
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Valve cover gasket
Torquing the valve will do nothing. Being the bolts are shoulder with stops so it will not squeeze down on the gasket any more. Gasket replacement is required...Yeah I know they are spendy...Skip over to RockAuto.com they have it for $72 bucks...
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Fuel Pressure Valve
Old school filter can with the test port on top only flow 35 GPH max so they are restrictive themselves. That's why the newer design came out top loading and better flow rates at 75 GPH.
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A/C lines
From the manufacture... http://www.sanden.com/index.php?tag=MTExOTk3OTEwNw6
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Fuel Pressure Valve
165 GPH pumps should hold a 2-3 PSI drop150 GPH pumps should hold a 2-3 PSI drop.100 GPH pumps should hold a 3-5 PSI drop.These are average drop amounts for stock to mild tuned engines. More fuel demand the more the drop.
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Heater core project
Well... Errr... Ummm... Local NAPA sold them to me at $130 for the Evaporator and $125 for the heater core... :banghead:
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Heater core project
Heater core and evaporator core both are spendy pieces. Resistor is a good thing to while out. Check the blown motor bearing and the blower cage too. If the motor is wobbly or squeaky time to replace.
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Explain how injectors work without solnoids on them
All 12V engine have the injection lines directly to the injector. The return rail is also external of the engine too.
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A/C lines
Actually accumulator and the orfice tube (high pressure pipe) should be replaced. The accumulator has the drier in it and the orfice tube has filter in it. As for the seal kit it cost me about $10 bucks for the seal kit from NAPA.As for the compressor I would pull it out and drain the oil from it and then pick up a 8oz bottle of PAG oil and reload it. This way you know for sure the compressor is properly loaded with oil.
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I love wrenching on my truck and the beer afterwards.
Your going to pass me in the Northern part of the state... You'll go past hex0rz in the northern part of the state too. You too could get together and say hi for sure...
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A/C lines
Here is a full video of it... About 8:35 start watching http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ghDbhJDBvkc
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I love wrenching on my truck and the beer afterwards.
I've actually considered got to a 215/85 R16 next... (Also a stock tire size for 1 tons)
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3 In a Row
Keep going I know you can get up to 21 next...
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The RV: should I buy it?
Mileage isn't a issue but the pure age is... I would be concerned about the rubber seals and hoses. Like brake seals, bearing seals, engine seals, etc. All this stuff need to be looked at before running long haul with it. Engine wise its barely broke it.
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I love wrenching on my truck and the beer afterwards.
Always better when you got friends helping you fix your truck and drink beer too...
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VP-44 Cooler?
It will display the fuel temp where the sensor is just below the computer in the fuel. The little ribbon cable. Notice the bottom is aluminum...Now the top is plastic...Now notice the electronics are mounted to the aluminium not the plastic so no matter what blower or heat sink you make it not going to cool the electronics. But keeping good fuel flow under the pump 14-20 PSI that problem is no longer a issue.
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Fuel Pressure Valve
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General tips: Boost, Pyrometer, Transmission Temperature, Fuel Pressure, etc.
Fuel pressure: Is only for the VP44 mostly. But for the VP44 fuel systems I highly suggest to keep it between 14-20 PSI for a happy VP44. I know AH64ID can add in the CR fuel specs... :whistle:Then ISX can add in the P7100 fuel pressure specs too...
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Electrical wiring
I resemble that comment...
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Electrical wiring
Indeed... That is a slick fuse block for exactly what you want to do. Just make sure you master bus line is capable of the total amount of AMPs in that fuse block. So if you got 5, 5, 10, 20 you need a cable capble of 40 amp load which I listed above.
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Blown Turbo?
Turbo is possible but you need to pull the line to the intercooler and see if there is oil in it.
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RV refridgeration issues
Yours is a Norcold isn't it? There should be a mode setting for LP to force it on propane. I typically leave in on LP unless I'm hooked up to AC then I use Auto so when the power drops away fridge flips to LP modes on its own.
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Filled up with fuel tonight...
Passed thru Riggins, ID again today...Diesel $3.929Gas $3.869Then saw the sign at Hoot's Cafe near Whitebird, ID and about fell over...Diesel $4.599 (Holy Cow talk about back stabin')
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scan gauge
Like what are you looking for? Xgauges http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/ User Manuals http://www.scangauge.com/support/user-manuals/
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Share your RV mods...
Neat little volt meters...
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help
Welcome To the Family! Now I need some information from you...* Do you have any error codes? Check with OBDII code reader.* What your fuel pressure like? (Idle and WOT at highway speed)