Mopar1973Man

Raptor and AirDog's have the same kind of electrical hook up so it's all plug N play. The Bosch VP44 injection pump does require 70% of the fuel to be returned to the fuel tank for proper cooling and lubing of the VP44. The only way to do it is to keep the fuel pressure above 14 PSI all the time.Question do you have a gauge in the truck?

What some one needs to do is measure the amperage draw with cold fuel (near cloud point) and then set the fuse just above that amount of draw. Because warm fuel should be thin enough to keep it from even being close.

Article is here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/144-compression-testing Just wish I had the tools to loan you... Even I don't have to test compression or leakdown.

Here is a few to dig back on... Drag Coefficiency https://www.google.com/search?q=drag+coefficiency&sitesearch=forum.mopar1973man.com

Click!..... Door is unlocked...

Could of broke the input shaft or the clutch hub? :shrug:He's going to end up pull the trans just so he can see what's up with the truck.

Welcome to the family and I see other family members have jumped in and started to get you straighten out. I tend to agree with then so far as a start...

With the A/C put a set of gauges on it and check the pressures hi and lo side.Transmission could be a valve body issue. Check your line pressure if you can. You might talk to Pepsi71ocean.Tach I would check the crank sensor lead and the routing of the cable going toward the damper in the front. Sometimes the cable gets rubbed but a pulley or damaged.

I would also go with Vulcan... But I would ask Eric if the fuel heater could be added to his...(If you in cold country).

That thread sure did make history... I still to this day here about comments of that thread. :lol:I've even heard of people in the public telling me about CF thread about and tell them that Dorkweed and myself are the ones that farmed out this theory. It seem to work and thousands of people can't be wrong! Thanks DW for all the help in making it happen.

Damn rednecks at it again... Well I'm lucky to live in area where traffic is really low and people don't mind driving -10 MPH under the speed limit. Also state of Idaho doesn't have a minimum speed limit. So you can legally drive as slow as you wish but must yield to traffic if your holding more than 3 vehicles behind you. But most people don't mind -10 off of the speed limits. Typically set the cruise at 55 MPH. Like most of the canyon road is twisty tight corners so if you attempt to drive speed limit I will most likely respond from the fire dept to come clean you up off the highway. Oh yeah I'm back to the Salmon River Rural Fire Dept again.

Waiting for the reply...

If you got that old thread cut and paste a link up here so I can see it again. Old news it might but I'm sure people would love to see how we started and learned about the 2 cycle oil theory...Man that was a long time ago back when running WEO/WMO or even using clean engine oil to lube the fragile VP44 pump back in the day. Which now I proven that VP44 are a strong pump as long as you take care of them properly. 149K and counting!

Let's drink a beer together first...

Just got done working on a Subaru that had the same thing the belts are tight and still slipping. I took the belt of and felt the rubber in the inside and it totally glazed up and harden so the belt has zero way of getting grip with the pulleys. Hence the slippage.

Don't come to Idaho you'll find me draggin' anchor as well on a 2 lane roads. But I might give you a challenge of getting around me...

Actually I can answer that... When you run only the Edge Comp the boost pressure goes MAX like you see it but the problem is the VP44 is in full retarded timing. So you got lots of fuel but no timing to gain power. Eventually it will throw a P0236 code which is boost too high too long. Best to hook up the MAP sensor so you can get your timing back. Max advancement is right 0-5 PSI and boost goes up the timing retard which follows the Autoignition Temperature Laws.

Not bad... Not bad at all..

Another reason I don't want to upgrade brakes nor rim size... 17's are a PITA...

There is a thread that ISX explained the MPG per ton calculation. So what Prius can get high numbers, Smart Cars can get high number but can they carry or tow heavy cargo? :whistle:Fact remains that 99% of all goods in USA are trucked in by diesels. You'll never find a hybrid truck hauling goods to market.It might be great for people that live in big cities than drive 20 miles max a day to and from work. But how about the working class rancher or farmer? :whistle:I still say the Big Three need to quit playing the HP/TQ game and get back to building economical diesel trucks. Which in another thread here it illegal to build. :banghead:

Stealth plate is fine if 12V is seen. You might grab a live data tool and see if the MAP sensor reporting a valid pressures. If the MAP sensor is overboosting (boost fooler is bad) it will do the same thing as a weak connection.

Basically the same... Go here to check. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Only 1 rev/mile different and 0.1% offset of speed. Just remember for every 4 pounds of tires you add to the truck you going to need 1 more HP to keep it rolling. That why I high suggest going smaller if you can. Because the lighter the tire the less HP you need to keep rolling. Like just for fun I stop at a tire shop and had the guy weight Hoosier Drag slick tire it only like 20-22 Pounds! Less weight the more HP/TQ you get to the ground!

Fairly simple pump design. Now the other half of the issue I would upgrade the fuel filter setup to be before the pump with both a water separator / prefilter and a 2-3 micron fuel filter. This way both pumps are protected from any debris. Hmmm... :think:That might be the way to go in the future when my AirDog dies. I get one and make my own dual filter base setup for the pump. Just kind of sad to see something so simple cost so damn much!

235/85 R16 and 265/75 R16 are the same diameter of tire just the width and weight is different.Left (265/75 R16 85 pounds per tire) Right (235/85 R16 62 pounds per tire)

3.54 is a good ratio but if your towing daily like CajFlynn the 3.73 is also a good mix...