Mopar1973Man

Ok remember this...ECM -> Smarty -> Edge Comp -> VP44 -> 140 HP InjectorsSo what ever you set the Smarty to then then the Edge Comp is increasing that signal again. In all reality I would say you way heavy fuel already and could stand to lose the Smarty for the daily driving and rely on the Edge for the most of it since the only thing Smarty is doing is kicking just fuel.

Good to hear your doing good... So did they report on the mass what it is?

Seem like you got it fixed...

Takes some boost and time to cool the manifold...

Wastegate should be fully open by about 20 PSI. So your P0234 is going to be a wastegate issue not a MAP sensor. Stock turbo without a boost fooler shouldn't make much more than 18-19 PSI typically after about 23 PSI the P0234 code is thrown.

There is several types of aircraft going up here but most helicopters and sky cranes. But there was some large aircraft doing retardant drops too. Basically why there is there no really good action or fire pics we as a Volunteer Fire Dept were stagged in water point that was close to all structures and homes so if the fire was to possibly come close during burn out operations then we could respond from a close distance of a few miles than 20-60 miles if we to respond from a fire station as normal. Since USFS was fairly sure of the structures where protected and secure they released us for the time. But never know if we might get paged again.

In Riggins, ID its $4.609 diesel and $3.979 for gasoline. Prices have jumped here since the last holiday.

http://www.nwcn.com/your-news/169361056.html http://www.ktvb.com/news/slideshows/Sheep-Fire-near-Riggins-Idaho-169325886.html http://www.nwcn.com/home/?fId=169217376&fPath=/news/local&fDomain=10222 http://www.spokesman.com/stories/2012/sep/09/more-fire-evacuations-idaho/ http://www.ktvb.com/news/Wildfire-destroys-one-building-near-Riggins-169230196.html http://www.inciweb.org/incident/article/3240/17115/ More news on it. But yes gang I'm here in one piece and doing good this morning after a good nights sleep. The cause of the fire is basically a electrical fire from a transformer the blew up and threw sparks in the grass. Then off to the races. There is 2 other fire here locally that are currently in progress so I'm on standby to respond at anytime right now. So in the mean time today I got to do some truck repairs for a water tender that got a damaged front brake line and some backfire issues. So I'm not out of the woods exactly yet...

I'm home... I'm safe... Here some pictures of what I dealt with...As for me I'm home for the time being and am on standby if USFS has issues with structures in the fire.

Thank you... I'm home for now but I've got to be back up at 4am and head back out to the firelines bright in the morning. I'll be back soon to my typical answer the phone as soon as the fire is contained. Right now the fire is 21,000 acres and 0% contained the last I heard. I'll be taking my camera tommorow to get some pics. I'll be safe and I'll be back!

Idling doesn't count really... Mine goes through the roof exhaust braking down long grades I can easily reach 160-170*F...What counts is the temperature under boost. Now that number has bearing on timing and fueling tables.

That's my thought because if the box is sloppy then the truck is hard to control. If the sector adjustment (or lash) is done properly to take up the slack in the box then the control is maintained. Like right now I've also got a slight offset with my aluminum mags and no issues with wandering even with a RV in tow. But steering linkage is a sum. So if everything has a bit of slack then there is a lot of slack from the steering wheel to the the axles themselves. Also have to remember that all modifications have a effect to the geometry of the front axles.

Here is some info on it... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HTTP_cookie

No. Even my Edge Comp doesn't change EGT's either off or on. EGT's are controlled by speed and gears. Like I just returned back from a 4 day camping trip with the RV trailer and absolutley no big deal controlling EGT's climbing 6-7% grades. When I seen the grade coming I drop back one gear from 5th to 4th and kick the RPM's to 2000-2100 roughly 55 MPH and most times it would hover about 1,000-1,100*F but a few cases it did tip the 1,200*F mark but not for long. I'd played with my Edge Comp and turned it off on one grade still same EGT's no change of EGT's at all from off to KILL MODE on 5x5.

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Double check you additional drivers and your BIOS setting to be sure. The only flaw I've got on my computer is I not have any suspend ablities. (S1 or S3) Its a Nvidia video card problem.

Hardware store... They should carry o-rings for plumbing applications. It might not be the absolute right o-ring but beatter than nothing. As for cheap and right you can get a box of o-rings from Harbor freight for like 5 to 7 bucks.

Two way for a task manager at least for me... 1. Go to the terminal screen and type in... top 2. Go to the application list and look for "Task Manager" This is for Ubuntu (LXDE Desktop). As for desktop it can be installed and then switch at login time...

With my old school Drawstraw I there is no screen at all but my AirDog 150 has a 100 micron prefilter before the pump. I would highly suggest you still put a filter before the pump to prevent rotor jamming from debris.

I know on Ubuntu its automatic. In the netowrk folder there will be a Windows Network icon. I'm so heavily modified now that I couldn't even explain it to you. But I know got the look and fell and the power of Windows XP but in a Linux software...Ubuntu 12.04 Desktop (LXDE) 395 MB / 3.85 GB Ram 9% This might help... http://www.liberiangeek.net/2012/05/windows-7-vs-ubuntu-12-04-how-to-enable-advanced-file-sharing/

You'll eat good...

Still check the fuel pressure... I'm really worried now that there is a inline filter and it possibly cause problems for the VP44.

Wasn't sure... But I was looking at the 02 listed in the signature so I was wonder was it a typo or a misplaced thread? Yes a 1st Gen should be a copper/brass radiator so yes you could have it rodded out and soldered up.

You on the right track. But I would highly suggest you do a Vulcan Big Line Kit and not use the facory plumbing with FASS DDRP pump it will perform better with 1/2" plumbing.

I don't know of any way to repair aluminum radiators. My first thought is to maintain the coolant properly so the pH levels never rot the aluminium and steel parts. So I would just replace the radiator because if it thin in one spot it already thin in several other spots too. If the radiator is thin and leaking I would watch the oil cooler and the heater core closely too.