Mopar1973Man

Double check the fuse with a DVM or Ohm meter and be sure the fuse didn't crack. It will appear fine but the fuse will be cracked and no connection. As for the Dodge FSM the software is there for the decompressing the RAR files. (Software folder)

I would verify it from the Dodge FSM stand point and see if there is a voltage setting for idle position. Then get it to that point and go from there. Also It seems like Cummins engine in the early years didn't hold to any common standards. Like the MAP sensors on the 98.5 to 02 are mis-reported and skewed badly. But get to 2003 and up its reports fine. It like when they got to CR engine they final figure out a OBDII standard.

I'll keep that in mind... Thank you for the find...

I live in the dust and dirt and still getting a long distance from a BHAF... I'm now on my second filter and installed my first back at 50K miles and ran it till 185K miles... I love paper element filters!

Scangauge II shows percentage of throttle and doesn't always show 0 when at idle. Like on the 1996 Dodge Ram it shows 13 at idle and on my 2002 Dodge Ram it shows 0 at idle.

P1689 code is a communication problem or wiring problem typically... But I would still get that gauge hooked up and installed so you can verify it not a fuel issue causing excess heat damage.

Well it going to happen soon... I'm getting plans put together with 2 other families to do a mass firewood cutting weekend. Lots of cutting and lots of hauling.

Another trick... Learn to drive like there is no brake pedal. Seriously. Every time you use the brake you converting energy into heat on the brakes. Best to get the most roll out of everything you do before using the brakes. I drive twisty canyon roads without using my brakes I might be 5-10 MPH below the speed limit but I'm not slowing down to get around a corner and stomping on the throttle either. Like climbing up and down grades I know I lose quite a bit of MPG climbing so I take my time slow and easy then on the way home I try to coast as much as possible because the more you do the more the VP44 is shut down and not pumping fuel! Now I also just confirmed the outside temperature makes a huge change in MPG's. Like this morning I had to drive to New Meadows, ID to meet some people well with 48-52*F weather I lost 2-3 MPG over the entire trip (20 MPG from what I remember from this morning). I know in the heat of the day at 100-110*F I can hit 23-24 MPG without any problem.

With all the debris I drive over I've never broke a back up light yet.

Ummm...Hate to rub in it... But the last time out with my travel trailer I got 14.1 MPG...I normally range just above 20 MPG... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRQdoPs_tLo

Just remember six CR injectors are worth the same as three VP44 injection pumps. The only weakness CR engine have are the injectors hanging up and spraying down the cylinder walls with fuel till it has some serious blow by. If you do buy a CR truck make sure to beef up the fuel filters and run good quality diesel fuel. Avoid using any fuel additives with CR's if you can unless its a high quality fuel lubricant or cycle oil (200:1 Ratio).

A post I made over on CF.com... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4290&d=1343350723 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4291&d=1343350734 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4292&d=1343350748 I get up earlier and leave... 241 Miles / 55 MPH = 4.3 Hours 241 Miles / 65 MPH = 3.7 Hours 4.3 Hour - 3.7 Hour = 0.6 Hours (36 minutes difference) But in just reducing my speed I now gain from old 16-17 MPG to 23-24 MPG. 241 Miles / 17 MPG = 14.1 Gallons * $3.759 = $53.00 241 Miles / 24 MPG = 10.0 Gallons * $3.759 = $37.59 $53.00 - 37.59 = $15.41 Savings... 24 MPG * 35 Gallons = 840 Miles on a tank 17 MPG * 35 Gallons = 595 Miles on a tank... Just for fun... I live 20 miles from New Meadows, ID proper. Lets say I got to drive to work every day in New Meadows, ID 20 Miles / 55 MPH = 0.36 Hours (21.6 Mintues) 20 Miles / 65 MPH = 0.30 Hours (18 Minutes) A whole 3.6 minutes difference and I can save fuel and money... You'd have to be nuts not to do it... Also there is no speed limit in my area above 65 MPH. Typically highway speed out here is 45 MPH to 65 MPH. The only place above that is the interstates and I avoid them like the plague. Interstates are plan wasteful. So what's there hurry about? I rather get up a few minutes earlier to save $15 bucks every day...

I'm also full 1/2" from tank to VP44 but I'm also a newer style filter can. I only see 2-3 PSI fall with this setup even with a filter inside the can.

What you spend one 1 set of injectors I can buy enough injection pumps to travel 400,000 to 600,000 miles. (2-3 VP44's) (Personal opinion) One of the main reason I will not upgrade trucks... In my mind we've come around a full loop a second time. Back in the days of muscle cars and big blocks we did the same them from the 60's to the 80's. Making massive HP/TQ for the time and them by the 70's EPA/CARB stepped in and turned everything into a turd with all the smog garbage. So here we are with the diesel truck doing the same thing. So like my Charger I'll hold out with my 2002 till something comes my way that I consider worth buying and won't empty my savings account to change injectors or some other major part. Let's say right now I could swallow a VP44 replacement if need be but replacing injectors in a Common Rail I'd end up selling the truck.

Alright I'll fix you...

I thought the same thing till someone corrected me too... The 6.7L was introduced in the 3rd gen body and then the 4th gen came out in 2010... Kind of like some people think the 94-98 is 2nd gen and 98.5-02 is 3rd gen because of the fuel system change... :duh:Common mistake...As for the truck Dobbienut... Do the deletes (DPF and EGR), change the cam (smog cam), and get a Smarty to tune up the ECM. Then you'll be all set up. Just stay after the injectors and don't let it wipe out a cylinder. Injectors are expensive so I highly suggest you invest in a killer fuel system (extra filters!).

I'll get a picture in the morning... Geez... :duh:There is 3 screamin' beavers on the floor of my shop right now...

Generation change is based on body style change not engine change... I got corrected as well on that...:wink:1st Gen - 1989 to 19932nd Gen - 1994 to 20023rd Gen - 2003 to 20094th Gen - 2010 to Current

I've been cutting trees down in the backyard. But I'm giving this wood away to my friend its very very green and will not be ready for this winters burn at all. So in my shop right now there is 3 screaming beavers sitting on the floor... The trailer is hitch on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 and it full of tree limbs. Need to head for the dump in the morning. Then I've got about 5-6 cords of wood already here from last winter that need to be split up and stacked. But by the time I get out there its just getting hot out and like well I'll wait for cooler weather. Basically its a warning when explosive fire danger exist. Low humidity (<15%), High temperatures (>90*F), high winds possible, plus possible lightning storms...

Make sure all sub levels are set to 5... For example 4x1 and 5x5... If you set to main level 5 it runs like a dog till you turn up 4x5 and 5x5 and now it runs strong.

I would start out checking for vacuum leaks or vacuum line damage. Fairly common.

Front sensors are located in the wheel bearings...If you replace them you must replace them as a pair. Typically ABS light comes on because there is a imbalance between the 3 sensors. The 3 sensor should show the same speed so if the truck is travelling 55 MPH all 3 sensor should show the same if not and say the front left is showing 45 MPH and the other 2 sensors are 55 MPH then of course when you apply brakes the ABS will automatically assume that the front left is partially locked up and never apply brake fluid to the wheel giving a firm feel to the pedal and pulling sensation.

Bench test them both... Batteries and alternator... Typically a free test.

That plastic clip was designed so the dealers could store the vehicle for a long time without losing the batteries on the truck from Ignition Off Draw devices.

I tend to agree... A small vacuum leak will bleed of the vacuum and the doors will automatically reset to defrost mode. If the leak is enough then it might fight to return to Vents or other positions.