Mopar1973Man

Wow! :drool:Between you, me and the fence post I might be back to fire fighting again. There is a long story but I'm not going to hijack your thread...

I'll have to get my manual out and get the XGauge codes for you... How about it's rare for me to get above 2K on the tach... Unless I'm hot dogging. I do most grades at about 1,500 to 1,600 RPM's But if I'm towing I hold my RPM's at 2K...

Someone needs to wash there truck more also inspections of major systems need to be done more often...

Basically I've got Cmg (Current MPG for the day), Tmg (Total MPG's for the tank), Gfr (Gallons of Fuel Remaining), O2 (Oxygen sensor)I've got a few others but don't use them much or they never worked for my applications...So typically I leave these up on the display...MPH = SpeedCmg = Current MPG for the DayTmg = Total MPG for the TankMPG = Instant MPGSo what I do is keep my MPG above the goal MPG I want to to reach as much as possible. I use the knowledge of the terrain to aid me in reaching my goals. So like If I drive to McCall, ID I know that by the I reach there and climbing a 7% grade I'll have roughly 16-17 MPG. Then while in town I baby the throttle and keep my number as high as possible. I might gain another 1 MPG driving in town. Then on my way home I try to drive in a fashion to allow the truck to coast as much as possible gaining the whole way home. Hence my ability of reaching 23-24 MPG locally in the mountains. If you have to apply brake to make a corner and accelerate again your driving way too fast. Like travelling up and down Goose Creek grade I know the speed limit is 45 MPH. But the corners are 25 MPH (tight). So if I cruise at 35 MPH up the grade I'm not slowing and trying to build speed again (at least not as much).Like another stretch of road I travel from New Meadows, ID to Council, ID where it winds there the mountain I know its posted for 55 MPH but I typically drive it at 45-50 MPH because I can just about leave the cruise set and get around all the corners and never slow down.Anytime you use your brakes or exhaust brake you converting work energy into heat. So if you can drive in such a manner that you use just enough fuel to travel through a area without hitting the brakes you gain even more.In the state of Idaho there is no minimum speed limit. So you can drive slow as you wish but if you holding up more that 3 vehicles you must yield to traffic. (Pull over and let them pass). Since the economy is so poor up here there is so little traffic I can drive 35-70 miles and never have anyone pass me...

John I got a question?How do you deal with winterizing of that pressure tank how do you drain it out? Then how do you add antifreeze (pink stuff) without filling that pressure tank?

:banghead: I totally forgot about that! Yes your right you would use the that to do it single man...

As for the XGauge those are the commands to program gauges for what you want the SGII to do. Like being albe to see the O2 sensor on a gasser, etc.

When reassembling the calliper I would lube all the piston with a little brake fluid and press them into the calliper with a larger jaw channel locks or C clamp. Hose and bottle? Huh? I just assemble them to the truck and bleed them as normal.

Ekkk... Wow... You need to reconsider what your doing and look at your truck for drag issues.

Pistons need cleaning. You need to that them apart and clean the piston till it fits the bore without seals. Then the piston should naturally fall to the bottom without being push. Like this...

Flare Nut wrench and torque mine..

All right here... http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/

He knows I'm all the way over here on US95... If he just extends the trip just a little...

Shocker... Riggins, ID $3.659 for both gasoline and diesel...:stuned:As for my closest biodiesel station would be Biose, ID.

Glad to hear it... As for the boot get a can of hair spray and hose that boot done good and stick it back on and tighten it up. The hair spray will keep the boot from poppin' off. :wink:As for the radiator the reason it plugged up is you not keeping up with your coolant changes and flushing.

Actually I hate to say it but that line is direct wired to the battery through that fuse. It should be constant hot and not switched.

I store the gallon jug in the crate in the bed of my truck with a old quart bottle with the see-thru strip. I just pour into the quart and add what I need to. Been doing that way for years now... Not the cleanest or the easiest but it works.

Remember this is between uV (micro-volts) and mV (millivolts). I really doubt you'll be able to set it up and do it right...

Re-check the fuse with ohm meter (DVM) I've found several fuses that are cracked and not blown...

Good point... I forgot about that...:banghead: Maybe that why mine are on the axles after all.

I've done a bit of Google searches and turned up all kinds of documents and such but nothing exactly as for testing with a ohm meter really. One guy mentions that a lighted candle is roughly 800 degrees (Celsius I think) and should produce 3.2 mV from the terminals (open load).

I would consider it... But I typically use the bumper there for a step to crawl in the bed of the truck.

Mopar NV4500 fluid here (coming up on 200K miles!)

This was sent to me by another member of the site in a email mail. Very nice story and makes a point.DOES GOD EXIST? This is one of the best explanations on the nature of God that I have ever seen... A man went to a barbershop to have his hair cut and his beard trimmed. As the barber began to work, they began to have a good conversation.They talked about so many things and various subjects.When they eventually touched on the subject of God, the barber said: 'I don't believe that God exists.' 'Why do you say that?' asked the customer.'Well, you just have to go out in the street to realize that God doesn't exist.Tell me, if God exists, would there be so many sick people? Would there be abandoned children?I can't imagine a loving God who would allow all of these things.'The customer thought for a moment, but didn't respond because he didn't want to start an argument. The barber finished his job and the customer left the shop.Just after he left the barbershop, he saw a man in the street with long, stringy, dirty hair and an untrimmed beard.He looked dirty and unkempt. The customer turned back and entered the barbershop again and he said to the barber:'You know what? Barbers do not exist.' 'How can you say that?' asked the surprised barber. 'I am here, and I am a barber. And I just worked on you!''No!' the customer exclaimed. 'Barbers don't exist because if they did, there would be no people with dirty long hair and untrimmed beards, like that man outside.''Ah, but barbers DO exist! That's what happens when people do not come to me.''Exactly!' affirmed the customer. 'That's the point! God, too, DOES exist! That's what happens when people do not go to Him and don't look to Him for help. That's why there's so much pain and suffering in the world.'If you think God exists, send this to other people---If you think God does not exist, delete it! BE BLESSED & BE A BLESSING TO OTHERS! :pray:I really liked this, I hope you share it.........Life without God is like an unsharpened pencil.....There's no point to it.

Sounds like the XLT is giving you the code. Internally screwed up on the boost fooling circuit. As for the battery voltage you look like you got some rotten cables if the voltage is wandering that wide from one side to the other. Might consider this test... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables As for ether don't use it... Your taking a risk of the grid heater possibly igniting it in the manifold and cause a explosion. If you need to use it make sure to unhook the grid heater lead from the battery so the grid heater will not come on.