Unless you get a adjustable Hobbs switch and set it for 10 PSI. But I still would suggest pressure gauge over any low pressure light.

It's a requirement for a snubber or needle valve. But I'm finding more and more snubbers fail to portect the senders. If your needle valve is setup properly it should take 2-3 seconds to rise from 0 to what ever pressure you got. Gauge should never jst snap to position this is a bad thing. As for sender location you want to be as far back away from the injection pump as possible but still forward of the last filter.

If it going to be parked for extended periods you might consider just pull the IOD fuse out using the clip.

A little run down about ECM and Wait To Start light...When the key is twisted from OFF to ON and you normal see the wait to start light come on. There is several thing that have to happen for it to light up. first of all you got to understand the ECM is just like you home computer. ECm had a PROM (Programmable Read Only Memory) kind of like your hard drive, processor, RAM (memory), etc. So when that key is turned on the processor reads the PROM into RAM (booting) and then starts the software. One of the first task is to check IAT temps and see if grid heat is needed. Well when the Wait to stat light is lighting up is typically because there is a issue with the internal RAM and memory errors. So booting process is slowed way down trying to write the information to RAM. Eventually it does out right fail. As for a cause I finding that alternator AC noise is a big factor to electronic life span on these truck. You might have the alternator check as well as batteries and battery cables for problems too. Being the ECM and VP44 share the negative battery cable for ground.

VP44 are know to fail with out codes. As for myself my first and only VP44 failure was a P0216 failure. Fuel pressure is too low you should try to stay above 14 PSI. So I would say its possible the VP44 is wore out from marginal fuel pressure.

The Mopar 426 Hemi will also be king...

I typically get about 30-40K out of set of tires. My biggest problem is dirt roads and exhaust brakes usage. I really good about rotation and keeping pressures in check. I know I've posted it before but here I got again... (axle weight / 2) / tire weight capacity ) x tire max inflation = suggested inflation pressure

Double check the cable. I know its a royal PITA to remove, but if you removed it and coiled it up in a bucket of waste engine oil and let it soak overnight, you might prolong its life and prevent sticking again.

If you can even park the truck inside a enclosed building would be better than plugging in outside with the cold wind blow around the block.

Holy Cow... I think farmer Joe lost the trailer of cows getting to the track...

WAIT TO START light comes on typically and runs the grid heaters that are draing 190A worth. So if the temps are above +32*F you can start without grid heaters with no issue. Below +32*F you might have issues getting it to start.So now if the block heater was plugged in about 2-3 hours before hand you wouldn't need to wait at all just hit the key and go. Block temperature should be roughly 90-110*F which will also be plenty for a no grid heater start.

Then there is CajFlynn the towing nut of the site... Ask him what that weighs???

Both are possible...

That idea was snagged from over at RamForum.Com. There some guys over there that are producing this bar that you just bolt on. So I figure with a bit of shop time and junk steel I could do the same. But I will mention by placing the fog lamp in the grill and putting the air dam back on the front I gained about 2 MPG on that little 5.9L gasser. It was a well worth it mod. :thumbup2:Just need to buy a bulb for the one side... :banghead:Now that wiring idea will work with any fog or driving light you want to use. The only reason I switch to these is the fact that in the winter time the highway are heavily graveled and I end up breaking at least 1 fog light a winter. So after spending huge money on KC's or other name brand lights to break a lens I finally switch over to the seal beam bulbs because no biggy if it broke smash it with a hammer and vacuum the glass out. Hook up the wires and snap back in the rubber bucket. simple...

Remember this is a 1996 Dodge 1500 5.9L Gasser... Not a diesel. All it built on is a piece of re-bar. Welded tabs to the rebar to mount the light to the re-bar. The hacked up a old extension cord for the wiring. I know this is very redneck looking but it works awesome.

Just a little heads up for you 3rd Gen owners I know I had the simple error coe list at the top of the page. I'm currently working on the explained version of the error codes for the site you might want to take a look over here. It's incomplete but about half of them are there now. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes Enjoy...

Possible. A lot of people have had issues with air leaks around the quick connectors. Since it a suction line it never leak outward. Even with the engine off air leaks inward draining the line out.

Auto - 3.55 - 16,000# (GCWR) - 9,300# (Long Bed - Trailer)

Local NAPA store...

Model - GVWR - Engine - Transmission - Axle Ratio - GCWR - Max Trailer (short) - Max Trailer (long)

http://youtu.be/Hzgzim5m7oU

I've been using FireFox 17.0 (Ubuntu 12.04). No issues here Rarely hang and very secure. Using a few plugins.. [*]Click and Clean [*]Better Privacy [*]Ad Block Plus [*]No Script You also got to remember FireFox for Windows is different than FireFox for Ubuntu. Even surfing to other site like CumminsForum with all it ad banners and such are all blocked up. no nagging popup ads either. Now I know ISX is a Opera Fan.

:shrug:I left both of them in for a very long extended period (roughly 30K to 50K miles) kept monitoring the IAT temps and they remain valid even with the sensor all gunked up. so I don't give the sensor cleaning much effort any longer.