Mopar1973Man

Crank sensor come apart? Crank tone wheel coming loose?

"There is no such thing as a free lunch"That being said you can't produce a fuel using a alternator/battery and expect the fuel energy to be greater than the load that it put on the engine to produce said fuel.

Welcome to the family even from the frozen north. Just be careful playing in the sandbox you might find a cat turd or two.. (Ewwwww)

No it doesn't know I just found a GPS thread onm a RV site I'll see if I can find it again...

I'm the same way...Fuel Tank -> AirDog 150 -> Stock fuel filter / heater -> VP44Only a 2-3 PSI drop typically.

Could you explain how this is done? Not to hijack the OP thread but I think it would be good know for all reading.

Not really. Remember I run winter front on my truck so no wind blows through the intercooler without any issues with outside temp as high as 50-55*F. But still in all you shouldn't have oil in the intake because if the seal does give up you'll have a runaway engine to deal with.

I would suggest you take it into to a alignment shop and have them double check everything.

Here is a formula on tire pressure. You need axle weight and itre information from the side wall. ((Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Weight capacity) x Tire Pressure Capacity = Inflation pressure My front axle weight is 4,440# Typical Load range E's 3,042# at 80 PSI ((4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 ) = 0.72 x 80 = 58 PSI (Round up to 60) That simple. So doing the math on 4,440 and 2,860 for front and rear I typically inflate to 60 front and 40 in the rear. Hauling trailers its 60 front and 60 in the rear.

Wouldn't it be easier to use... http://www.lonewolf-software.com/automotivewolf.htm

There is lots of family members coing and going little different from CF.com and other sites. But welcome to the family.

Shouldn't be any limitations. :shrug:I'm curious whats your fuel pressure (idle and WOT) and error codes if any? I've been starting my morning at 37-45*F already and getting high temps of maybe 75-80*F.

Seperated your post for you. :thumbup2:As for the wheel and tire combo I'm running 16 x 7 Aluminium Mag Rims and 235 / 85 R16 tires which weigh 62# a piece.

The overhead console can be removed by squeezing the 2 tabs pulling down slightly then sliding either forward or backward can't remember. Just be nice to overhead its plastic and getting rather old.

I'm going to say its a air leak in the quick connectors of the Raptor very very common issue. I just got done with a member here last night on the phone trying to figure a stall issue and most likely a air leak on the suction quick connector.

ISX did whole series on valve lash and performance by going to full loose extreme (0.015 0.030) to the full tight extreme (0.006 0.015) and he notice more performance on the tight side than loose. But for safety factor of valve expansion I only went a few thousandths tighter because of the long high temps I run hauling trailers. But even I notice a bit more improvement in the turbo sppools slightly faster, MPG's and exhaust brake operation.

I would double check the fuses with a ohm meter to be sure the fuse is not cracked. As for the ground most of that stuff is grounded in the driver side kick panel.

Glad you got it all fixed and running...

Dang Hex I figured your still up to no good in Sandpoint Idaho. Yeap I'm back to Salmon River Rural Fire Dept. I'm currently working to restore my fire station to the glore I kept it in the past. But is been a long hard road plus all the current fire that are burning. I've got a brush truck that got 6.5L Chevy Diesel and huge blow by issues. Someone ran it 5 quarts low on oil. Then my structure engine has a overheating issue with climb the canyon walls to get ot some of the homes. So when I get time I got to get the tools and the blessing of the Administration to get this all fixed ASAP. I can tell tales of all the mis-adventures I've had so far since I returned. But not on a public internet forum though...

Hopefully I can help... As for AirDog, Raptor and FASS use a method of spring and check ball basically to control output pressure. Raptor has been seeing issues with the adjustable system and has a upgrade you can get if needed. I'm going assume the new ones are already upgraded. I just used washers to shim my spring to adjust the pressure. I'm sorry I've don't have any information on this pump as of yet. My old school AirDog is really quiet and typically can't even hear it running. As for the newer AirDogs they can be rather loud at times. I'm still running my stock fuel filter without any problems. I've got 19 PSI at idle and 17 PSI at WOT. This is with the Fleetguard 10 micron filter installed in the can. There is no problem using a AirDog 150 on a stock truck. The bonus is the pressure is much more stable over a AirDog 100 where you might see 3-5 PSI fall versus my 2-3 PSI fall. I would opt for the 150 if you could. But the 100 will do just fine to about 450-500 HP. Also I would convert over to the old school JIC / PushLoc fitting like what I'm using to take care of air leak issues. There is a member here that I spent over an hour on the phone isolating out a air leak issue on a AirDog 165 that was most likely the quick connectors. Your a twin of me. I haul a 8x8 utility trailer and the truck loaded with firewood or hitch up the 31' foot travel trailer and go camping. My fuel system is still rock solid even in the extreme conditions of towing on steep grades. One of my local grades is 16% and that's not a typo. No. Your post is fine... Hopefully I covered you questions.

Here is my blowby on a warm summer day. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HB3yIoWPLY As long as your not losing oil and having to add oil constantly you fine. My truck blows a good trail of vapor, drips on the floor now and then but never requires oil in between oil changes.

AH64ID has both a boost pressure gauge and a drive pressure gauge as well. So he's watching both sides of the turbo for performance. He's the man to talk to about turbos.

stock is 0.010 intake and 0.020 exhaust...I'm running 0.008 on intake and 0.018 exhaust...

They have different sized pins that they can slide in the holes and measure the holes for size.

To get that boost you need...* Boost fooler like a module or programmer* Boost elbow (HX35W Turbo) or J Hook (HY35W Turbo)Then the boost will rise above 20 PSI and go up. There is no problem with running 32 PSI for a HY35W turbo and 35 PSI for a HX35W turbo. No harm will come. But if you decide to upgrade and go up from there then you will be considering head studs and and other mods.