Mopar1973Man

Yeah but if the alternator is the source of the ripple and now feeding it to all systems (ECM, PCM, ABS, airBag, Etc.) So filtering the PCM cures the TQ lockup issues but how about VP4 failures, ECM failin, etc... I'm figuring that some of these failures are from the AC from a shorted diode. Why is it that the rest of the problem disappear when the alternator fuse is removed? This why I'm still highly against the idea of using filters, extra grounds, etc... Because all you do is band-aid the problem but the alternator is still beating up every other electronic device on the truck. Why not fix the source of the AC noise? :shrug:Because if the diode failure happens on the negative side then AC pours through the grounds... If it happens on the positive side then some filtering might occur but still most DC electronics are not designed for AC noise.Here is a basic alternator circuit... Take notice there is 6 diodes (3 positive and 3 negative) if I should short out in either side that will be the side the AC waveform leak out on... More diodes fail the worse the problem gets. But in the DC life the gauge will continue to read 14 Volts even though the diodes are bleeding AC wave form.

Like on MoparMom's 96... The vacuum line to the cruise control was cracked but the cruise still worked for the most part but the vents would default to DEF every time I'd climb a hill. So I just finally gave up and replaced all the tubing under the hood to kill this problem. Because I was chasing the HVAC when it was the cruise control that was the cause even though it still worked. :banghead:

Busted... I forgot about that but isn't weird that both your old 99 and my 02 have kept there OE joint this long but a AAM axles have joint issues?

Something is going on if the water pump is rather new and built up that junk? Plain weird if the coolant is not all that old and now depositing junk on the water pump... Never is...

Is this it?

Dang I wish I could see what you wall looks like... What make and model of RV do you have again?

I'm still running the factory OEM joints yet, never been greased and no problems. The only thing I can think of that would be doing this is you have a shaft that is damaged/bent or there is bearing issues on one end or another.

Now if you keep you coolant changed / flushed every 30K this wouldn't be happening...

Exactly... There is a loss of vacuum for sure on the HVAC system that why there is no vacuum. The source vacuum should be on the black tube. All other tubes are function tubes in other words they are slected as you twist the knob. So if the black line going back out the firewall is damaged then there will be no vent controls. As for the vacuum pump is strong enough to over come a leak and still keep other feature working yet. (CAD and Cruise control)

As for weights... [TABLE] [TR] [TD][/TD] [TD] Scale [/TD] [TD=align: center] Maximum Weight[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] GAWR Front[/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 4,040 [/TD] [TD=width: 27%, align: center] 5,200[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] GAWR Rear[/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 4,280 [/TD] [TD=align: center] 6,084[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] GVWR [/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 8,320 [/TD] [TD=align: center] 8,800[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] GCWR [/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 16,080 [/TD] [TD=align: center] 20,000[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] Trailer Weight [/TD] [TD=width: 27%] 7,760 [/TD] [TD=align: center] 13,650[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 46%] Tongue Weight[/TD] [TD=width: 27%] [/TD] [TD=align: center] 900[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] As for the edge Comp... Main level are how much maximum fuel and timing your going to give... 1. 40 HP 2. 60 HP 3. 80 HP 4. 100 HP 5. 120 HP Sublevels are how faster you get to maximum fuel and timing in relationship to boost. Now remember levels 1-3 are BELOW stock rate and will most likely make MPG worse because no timing is given till you exceed the boost limit. This levels are defuel modes typically use for smoke control. 1. 33% of stock fuel/timing till 20 PSI of boost. 2. 50% of stock fuel/timing till 15 PSI of boost. 3. 67% of stock fuel/timing till 10 PSI of boost. These are power modes. 5 will given instant timing across the full range of boost where all other sublevel will not. this is the best sublevel to use for MPG while even towing. 4. Some extra fuel and timing given at 0 boost. 5. Full fuel and timing given at 0 boost. So if you trying to control heat then you change main level but keep your sublevel high. (1x5, 2x5, 3x5, 4x5, 5x5) being main level controls maximum fuel and timing where sublevel only changes when you get it. But still the funny part is no matter what level to use to tow your RIGHT FOOT is what makes heat. Like I said you can shut off the Edge Comp and still never change the EGT's on bit climbing a hill. Because the Edge Comp goes off the power is lost so you foot drops more to hold speed and EGT climb right back up. Once again its about slowing down...

Might be time to consider a fan clutch. There really isn't a test for it other than put a load on the truck make it climb a steep hill. Since I've got all these steep forestry roads I normally hear it in a short period of time after starting my way up the mountain. Got to admit it sounds wicked to hear the fan kick in at 15-25 MPH climbing steep mountain roads...

Side note...Since you coming my way and going to pass my place you better stop in and let me look at that beast. Also take my phone numbers down from the 911 listing before you set out because I'd be more than willing to try and bail you out if your in my neighborhood.

MPG wise 55 MPH is best... But for climbing grade I would drop 1 gear kick the RPM's back to 2,000 and hold if you can if not the drop another gear and kick RPM's back up 2,000 RPM. Keep repeating till you control your temps. Yes it might be necessary to drop all the way down to 25-35 MPH. Follow the truckers lead... The crawl over grades sometimes as slow as 15-20 MPH... I fall right in behind and follow them along. Did you pull the radiator out and physically look at the face? This below is a instant fail!

First off... SLOW DOWN! I never tow any faster than 55-60 MPH being that 99% off all trailer tires are rated for 65 MPH so its best to stay below this speed. (Refering to your pic of the speedo at nearly 67 MPH!) As for me I got to tow over 6-7% grade lasting from 2-3 miles to 7-9 miles long. Never have problem with engine temp as long as I.... 1. Keep my speed below 60 MPH 2. Watch the pyrometer and down shift and slow down if it rises above 1,000*F. If I have to down shift again and hold again at 2K RPM's Another thing what is your radiator face look like? is it caked with engine oil and dirt? Is your fan clutch functional? Can you hear the fan lock up? It should sound like a turbo prop plane taxing to take off. Is you radiator internally plugged up? How about the thermostat? Wow! I just got back from a trip to Ontario,OR and Boise,ID and made 13 MPG on the trip. As for your heat and low mileage I would be looking at drag as being #1 hitter in your problems. Dragging brakes, wheel bearing, anything to cause drag. As for every 5 MPH you rise up from 55 MPH you killing MPG really quick because of your frontal area (wind drag) the more time you can cruise at 55 MPH the better your MPG will be. Wind drag is exponential so from 55 MPH to 65 MPH it doubles from 65 to 75 it doubles again or quadruples from 55 MPH. SLOW DOWN! As for my tires 60 PSI Front axle. 70 PSI rear axle. Trailer ar Load Range D's (65 PSI) crossing the scales at 16,000 to 17,000 pounds Gross combined weight. Typically towing EGT's is 600-800*F at 55 MPH. Towing over 6% grade at 53 MPH its 1,100*F and steady. My engine coolant rises to about 205*F and steady after the fan locks up. As for my Edge Comp is remains on 5x5... I've NEVER turn it down... But just for fun while your towing turn it completely OFF and watch your pyrometer... You'll find out it doesn't change. Anything over the far end bracket is shut down point (when the comes on!) Time to pull over and let it cool down or slow way down and walk it over the grade at speeds no greater than 25-35 MPH which I've had to do on a few nasty grades around here. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/images/members-rides/mopar1973man/2000-jayco/blackcanyon11.jpg All my RV specs... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/27-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs Oh just for fun... Some of the grades around here are really steep! My truck hauls heavy for a living...

045 should be the key number...

Exhaust braking on a automatic is no more than accelerating at 50-55 PSI of boost. Same amount of force should be applied as a braking force. I know ol' CajFlynn has a lockup controller on his 01 Dodge and had (past tense) exhaust brake on it till it wore out. So it would be a good idea to upgrad the input shaft before using exhaust brake.

Like you said Luan panelling is very thin stuff. The big problem is this grab bar has to be capable of holding weight while fastened to Luan panelling. So to keep if the ripping apart I would either increase the size of the bases or carefully open up the wall and add a full length stud. But even on the increase size the bases you'll still be pulling hard on the upper fasteners almost like you need a good size backing plate on the other side of the wall. I'll keep thinkin'

Hospitals are very expensive places to stay... :spend:I can think of better places...:hyper:So what happened?

If they are torqued properly there is absolutley no need for lock-tite. Not to mention the blue lock-tite would most likely burn away in the extreme temp of the exhaust where anti-sieze will loose its oil but the plating will remain.

Also got to remember with the A/C on you dumping all your cab heat over the top of the intercooler warming the intake air even more. I typically see better MPG with the A/C on than with it off because heat factor. It small jump but its there. My last few high marks have been down with temps at 70-80*F...

Is there vacuum up to that point? If you separate the coupler and put your finger over the connectors is there vacuum? Then I would check at the control in the dash is there vacuum there?

Make sure to use lots of anti-seize...

Personally I would ohm those wires back to the ECM and verify there is no breaks in the wires. Double check the contacts in the ECM and ECM plug too. Worst case it would the ECM failed internally. But I would still try to get that verified with DRBIII tool at a Dodge Dealer.

Sounds like a thermostat change is in order...

Look closely the red in mine is the vacuum motor near the trans hump. The yellow is the one up on the firewall.