Mopar1973Man

Yes... I can watch my coolant temperature and no it doesn't jump up and down typically hangs right at 190-193*FNice and stable...

I can tell you the under hood temperature its between with the outside air temp (105*) is and the coolant temperature (190-195*) As for the VP44 as long as you pressure is 14-20 PSI then the VP44 temp will be the temp of the fuel more fuel in the tank the longer the pump stays cool.We made it 92*F here at the house.

I don't remove the latch but throw a rug or a rag over that thing. Yeah I know exactly what your talking about after awhile of laying across the hood latch your belly start to hurtin' and your knees are wore out from kneeling on the bumper.

Been ~$160 bucks for ScanGauge II for as long as I've known... http://www.scangauge.com/buy/buy-direct/

It was the left over weather tape I used on my topper... :lol:Cheap and it wasn't enough for the topper so I used the bits and pieces on the A/C...

Nitrogen would be a good choice. But I don't have a bottle hanging around the shop... So I got to use the next best thing.

I understand this very well. I've done a lot of it here in Idaho with friends... Something to watch out for is as you continue to barter with friends over and over eventually will try to slide out from under his end of the bargain long after the the job was done for him. I got one that still owes me over 3 cords of firewood yet. Then another one I spent 2 day helping him rebuild a Kubota Diesel tractor and got nothing. I don't mind bartering but when you friends look at you like "Wow! I can get it done on credit with him." Get it in some sort of writing if this a repeat offender... I love to donating time fixing vehicles and equipment but when the donated time is never returned in a timely fashion then the friendship goes downhill anyways.

As for leak checking you can take compressed air and fill the system enough to run the compressor and pump the dye around. I just fire up the truck with the A/C on and using a air gun with a rubber tip I fill the system on the low pressure side till the compressor runs. Then I let it run for 5 minutes of so... This is to get the oil / dye mix and push through the system. Then I'll park the truck in a darkened shop and grab the black light and go hunting for green dye. Also check and see how long it holds that pressure you added.After I'm done hunting... I place the system on a vacuum for over 15 minutes to draw out any moisture that the compressed air might of had. I'll normally will do a vacuum test as well after pulling a vacuum I will check and see how long it holds vacuum.If all 3 test dye, pressure and vacuum are good... I pull one last vacuum on it and then charge it up...

As for knowing how much oil in the system... The only way I found to measure it is to remove the compressor and drain it and measure it. As for the condition of the oil you'll be capable of seeing if there is debris or if the oil has darkened from compressor wear.

Not smart at all... I think all the Idaho cold and rain finally froze a brain cell there Hex... (I'm not far behind... )

No. No harm will come to either the engine or the A/C. Just that you might get dog's breathe after awhile from mildew that might form in the A/C evaporator. Typically its a good idea to shut down near home and let just the vent blow to dry the evaporator out a bit. But even that will not cause any harm just funky smell. Could be... Or there could be other things going on that might of worked in your favor... Fuel differences, weather / climate is warmer, driving style change, etc.

Your still missing it... If the battery feed from the PDC box is live with AC waveform that means everything hook to that fuse box has AC wave form feeding it. So the alternator is creating the AC waveform and feeding that power to all these things on the PDC fuse box and more... So if you remove the fuse and the problem is gone then you kill the source of the noise. As you can see the power comes in on 48 and 50 of the ECM and 22 of C1 on the PCM. Oh the red/white going to the fuel pump relay that's the power feed to the VP44. As you can see the AC waveform from a bad alternator can be fed to every device in the truck. The other thing your missing is the fact these truck normal cover 9-11 years before this problem pops up. So what changed that now there is RF noise (AC waveform) in the electrical system that needs filtering off? There is only one device on the entire truck that creates AC waveform which is the alternator. There is the digital signal from the computers but its very small voltage scale (2.5 volts). But still I say deal with the source...

Like myself I took off today and ran down the road and helped a local neighbor with A/C problems on her car. She has a very limited income and can't afford to really go to a shop and have it repaired. So I took it upon myself take my tools and go down to her house and work on it and get it straighten out for her.

All of the seals. All quick joints should have two O-rings. Then there is 2 washer seals on the compressor.As for the compressor I did it with a box end wrench and no cheater pipe on my back laying in the grass. As for breaking loose I used a ratchet and extension through the holes in the frame to break them loose. But assembly I just normally tighten them up and moved on...

Well on my AirDog it might be 30-40K miles (every 3rd or 4th oil change) before the filter gets changed and the Prefilter and Water seperator get changed every 5 years. The stock OE filter gets changed every 100K miles. I checked the stock OE filter at 50K miles and it was still rather white looking!

http://www.kentsoil.com/dodgebug1.htm Neat article but like all the others they are working to shield a unknown noise. Why not find the source of the noise and remove it? But still the RF noise is in everything... You filtering the PCM for the TQ conv but how about everything else? (ECM, ABS, Central Timer, etc.)?

Like I said you could upgrade to later filter housing... I'm still running a fleetguard filter in my stock housing and no issues on pressure.

Over on Tractor Farm and Family there is a video on how to skin animals using compressed air. Neat way to skin out animals but bad thing for yourself...

Fuel heater is the only reason I kept mine... Being Hex is up north of me I see why he kept his too. Might consider upgrading to a later model filter housing.

Not really... Because you want to keep fuel pressure at 14 PSI for the VP44. Thats why the last check valve just like the P7100 pump and VE pump are the same way... Actually the carter has a internal regulator too that routes extra fuel from the output back to the input flowing across the motor as lube and cooling. But all pumps have a regulator of some sort. AirDog and FASS with a 3rd line back to the tank, Raptor, FASS95 and Carter with internal return to input, etc. Because the small hole purpose is to bleed air but hold fuel pressure. That's why its so tiny of a hole. Not typically no. The problem is that most people don't plan the fuel supply system properly with the demand that they are putting on it. Hence the problem with up and down pressure. Actually the regulator problem is trying to build a cheap regulator that works for a long period of time. The carter lift pump regulators fail because the chrome plated BB (check ball) is beating against pop metal body (cast aluminium). S in a short time the BB tears up the seat and pressure drops. On AirDogs the check ball is plastic with rubber coating and it will squeeze back into the coil of the spring which is correctable by egg shaping the last coil. There is a bunch of VP44 pictures over on DTR.com internals, externals, exploded views, etc. The best I can give is a single strand of 14 AWG wire will not fit the hole. May take a thou or two off and it would. Cool... I'd love to sit down and talk shop with chalk and beer...

Just loosen and drop straight down. Leaving the bolts in the compressor. Make sure to clean around the hose fitting before removal to keep dirt from getting into the compressor. After that you can cover the holes with plugs or duct tape, etc...

Comes out in about 10-15 minutes easy as pie... 4 bolts mounting it to the block, 1 bolt holding the freon lines on. 1 electrical connector.Drain plug is on top...

Won't work because once the engine stops twisting the flow stops in the injection pump as proven here is this video... BC was going to build a lift pump timer to keep it running but I figure it out that it won't work because there is next to zero flow... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=YREpPrMxkHU

What's bad is after fighting with freon leaks for so long I found my compressor had less the 1 oz of oil in it. Compressor hold 7.1 Ozs (210 cc) so knowing the compressor is low the rest of the system would have less too. So I added the 8 oz bottle and never looked back.

Ahhh... :smart:MoparMom wanted her own little slice of the site with down to earth type topics. Home issues, family issues etc. Maybe a place where the wifes of the owners could get together. Etc. General Conv. is just your every day bar crowd and hang out...I'll get MoparMom on to respond...