Mopar1973Man

Correct... You insert a 56K ohm resistor into the plug of the IAT lead. It should enable high idle 3 cylinder.

Then the only thing I could say was the speed aggravated the problem...

In all the vehicle I've owned I've never ever had a violent blow of a tire.I've had tread face separate on my old Dodge Motorhome but it could barely run 55-60 MPH at 4,000 RPM's. No damage done. age factor here got me. One both my 2002 and my previous 1972 Dodge trucks I punctured tires with rocks, tree limbs, stobs, etc. Some so big the tire was ruined on the spot.As for tire after 5-7 year regardless of remaining tread the tire should be replaced. The tire manufacture date is on the stamped part of the tire in week/year. As for properly inflating tire I'm normally a stickler for that I will readjust tire pressure when I hitch up trailers or haul loads.I kind of wonder if you two guys had tires rated for lower roads speed? 200,000+ miles no blow out and plan to stat that way for many more miles!

In all the vehicle I've owned I've never ever had a violent blow of a tire.I've had tread face separate on my old Dodge Motorhome but it could barely run 55-60 MPH at 4,000 RPM's. No damage done. age factor here got me. One both my 2002 and my previous 1972 Dodge trucks I punctured tires with rocks, tree limbs, stobs, etc. Some so big the tire was ruined on the spot.As for tire after 5-7 year regardless of remaining tread the tire should be replaced. The tire manufacture date is on the stamped part of the tire in week/year. As for properly inflating tire I'm normally a stickler for that I will readjust tire pressure when I hitch up trailers or haul loads.200,000+ miles no blow out and plan to stat that way for many more miles!

Looks like your going to need to buff out that fender... Then the tires of course need changing now.

As for my truck I'm only let a few choice friends drive my truck but I was always in the passenger seat. My parents have never driven my truck. And then a few shop mechanic have driven my truck but that about it.

Belt has to come off first thing... The just remove the two bolts there "should" be plenty of room. I say much more being I've never changed mine yet... :rolleyes:EDIT:Oh crud... I just realized its a CR engine... :banghead: Yeah you might be in a tighter jam...

Wow. There is a few of you in Ohio...

Death wobble might be from worn shocks, loose steering parts (tie rods, ball joints, track bar, etc.)

Water pump is only 2 bolts...

Please do and include lots of pictures and video if possible.

Double check the brwon wire down on the starter for shorts and follow it back up to the PDC (Power Distribution Center). You might end up pulling the starter and checking for internal shorts. If this is beyond you then you might end up just replacing the starter... Maybe but Maybe someone here might have a little more to add or suggest.

On the brake part of it is there ABS or BRAKE light lit?Did you purge the system of old fluid before setting all back up?I just wondering if there is debris in the fluid that might of plugged a port or something. As for the brakes its sound like a ABS issue almost..

Well you VP44 is for sure gone...1st smoking gun - All the codes.2nd Smoking gun - The poor performance and lack of power.Now this might address the failed part by why did it fail? Did you actually test the fuel pressure?

The only reason why not is because it doesn't have the isolator and its not desired by the gauge manufacture either. Also it really couldn't be pre-made because of the location of the tap point. It might be all the way under the truck at the AirDog / Raptor or it might be in this case at the stock fuel filter. But get the bit and pieces isn't bad it just most gauge dealer shove the isolator in the kit too.

Please do... If I'm dumb enough to re-install my stock 6mm lines and banjo bolts please beat me with a stick.

Still got my vent pipe in place... It seems to always put 1 drop of oil on the floor every time I park in the shop. But as for the oil loss there is none. It's always full of oil.

Never assume anything... :smart:Fire176969 I'm glad you not hurt or caused any damage with your truck. As for the Death wobble it seem more common with oversized tires and lift kits than with stock trucks. But yes even stock trucks can get it as well and all front suspension part have to be looked at closely. (Ball joint, tie rods, steering shock, shocks, track bar, etc.)

(Not to ) Don't you have a WD hitch? http://www.eaz-lift.com/eazlift/pro/pro_elite.html

Nope... A friend on the local fire Dept. I stopped in to check out a performance problem and found a P0216 code. So doing the next step we installed a fuel pressure gauge and so far he's got 15 at Idle not bad but I didn't drive it. So He'll report back his finding by next fire meeting.Katoom you must of not seen the tapped banjo bolt?

Everyone knows there is 2 thing cause dead pedal...1. APPS Sensor failed (P0121, P0122, or P0123)2. VP44 with or without codes.Now there is a 3rd thing to the list...3. ECM.I've now seen 2 cases of ECM's giving dead pedal...

Just installed a ISSPro today in a 2002 Dodge Cummins with a stock fuel system...ISSPro Fuel Pressure Gauge, 1/8" Air Brake Line (rated at 600-800 PSI), WH6820 Needle Valve, Compression Fittings (Male and Female), and Tapped Banjo Bolt

I'm not a NV5600 but a NV4500 trans... But I've been using the Mopar fluid now for the life of my truck. No issues... No 5th gear nut problems... Change fluid every 100K roughly.

Hey Rogan tell him to join up...

Fluid condition? Debris in the fluid? Bands adjusted?Error Codes?