Mopar1973Man

SuperChips should be a boost fooler anyways like a Smarty. So there is no need for a boost fooler. But you'll need to get a adjustable boost elbow so you can increase the boost of the turbo (This is for manual truck with a HX35W Turbo). If you got a HY35W Turbo (Automatic) then you would use a J Hook to control the wastegate.

Speed variance is from wrong sized tires. Scan Gauge should be calibrated to the GPS not the speedo. Mine does the same thing in the 02 Dodge after 65 MPH. Speedo = 65 - GPS = 65.5 - SGII = 66 Speedo = 70 - GPS = 71.0 - SGII = 71 But there is a slight 0.5 MPH offset and the SGII is calibrated to the GPS not the speedometer.

Must not of bled it out right and have air bubble caught in the system. You must remove the entire htdrualic system to bleed it properly. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/54-hydraulic-clutch-master-and-slave-replacement Yes you can buy them separately.

If you pulling the trans out to deal with one part I would get a full rebuild kit anyways...

HX35W turbo would be a nice upgrade but won't change power at all just reduce EGT's a bit.But now a tuner like a Smarty (65 HP), Edge Comp (120 HP), Edge Juice (120 HP), Quadzilla XLT (65 HP), Power Puck (65 HP), Quadzilla Adrenaline (180 HP) will actually change power. But adding any kind of fueling change I highly suggest gauges if you don't already have them.

Yea... Water pumps are simple job to do on a Cummins.

Welcome to the family. I'm more of the type of person to do the work myself knowing that I done the work to the best of my abilities. So if you not sure of what going on or how to fix it... Please, Please, Please ask lots of questions we'll be more than happy to help out. Maybe if you talk to family members enough you might someone close by willing to help you out.

What happened?

Sound like you guys and gals did ok? :shrug:I'm without TV so news of other areas is by word of mouth.

Good to hear its running again...

Raptor 100 no modification are needed as far as I know...

Put the truck on the scales and find out.

Piece of rubber radiator hose and a hose clamp? (Redneck solution)

Time to check error codes and fuel pressure...

That's weird... Even hitching up my trailer the overload springs come close but don't touch.

Check out a 2002 Dodge Ram and you find that the stops are rubber coated. Strange though my truck NEVER hits the stops unless it loaded plum full of firewood then you might hear the helpers bang on the stops now and then. I'm just a little 2500...

That why I don't go for exact weight I go for pressure at running RPM's. (1,200-1,500 RPM) Because I don't jump in the truck and idle around... I drive the truck. So I charge the system to give me opimial pressures at driving conditions typically just a few extra ounces needed to get that effect.Another tidbit of study work. When we typically charge the system you have the controls set for MAX A/C and fan to high. Well guess what?! When you turn the fan to low the pressures fall. So once again double check you pressures for your working conditions. Because every time you compressor cycles out the efficency is lost. Since the compressor stops the lo side rises (warms) and the hi side falls (cools) so now when the compressor kick back in it needs to recover and then most likely cycles out again. This why I typically charge a bit more and bit higher in pressures.

Video and cameras are also very handy tools too. If you get lucky and get a photo or video of the vehicles or people it can be used to track them down. As for me I'm starting Open Carry more often. As for weapons I typically have a pistol or a rifle close by at all times. I've even joined a forum of Idaho Carry (Open or Concealed) As for the Idaho neighborhood its OK for the time but there is a few bad seed around here and I see the hand writing on the wall and know that when they get desperate they will steal just about anything from firewood, equipment, trailers, vehicles, you name it. So typically I keep everything locked up around here every night. Another neat thing here! I've installed doubled key sided deadbolts in both buildings. So if you think you going to break in and come out the front door think again. Unless you have the key the door is not going to open for you. Yes I might sound paranoid but after living in Los Angeles, California for 20 years and being broke into, car vandalized, personal property stolen you tend to never change or trust anyone. Like I'm already planning on fencing off the property, adding a gate that will be locked. I realize it not much but it will keep the honest people honest and give Diesel "The Dog" a chance at getting to the fence before the intruder.

Need to check both error codes and fuel pressure. Very few codes actually trip the light...

My little Star 9mm... Mostly used for the 4 leggers around here but always kept near me for the 2 leggers when I make it to the Big city. Yes I open carry and conceal carry as well. No. This is not the only firearm I've got but this is my favorite.

Here is something from another forum at... http://www.idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=10173 It about the 13 rules of gunfighting everyone should know.

System is low on freon what it sounds like. Sandsen Compressors in their service manual that a compressor should not cycle more than 3-4 times a minute more than this and clutch damage can occur. So I would highly suggest you get gauges on there and check it out. When I typically recharge a A/C unit I don't worry about weight as much as I worry about pressure on both hi and lo side. The lo side I typically look for 35-40 PSI and hi side I look for 250-275 PSI. Then once everything is stable I kick the throttle up to 1,200 - 1,500 RPM's to check the pressures again. If the pressure drop below 30 PSI on the low side I add more freon to get the compressor stay going at 35 PSI at road RPM's. What good is it to have the compressor pull the pressure down and have the compressor cycling while your driving but holding solid when your at a stop? Remember the lower the lo side pressure the colder the output from the dash. The low pressure switch is installed in the system to prevent the evaporator from getting down to freezing point so the low pressure switch will drop the compressor to allow the temperature to rise then lock again. (Typo the marks are suppose to be 35*F and 40*F)

My buddy down the road has a car trailer that got 2 batteries in a steel box lined with rubber. The batteries are use for the 8K pound winch, lighting, and trailer brakes (break away).

Oh thank, you thank you, thank you!!! More SAE documentation of diesel engines... You good to go with SAE docs! I'll get this moved to the library very very soon!

Wastegate arm only moves a small amount...