Mopar1973Man

Yes sir you do... I finally got tired of listening to that loud whistling noise while towing the trailers all the time. Since the ring was reinstalled its much quieter in the cab and more relaxing. Especially driving 6-8 hours going down to Boise, ID or Ontario, OR and back. No performance loss and no MPG loss...

What was funny about it when I voltage tested them they shown a bit low in voltage 12.4 while hooked to the truck. Then when running they where at 14.1 Volts but it took a little bit to recover. The only thing that made me actually give up on the batteries was the age. So what was strange after he drove down to my place and I changed them out the batteries sat in the driveway for 2 hours or so and tested the voltage again 12.8 Volts. So that shows me that amp capacity of the batteries was getting short anyways.

Just need a lock up controller. Like CajFlynn he HAD a exhaust brake on his 01 Dodge truck till he wore it out. As for 3 cyclinder high idle it will only engage if.Coolant temperature is below 140*FThrottle is at 0%Brakes are not applied (service brake)Intake Air Temperatrue Sensor is below +15*F Then it will engage... As for using the exhausr agains 3 cylinder high idle all you get is a truck that heats up very rapidily to 175*F and then is cancelled. Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGT's) will be roughly 800-900*F (stock) my RV275's can push 1,000*F easy...

There is a black box for testing the VP44 is other there but the only thing its actually for is taking the place of the ECM and allowing the truck to start, idle, and high idle, and shutdown.

Because the fuel in the filter is taken from the top not the bottom. So if the lift pump won't fill the filter anymore then its sucking air off the top of the filter. You got to remember the filter is a two purpose device to filter the debris out of the fuel but also to separate the water from the fuel storing the water in the bottom of the filter can. So the output from the filter is very high up in the can to prevent water from being drawing into the pump. Its a poor picture but you can see the tube barely. The top of the tube has a hole.

Here is the low down... This is what I've read from Bosch (not Dodge or Cummins). "Bosch VP44 injection pump requires 70% of the fuel to be returned to the fuel tank for proper cooling and lubrication of the injection pump"Ok.. 70% of what?Here we go. Using my scanGauge II in my truck the highest GPH rate I've ever seen is 20 GPH at WOT stomp. So if the lift pump is 100 GPH (AirDog or FASS) then that's 20% being injected and 80% being returned. This math changes based on lift pump volume so if you have 150 GPH lift pump that's 13% injected and 87% returned.So I would aim for a filter setup that capable of handling maximum volume of your lift pump. Like I'm still running the stock filter and the 3 micron filter on the Airdog with only a 2 PSI drop in pressure. This is good this means there is very little restriction and the lift pump and plumbing are keeping up with the VP44 demands.On a true stock system with 6mm lines and stock Carter lift pump it really restricted. Stock Carter only puts out 35 GPH so that's 57% injected and 43% returned. Then the stock 6mm lines are only rated for a max flow of 75 GPH with 0 PSI at the far end. Also I know the older can style filter housing are restrictive to like 35-45 GPH if I remember right. That's why the drop in can where designed later to replace the restrictive version.

Just good old part solvent that is mild. Like mineral Spirits will work too. If you submerge the turbo in solvent remember to pump some oil through the oil fitting to re-prime the shaft bearings before starting the engine again. As for any washable media I don't trust them at all... I've been running a BHAF for most of the life of my truck and this is what the turbo looks like now at 201K miles.

Actually if you don't mind... Call me and I'll set you up a account on the article database and let you write it in the system. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php

Oh Gawd!!! Actually I did... I told him to make the oil just a weebit heavier and hoping it hold together for his trip to Boise and back.

Might be worth checking out your state forum and seeing if there is other family member that might help you out with this issue and turn the wrench for you. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/88-Nation-Wide-Groups As for the lift pump the only way to confirm its dead is to check for fuel pressure and see if the lack of pressure. Like on 24V truck the lift pumps usually still whined but pumped nothing. Usually what happened is the rotor lost connection with the motor shaft because of a cheap piece of plastic glued in the hub. So here we are back to the fuel pressure being a good way of checking to see if its actually pumping.

It would be best to remove the turbo from the truck and remove the compression housing and clean it throughly. Reason why is that compressor wheel is spinning roughly 200,000 RPM's (That's not a typo). So that small amount of dirt and girt on the compressor wheel might chew up the bearings being out of balance possibly.I wouldn't attempt to clean it on the truck too risky spraying cleaners or anything in the intake track that might exploded from the grid heaters or cause a runaway. Just best to remove it and clean it right. As for the rest of the air system its going to be most likely just as dirty so check the tubing and the intercooler inside and see.Hate to say it but K&N filter are not good at all...

Welcome to the family... As for the filter can it will still be full of fuel it will not empty itself. As for the lift pump I would get a replacement pump (not a intank) but a quality pump of some sort. (AirDog, FASS, Raptor, Assasin, Etc.) also get a fuel pressure gauge it will help to protect your investment.

Sad thing is we are 180 miles either North or South to a Dodge dealer that can handle Cummins engines. So it can get expessive quickly just saying dealer.

As long as the gauge is after the last filter you can hook up anywhere in that line. Farther from the injection pump the better it will protect the gauge from water hammer damage which affects both styles electric and mechanical.

He's got a fuel pressure gauge installed and is monitoring the fuel pressure closely. As for the current VP44 he knows its damaged as of right now.

But is it the right pump? Is the pump used maybe? The only way to rule it out is to swap and see...

Solution to this problem has been found... It was the batteries where shot and too weak. I kid you not so far he's reporting to me that all the problems have cleared up and gone away. Except for the the P0216 code which is still there.

Loping is a fuels system issue typically. I would back track all the injectors, cross over tubes, injector lines, etc. Even might have to change the VP44 and see if it changes.

I can pull quite a bit more than just 9 PSI in 1st or 2nd gear...Might check fuel pressure and error codes...

It not my truck with the P0216 code but a gent here locally and the P0216 code is presistant you can clear it drive it a few miles and it right back again. As ofr performance there isn't much for loss but you notice a loss in MPG's a slight loss in power but it will contniue to run.

More than likely you are having issues with the isolator really common. What you need to do is reload it with coolant and rebleed the line again. Also remember to reset the piston too.(Personal opinion)I really don't like the isolators at all. Like in your case the isolator is case of your inaccurate fuel pressure readings. So you'll go the fight to re-setting the isolator and double checking everything. Then if you check the pressure with a different gauge directly connected to the fuel you might find a difference in pressure. I've been direct plumbed now for over 8-9 years and never had a issue with fuel in the cab. Also I'm using air brake line after check out the burst pressure I found out air brake line is rated to 700-900 PSI burst pressure. I hardly doubt 15-20 PSI is going to do it. Also it the same line used on bigger trucks...

Do tell about the data logging? Is it out yet?

If the problem is truely fixed the codes with self erase in 40 warm up cycles. So if you drive the truck for about a month it should be gone. Warm up cycle is defined as going from cold engine below 140*F to over 160*F worth of coolant temperature and then continue to run without setting the codes again. So like I said if the problem is truely fixed it will clear on its own.

Funny you should fine that as a answer. I just got done doing the same thing for a local gent here and replaced his batteries for a dead pedal issue. Strange what a fresh set of batteries will do for starting and performance issues.

Compression test might show a better picture of whats going on... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing